WINCH MOUNT QUESTION

JSJJ388

JSJJ388

GREEN GREMLIN
Joined
Aug 31, 2016
Location
HAMPTONVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA
Slowly putting my winch set up together. Ive got the winch and controls. Couple of questions. My front bumper has a hitch reciever and I see some winch mounts that slide into the hitch, are these any good? Otherwise I can just weld/bolt the winch plate to the top of my bumper correct? Also I would like to run a inside control switch and power kill switch. A two way spring loaded switch should work(in, off, out)?

Winch is an old Ramsey 9000 lb, controls are Warn 4 solenoid set up.

Here is the bumper its going on
 

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Last edited:
The answer to all your questions are yes.

Yes receiver, although best for lighter winches and the direct ability to store and use in the rear hitch. Also keep in mind some situations arise that dont allow it to be inserted after the fact. PLAN AHEAD.

Welding to bumper works with proper technique and design. Just like anything else. You'll want some bracing and a good fairlead mount. Incorporating something that does both makes good packaging.

Momentary toggles work great. Just no cheap junk. It doesn't pull the load the winch sees but it does have to handle the circuit to do the job. A continuous load rated fuse or breaker would be highly suggested for an interior mount to protect the circuit.

The first question and the most important one, is one you didn't ask? You may already know or assume but don't skip it. Is this bumper mounted and going to do the job. Plenty of bumpers will do fine for a impact or incidental protection. Few where designed with the intent to be loaded in a pull. Much less pulled in various angles of approach. You need multiple tie ins on different plains to effective mount to that unibody.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
The answer to all your questions are yes.

Yes receiver, although best for lighter winches and the direct ability to store and use in the rear hitch. Also keep in mind some situations arise that dont allow it to be inserted after the fact. PLAN AHEAD.

Welding to bumper works with proper technique and design. Just like anything else. You'll want some bracing and a good fairlead mount. Incorporating something that does both makes good packaging.

Momentary toggles work great. Just no cheap junk. It doesn't pull the load the winch sees but it does have to handle the circuit to do the job. A continuous load rated fuse or breaker would be highly suggested for an interior mount to protect the circuit.

The first question and the most important one, is one you didn't ask? You may already know or assume but don't skip it. Is this bumper mounted and going to do the job. Plenty of bumpers will do fine for a impact or incidental protection. Few where designed with the intent to be loaded in a pull. Much less pulled in various angles of approach. You need multiple tie ins on different plains to effective mount to that unibody.
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Thanks for the response. Good to know that either mount is ok when done properly. If I do an interior switch I'll run a fuse. The bumper is welded to the unibody as well as to plates inside the rail. I assume this should be enough?

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JSJJ388 said:
Thanks for the response. Good to know that either mount is ok when done properly. If I do an interior switch I'll run a fuse. The bumper is welded to the unibody as well as to plates inside the rail. I assume this should be enough?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
If its all tied in properly you should be okay Joel. For your set up, use a receiver mount for now and have the regular remote always available rather than hard wired switches. You'll have to buy the receiver mount, it'll be easier than making it.
 
R Q said:
If its all tied in properly you should be okay Joel. For your set up, use a receiver mount for now and have the regular remote always available rather than hard wired switches. You'll have to buy the receiver mount, it'll be easier than making it.
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Thanks Richard. I was thinking a receiver moit would be easier. I have a regular remote to use just want the option to work from inside.

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I just would hang mine from the door mirror.
I have had both. In hind sight the cool in cab switch was more of a pain. Sometime being outside was needed to watch the cable or get things safely under tension.
 
I have both remote options. I can plug the remote in outside so someone else can use it. I also removed the cover and hard wired a cut up extension cord to the remote wires on the solenoid. I ran the extension cord into the cab and put a good quality toggle switch in a plastic project box that radio shack used to sell for electronic projects. The box is velcro'd to the center console. If I want to run it myself I un Velcro it and I can hold and operate it with my right hand and still grab the shifter if needed.

I also use a heavy duty continuous duty solenoid to switch the positive battery cable going to the winch, using a second toggle switch on the dash. That way it can't be accidentally activated, or if the winch solenoids stick while I'm winching I can cut power as a backup.

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Thanks for all the input yall. As soon as I get the head rebuilt on the jeep since it decided to blow the headgasket friday, Ill put the winch on.
 
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