Winch Quick Disconnects

obxbronco

obxbronco

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2008
Location
Elkin, NC
My fire dept just bought some new winches and they don't have the quick disconnects plugs with, how hard is to use the cables that came with the winches and add a quick disconnect plug to it? our trucks are wired for the disconnects.
 
You can buy them in I kit at northern tool or any golf cart dealer they just push on

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Bhudgins said:
You can buy them in I kit at northern tool or any golf cart dealer they just push on

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are u talking about the actual kit? Or just the connectors? Was hoping to get just the connectors.
 
You should be able to remove the winch end of the disconnect from the old winch cables. The should be a compression connection, usually a grub screw of some sort.
 
The connectors the ones at northern tool are warn so they are like 50$ for two but a golf cart dealer or fork lift dealer should have them for a couple bucks a piece

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Any forklift dealer will have them. The sb 175 in grey or red is fine, maybe 10 bucks a piece , you will need two, I run them on both Jeeps, very handy
The SB175 is commonly used on 24v forklift applications , they do not rust and very tough.
 
You can find the Chinese Anderson 175 connectors on eBay.. I bought 6, put one f/r on the Jeep, one on my jumper cables, one on my winch.. now I don't pop my hood to jump a vehicle (-: I soldered mine and added heat shrink for the professional look. Also, the connectors don't work well if they get submerged in mud before connecting. Bonus: if your winch is on a cradle and you make a set of jumpers you can use it on any vehicle with the jumpers.
 
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Awesome thank u guys. What I'm wanting to do is use the cables that came with them and just add the connectors.


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You will not lose any length, probably gain 2 inches. Pic for reference, I keep them tucked in the grill when not needed. They are a great emergency disconnect.
 
just make damn sure you use a good hammer crimp or hydraulic crimp tool, and heat shrink the lugs after crimping. squeezing with a pair of pliers to crimp lug to cable ain't gonna cut it.

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Blkvoodoo said:
crimp owns solder, been proven time and again
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Maybe for mechanical strength, but solder wins for conductivity to reduce amp draw and heating.
 
What solder is sufficient for that gauge of wire?


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jeepinmatt said:
Maybe for mechanical strength, but solder wins for conductivity to reduce amp draw and heating.
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too easy to get a cold joint with solder i have learned

I argued this same thing with a friend several years ago and i was on the solder side, until he showed me how easy it is to get a cold joint

crimping has its problems as well, most of them have to do with how the crimp is formed and the size of lug and compression of crimp lug on the cable/wire

he was in aviation ground power back up systems at the time, showed me the cross sections of several soldered and crimped joints they used for training. everything they did had to be inspected and certified by FAA, everything had to be crimped

changed my mine on the deal and i've yet to have a failed crimp lug on any of the dozens of forklifts i have repaired since because of his instruction

as stated, a proper crimp will work well in most environments, sealing it with sealing heat shrink makes it even more so.

i'm probably not gonna change any minds, and i'm ok with that
 
Junkyard Dog said:
I crimp then solder.
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Ditto. I bought my connectors on Amazon, they were pretty cheap, but obviously knock-offs of the good Anderson connectors. The connectors hold up fine but the rubber covers do not fit well and tend to fall off.
 
Good fawking luck getting a cable that big to flow solder. You're more likely to set the insulation on fire, then get a stress riser at the top of the solder joint where the cable starts to break.
 
I've had pretty good luck getting solder to flow. I sometimes drill an ⅛" or so hole in closed end and solder from that end as not to melt insulation. I haven't had any problems with the solder crimp method but I by no means know shit about the pros or cons. I just do it that way cause I figured conductivity had the be pretty good like that.
 
Yes crimping with a proper tool is better. You can solder them and not get a cold joint if you have steady hands. If you pre tin the cable you know it's solid. If I had known hydraulic crimpers were that cheap, I'd have gone that route for speed. I like to quench the bigger lugs so I don't have to hold it steady for so long (which may cause a cold joint but what is visible looks like a nice joint. Cold joints look grainy and dull. All the wiring repairs I do are soldered and you won't change my mind on that, especially on trailers and things exposed to elements. Yes crimps are the de facto standard in the industry, but mainly for speed. I've yet to have any come backs over any wiring repairs I've done, and have seen far more bad crimps than good ones on other people's repairs. I'll omit the twisted wires with wire nuts and twisted wires with electrical tape. Or solid wire in automotive applications.
 
The big thing for a crimp connector is to use an antioxidant compound like noalox. Soldering makes for a good electrical connection but any form of compression connectors has advantages. Not saying that a solder connection will likely fail but a compression connector is less likely. The antioxidant compound is key though.
 
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