WTF do I put my gas tank?

Aggressive1

Aggressive1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2005
Location
Myrtle Beach
I am getting ready to rebuild the rear suspension (finally). The main item that I want to realocate first although not necessarily in the way, is the fuel tank. I thought about just removing it and trashing :flipoff2: but figure the 4.0L might get a little cranky without some gogo juice. I am not sure about the bed (TJ so rear floor) since I will be building a racing seat set up in the back for two kids so they can still ride at places like Uwharrie. I have seen the gas tank lift ideas where you raise the floor a little, but I want to put the winch I have lying around behind the rear bumper so the tank would be in the way. I really only need like a 10 gallon tank but 15 would be better. Anybody have any SIMPLE ideas of what to do? I am sitting at my computer now so can't look at it, but since the axle will be pushed farther back then stock with the new long arms what about a flat tank pushed forward from where the stock tank is??
 
many FJ guys use the Summit Racing "Street Rod" style cells... might be an option for ya.
 
there's a shop in town here (Atlantic Racing) that sells that kind of stuff...

I have a fuel cell (red plastic) around here somewhere that I was gonna use on a air/water intercooler setup...but never got around to it.

I can't remember the size...but I'd say it's 10 gallons or less.

Greg
 
which cell is that gofer?
that is recessed in the floor halfway correct?
I like the ability of retaining the back seat.
 
greg slade said:
which cell is that gofer?
that is recessed in the floor halfway correct?
I like the ability of retaining the back seat.
Click to expand...

RCI 2161A
The bottom of the tank is flush with the top of the frame.
Originally I was going to sink it to the bottom of the frame use a 45 deg filler to hook it up to the stock filler.
But because we have leaf srpings the shackles got in the way so I had to raise it up for clearance. if you run links out back I would sink it as far down as possible. And yep I like having the back seat also it's not used too often but it does come in handy with the kids sometimes.
You can see I built an enclