WJ knuckle swap on XJ

JTwthaXJ

JTwthaXJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2007
Location
Raleigh
I have spent many hours researching this and numerous hours in the JY. I have a set of WJ knuckles with the akebono calipers (that I have ground to clearance my Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels.) I know about the spacers that I need and the parts that have to be relocated like the sway bar end links, the track bar bracket, and removing the steering stabilizer; but my question is should I go with the chevy or dodge 1-ton TRE for OTK steering? Where can I get DOM tubing from for a decent price? And where can I get threads for things like the TREs cut? I have checked with a couple of different places for steel and couple of places for machine work and everyone recommends me to somewhere else.... Until then my DD is out of commission. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.... I decided to go ahead and tackle this project because my front hubs were going bad and I only wanted to tear the front end down once. :driver:
 
We have done this a ton of times. I machine the tie rods and have tubing in stock if needed. Let me know if I can help out. I can ream your knuckles for the Chevy ends as well as make the links.

Give me a shout if I can help.

Andy
 
I would like to try building this in the shop at the house if I could, is there anywhere around Raleigh where I can get DOM for a decent price. I appreciate the offer... www.complete4x4.com has the best price that I have seen on DOM thus far, but I would have to have it shipped here.
 
No biggie. I can match their price on tubing no problem. I have friends running back and forth to raleigh all the time. I will be seeing some guys in 2 weeks if that helps.

Andy
 
Zubz, when you did the OTK setup with Chevy 1-ton ends are the parts numbers that you used the ES2026R and the ES2027L? I think that they are the ends for the draglink on Chevys, but I want to use them for the draglink and the tierod. I am trying to stay away from the inverted T setup, stick with the Chevy ends and not have the draglink connected directly to the tierod. I am looking at using 1.25" round DOM with .25" wall for the tierod and the draglink, and making the 1.25" with .375" wall for the trackbar. I have the RE1600 trackbar on at the moment and it is still too long until I get a little more lift... You may have a deal on the DOM then.
 
No problem on the DOM. If you want to tap it them I would use 1.25"x.375" for the steering. If you want to use inserts go with 1.5x.250. I have both.

No problem on the track bar, I have pieces threaded and then we bend them.

I typically use the ES2010 L and R but the 2026 and 2027 will be fine. They are just alot longer and more prone to bend from past experience.

Andy
 
What size will the holes in the knuckles for the tierod and draglink and pitman arm need to be drilled out to? And then what size reamer? Is it best to weld all spacers in place or is bolting them in and torquing to spec. good enough? I have heard of people going either way on that.... Would prefer to have it welded.
 
5/8" hole, 7* tapered reamer.
I would def weld them in......no way I would just bolt them.

Andy
 
Zubz, the 5/8" hole and the 7* taper are for the es2010s right? I have limited access to a shop here on campus, so I am trying to get whatever I can done here when I am not at work or in class. And the spacer for the caliper bracket should be the same thickness as the hub spacer right? I was going to have both made from the same piece of material, 1/4" thick. I appreciate all your help...
 
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