Wood splitter build

lockedup5

overcompensating underachiever
Joined
Jan 30, 2008
Location
Burke County (Hildebran)
I know this doesn't exactly fit in here but it's kind of an interesting build and thought others might enjoy it.

First of all I know if I had to buy everything just for this build I'd be better off just buying one from Northern Tool or some place because I'd have more in materials than a new complete one. That's why I've been collecting free/cheap metal for this for a while. I also picked up a free hydraulic cylinder. If the cylinder doesn't work out the way I planned I'll be into this thing way to much money wise so I'm hoping it will work. I already had the wheels/tires and axle also. As far as the engine I've got a few from 8-13 hp but would only consider the Honda 11 and 13hp I have but I think they would be over kill and burn too much fuel. I opted to buy a 5hp briggs from this guy in Old Fort off craigslist. It's a nice engine and he also gave me my tongue metal, an old pump for pattern, return hose, Hyd. filter base and half of my love joy coupler which all this saved me quite a bit of money. I ended up giving him $60 instead of the $40 he wanted since he gave me so much.

As of now I'm about $385 into this thing and that consists of:
-1053 haldex/Barnes pump 13.6gpm-$160
-valve control $90
-lovejoy parts $23 he saved me $13 w/ the part he gave me
-1'' hose barb $3
-tongue coupler $15
-Other fittings

All I know I have left to buy is the hoses and a few bolts. I ended up saving $30 by building my own pump to motor mount which wasn't to hard.

I've done quite a bit of studying to make this thing right but I may have already made a mistake and was hoping someone would give me a little insight. I bought my pump a Haldex 1053 13.6gpm knowing it took a min. 6hp to pull it and the guy at Northern tool said 5hp should do it. So I bought it and am now having second thoughts. I'm thinking I need to exchange it for a 11gpm which calls for only 5hp or use one of my larger engines. Neither pump is more powerful than the other only the 13.6 gpm is faster. And that is only like 1'' per second. What would you guys do if you were me?
I got started on it this weekend and got a little done. I got my return, filter, and filler fittings welded in. I capped of the ends of my hydraulic tank/axle tube and welded my axle to it. I'm hoping to get this thing done pretty quick but I don't have alot of time to work on it. I'll up date as I get things done.

Here is a few first pics of supplies basically.
 

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Looks cool and sound like it should save you alot even if you haft to buy a ram. I'm no Hydraulics expert but if your only putting 5hp to the 6hp pump wouldn't it operate at around 11 GPM too or no?
 
I'm not sure about any numbers but one I help build for my uncle ran a two stage pump, for a faster traverse. Yours going to stand up or lay down?
 
Looks cool and sound like it should save you alot even if you haft to buy a ram. I'm no Hydraulics expert but if your only putting 5hp to the 6hp pump wouldn't it operate at around 11 GPM too or no?
Even if I have to buy a ram I'll probably have around $650 in it and yes that's alot better than $1600 for the one at NT that's pretty crappy. To answer your question about the pump I don't really know. That's what I'm wanting to find out. I'm thinking it may bog the 5hp motor down. If someone knows the answer let us know.
I'm not sure about any numbers but one I help build for my uncle ran a two stage pump, for a faster traverse. Yours going to stand up or lay down?
The pump I have is a two stage. 13.6gpm @650psi and 2.9gpm@2500psi. My other option is a 11gpm@650psi and 2.9gpm@2500psi so there is no power difference just volume/speed. The way I understand it is you change you splitter tonnage w/ the size of cylinder you use. the one I have is a 4'' bore w/ 2'' shaft which makes for a faster return speed. The way it figures I'll have around 37,699 lbs push force and 28,274lbs retract at a max output of 3000 psi from pump. If anyone's wondering how I figured this just go to the Surplus Supply website and you can figure it there. This may come in handy on someone's hydro steering project.
As far as design I'll be able to use it both ways but I will only use it upright just cause that's what I like.
 
Call this dude : Ryan at Hollar Tractor in Hickory 828-256-2764
He's very knowledgeable in this field.
I would think the larger unit would be better suited to the size bore of your cylinder. But I'd be guessing. A twitchy splitter would be scary.
 
Here's what I accomplished todayin a couple hours. I got the I-beam brackets/tongue brackets cut out and welded on and also got the tongue mounted. I also got the motor mount plate welded on drilled and braced up. Things are coming along pretty good. It is taking me longer than I thought but I'm taking my time and having fun. I've included a pic of the splitter I'm modeling it after but I'm having to change things based on the material I've got. The main thing changed is my tank tube is 66'' opposed to 36'' in order to get the hydraulic reserve to 7 gal.
I built the pump bracket over the weekend. It's always fun building something like this when you don't have the right size metal. I'm cutting everything out of scrap and that takes a while.
 

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I got a few things done this week. I got the I-beam cut and brackets made and mounted it, I had to weld together 2 pieces of 4''x1.5'' to make to foot and got it welded on. I pressure tested my tank and had a couple leaks I had to fix. It's times like this I had a TIG machine. I was going to mount my cylinder and found out it has small ports which would make it slow so I went and blew my budget way out of the water and bought a new cylinder. If anyone has a good 4'' x 24'' cylinder laying around let me know I can still take this one back. Other than that I'm ready to mount my cylinder and build my wedge. If anyone has any constructive comments please feel free to let me know.
 

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does it matter if the filter is mounted in the horizontal posistion? I've never seen one that way, I'd add a 90 elbow or street elbow. It would at least make changing it less messy. Did you contact Ryan? I was wondering what his input might be.
 
does it matter if the filter is mounted in the horizontal posistion? I've never seen one that way, I'd add a 90 elbow or street elbow. It would at least make changing it less messy. Did you contact Ryan? I was wondering what his input might be.


You can mount the filter any way you want, I would want to see an indicator on it so I know when to change it. Also I would think at least a 100 micron strainer for that gear pump. How many gallons is your tank? Have you thought about heat issues in constant use?
 
Could always add some 1" flat stock in strips on the sides of the tank for fins to help pull heat off if needed. I guess if you want to split in mid August you could add a cooler w/ fan setup :)
 
Looks good, I don't think the Pump to engine will be a problem. Should just have a little bit less output.
does it matter if the filter is mounted in the horizontal posistion? I've never seen one that way, I'd add a 90 elbow or street elbow. It would at least make changing it less messy. Did you contact Ryan? I was wondering what his input might be.
I didn't call him cause during my research everything called for a 6hp but after reading through the instructions that came w/ it it says 5hp min for both 11 and 13.6 gpm pumps. I'll see how it goes. As far as the pic I just went by the one I'm pattering mine by but I don't think I'll have issues.
You can mount the filter any way you want, I would want to see an indicator on it so I know when to change it. Also I would think at least a 100 micron strainer for that gear pump. How many gallons is your tank? Have you thought about heat issues in constant use?
I didn't have room for a strainer. My tube is only 3-1/4'' deep at my pickup. I just bought the extended two year warranties on my pump and valve and hoping for the best. My tank works out to 6.94 gal. That's a little more the the factory pattern. I'm hoping the 1/2 gal extra will help a little on heat but don't know for sure. Biggest thing on heat is my tank/tube is 3/8'' thick wall. Ya'll think that might cause or help a heat problem? I only split wood when all snakes and bees are gone from the wood pile. October/November is the best time. I like to split it when it's cool 60 degrees max.
Could always add some 1" flat stock in strips on the sides of the tank for fins to help pull heat off if needed. I guess if you want to split in mid August you could add a cooler w/ fan setup :)
No hot weather splitting for me.
 
