wiring in dual batteries...

I dont know about tiny ass...

they are mounted in a rear wheel well to act as a counter weight and weigh ~75lbs, or at least used to be ~3 years ago.
 
Guy I know at work is running Mark Martin's old battery he got from Roush - no more than 25 lbs.

7 1/2" L x 5 1/4" wide x 7" tall seems pretty darn small to me. ;)

We ran a yellow top in the Modified 4 car I crewed for, but mainly because we weren't running an alternator.
 
any reason a battery tray has to be metal?

the stock one in mine is pretty good sized...but I had some scrap plywood around that I figured I could make a bigger tray to mount the to current one...

the weight would still be held by the stock one...but I could put some corner brackets to keep the batteries in place plus I could now put a battery tie-down (since they would both hang off the edges of the stock tray)...

Greg
 
one more wiring question...

my first instinct is to think it doesn't matter, as long as I'm not using an isolator...

in order to not worry about wire length, can the positive of one and the negative of the other be the ones connected to the truck?

REALLY rough sketch here...of what I'm thinking...is the pic OK? or do I need to go from both terminals on one, to both terminals on the other, then to the truck?

Thanks.
Greg
 

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proposed is the best way yes, just besure you have both pos posts connected and both neg posts connected too each other.

the way you show in your pic is actually the BEST way to do it, keeps both batteries in the charge and draw loop, instead of one being drawn and charged more than the other ( it really does make a differance )
 
Blkvoodoo said:
proposed is the best way yes, just besure you have both pos posts connected and both neg posts connected too each other.

the way you show in your pic is actually the BEST way to do it, keeps both batteries in the charge and draw loop, instead of one being drawn and charged more than the other ( it really does make a differance )
Click to expand...


yep
 
So could I do this same thing on my nissan frontier to help power a bunch of off road lights? Ive got 4 150w lights on the roof and they really suck up juice. I want to put a couple more on my grill guard and a couple pointing to the side and back on the roof rack too for surf fishing. The ones pointing sideways wouldnt need to be 150w, just enough to light up the area around my trucks for tying fishing rigs and setting up camp, etc. I would have the 4 150w lights, 4 more weaker lights on the roof and two more lights on the grill guard. Id like to be able to use the weaker lights on the roof for a few minutes at a time without the motor running. Would this work if I could find a place to put the battery?
 
I'm surprised nobodys mentioned a dual battery isolator...

The alternator charges both batteries, but isolates one battery when the vehicle is off. Incase you leave your lights or radio on, you still have a battery to crank the truck. The alternator then begins to charge the dead battery. Don't know how they work, but I had one on my CJ a few years back and it worked great.

Don't know if it allows the use of both batteries for starting or not, but works well to isolate one incase there is an excessive draw on the current somewhere...


Rob
 
rockcity said:
I'm surprised nobodys mentioned a dual battery isolator...
The alternator charges both batteries, but isolates one battery when the vehicle is off. Incase you leave your lights or radio on, you still have a battery to crank the truck. The alternator then begins to charge the dead battery. Don't know how they work, but I had one on my CJ a few years back and it worked great.
Don't know if it allows the use of both batteries for starting or not, but works well to isolate one incase there is an excessive draw on the current somewhere...
Rob
Click to expand...

AN isolator in this case would be pointless really as the dual set up is used for starting primarily.

Dual battery set up with an isolator would be an ideal set up for a winch, or extra lighting even a high amp stereo setup. something where the battery load is higher than alternator input but seperate from the vehicle operations.

I think Chip Price has an isolator set up on his Jeep (w/ multiple batteries) for running camping stuff and the Ready Welder as needed.
 
Greg Slade was talking to me about the setup in his...some type of isolator/switch with several positions...

1. both batteries on
2. one battery on
3. one battery on, and the other tied to the ignition switch

~$180 or so...didn't look at it, but he said it had lights to show which mode it was on, etc...

Greg
 
OK...one more (I'd like to say one last, but we'll see) question...

I spent some time at battery aisle at AutoZone...looking for options to attach the second cables...

I've heard discussion of using the marine style terminals that have an extra post on the top...

I know that normal studs have a lot of of contact area...but the side post batteries are normally just attached with a bolt...

using those two examples...is it possible to just attach to the nut/bolt that clamps the main cable onto the posts?

I found 12" 2GA battery cables...with clamps on one end and just terminal rings on the other...

usually the other end of a cable (ground end or starter end) isn't a very big connector, which is another reason I figured it may work...

I'd just rather ask a bunch of people that have dealt with this kind of stuff instead of the guy at the parts counter that just wants to ask me year/make/model first...

Thanks.
Greg
 
Dunno what your buget or time constraints are, check here for what you are looing for. GOOD stuff and relitivly cheap and a MUCH better value than the crap at 'Zone or AutoHack

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=103&page=1

best methid is to crimp cables to the terminals then seal with heat shrink tubing (also looks more professional) crimp tool can be had at Tractor supply, possible even Northern as well. a bit pricey, but you'll use it again to make cables for you winch and or trailer.

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=1027&page=1 I use this one at work for 36v and 48v connectors and have also used it for battery terminals on my old truck.
 
actually, I can get some cables made locally if needed...

I'm just wondering if the method I mentioned would work...

the ends of the cables I have right now aren't just single big cables...there are a couple wires coming off each one...

I was hoping I could leave the stock cables "as is" and just attach to the second one...

would it not work to connect to the terminal as I mentioned?

Greg
 
The tin crimped end terminals on pre made wiring is weak at best (AZ junk) each connection made this way sure it'll work, but over time will corrode/oxidize and create resistance, which causes voltage/power loss.

CLEAN tight sealed connections are the most reliable, and the longest lasting (read: no mulligans at less than opportune times)

A few years ago, I had the use of and industrial AMP meter, I tested how much amperage my Toy pulled using the winch and also using the Starter to climb a hill. During the test, I MELTED the battery cable end from an AZ battery cable (+ cable to starter) Starter pulled 200amps and then quit pulling because the end melted.

How many amps you 'spose a diesel engine pulls on crank when it it cold out and the grid is glowing as well ? something to think about.
 
gotcha...

my father-in-law can get me some custom made heavy duty copper cables from the shop at Interstate Batteries...the ones that were described earlier as o--o-- (so battery to battery to truck)...

my concern is just that neither the pos or neg cable of the truck has just the single monster (0/1 gauge?) cable coming off of it...they both have another 1-2 smaller wires...

Greg
 
the "1-or 2 small singles" ARe simply additional; taps for direct battry connections. I personally dont like them, I want EVERYTHING fused...but I am a cranky electrician like that.

By the way, couldnt agree more with the Del City recommndation. I deal with those guys (in various locations) on a daily basis at work, they are great! generally knowledgable and have excellent quality parts.
 
My high-amperage (starter, winch) terminals on the battery are basically marine terminals, wingnut and all. works fine.
 
Rich said:
My high-amperage (starter, winch) terminals on the battery are basically marine terminals, wingnut and all. works fine.
Click to expand...

the winch on my TJ is hooked to the main terminals of my battery...but the accessories are hooked to the extra marine style terminals of the blue top...

the single cables on my D350 are 2/0 gauge...:D

do I need to keep that large of a cable when wiring the duals?

new cables will be made on Monday...got the batteries set in place today, just need to cut down the threaded rod and made a hold down to run between the two:

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Greg
 
I made these up from 1 gauge cable, heat shrink from NAPA and clear covered ground 1 gauge from Advance. Got the crimpping tool on line somewhere. Use a hammer to crimp, less than $20.00 fer it. 140A isolator from JC Whitney.
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