Looking at the axle placement,(the only part of this I am familiar with) Should the bend not be at the top? Looks as if it's at the bottom. not that this will carry that much weight.
 
yeah it's suppose to be flipped w/ springs under the axle for a trailer. But as far as I'm concerned I hope this thing only rolls from my garage out to the wood pile so it shouldn't matter. But of course I've already got people wanting me to finish it so they can borrow it.haha
 
I guess it's time to update this little build. I got quite a bit done this week. I'm real close to finishing it. I built my wedge this week and it about kicked my ass. It is really hard and agrivating to cut 3/4'' steel w/ a porta band and drill 5/8'' on a pos drill press not to mention the pos bit I had. It doesn't seem to hard to drill 18 holes but when 12 of them were in 3/4'' steel and the other 6 was in 1/2'' it becomes a pretty good job w/o the right tools. Also filling all the big gaps w/ weld that that thick of steel makes when on angles takes alot of time. I probably over killed alot of this build but the way I look at it my grand kids will be using this thing 30 yrs from now.haha. I also got my upper cylinder mounts cut out and welded on. They're 3/4'' thick also.
Thanks to a good friend and fellow wheeler we managed to get the hoses built and installed. It took us about 5 hrs. cause we ran into a couple snags. I positioned my valve I got from norther tool just like alot of factory built splitters I've seen where the lower A port connects directly into the lower port on the cylinder and connected the upper B port on the valve to the upper port on the cylinder. After getting all the hoses built and installed we realised it was detenting on the down stroke so we did alot of research and found out the factory log splitter companies have their vales custom built to detent on the retract stroke. Who knew? And since they are custom built they are high$$$$$ so what I did was lower my B port to the lower port on the cylinder and ran a hose from the lower A port back to the top of the cylinder. Now I have to build a custom lever fulcrum in order for my lever action to match my cylinder action. When I push the lever up I want the cylinder to retract in the detented postition if you know what I mean. This is all kinda complicated and clear as mud but thought it might help someone sometime to know this.
After we finished the lines up we filled it w/ hyd. fluid and fired her up and everything worked great. I was so excited for some reason. After I got it home I had to split my first piece of wood and it did great. It's got plenty of pressure and also has good speed.
So far I'm real happy w/ the build except for the time/money budget which went out the window pretty quick. Now all I have to do is fix my lever up, clean up some welds, build a simple kickstand, and paint it. I can't wait til it's done. So will my wife. She said it would be really nice to see me in the evenings.haha
 

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I gotta admit.That came out nicer than I thought it would.Really nice job on the Wedge.
 
Thanks. Were you concerned about how the wedge would turn out or overall? I was just wondering cause I thought it would turn out pretty crappy since I just used what I had laying out in the field. It has turned out a little better than I thought.
 
Overall, i think its one of the nicest ones i have seen. Its clean looking without all the hoses running everywhere and it looks very easy to work with and move. Good build!
 
It's Finished!!!

Well my little winter project has finally come to an end. Way over budget on time and money. I may have counted some of my materials twice so I'm going to have to refigure but I ended up w/ around $1000 in this thing. Thats about twice what I wanted in it but after I got to doing it it started to turn out a lot nicer/better than I had originally planned but like I said I hope my kids are using it when they are my age. Even at what I have in it I saved about half of what a new factory one would cost and I feel like I have built one alot better than you can buy. I tried it out this evening and split a few large pieces and it performed great. I can't wait to have a few hours to really break it in. Any how here is some pics of the finished project. If anyone has plans to build one of these and has any question feel free to ask me and I'll try to help you. Maybe I can help someone make their project go a little easier.

The picture of the lever is to show the plate I had to build in order to change the fulcrum point of the lever it's self. I had to do this so the direction of the lever and cylinder would be correct. Also it corrected the direction of the detent of the valve.
 

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Thanks everybody. Yes it was way over budget but I wasn't expecting to have to buy the cylinder ($300)cause I have three older ones sitting here and could've made one work probably but I figured the pump and valve was new so I figured what the heck just make the whole system new and it should be trouble free for a long time. Plus I purchased the 2yr extended warranties which costed me more.
A new one like it would cost close to $2000 if you figure in the tax and the hydraulic oil. I'd just bought a used one but you cannot find one.
 
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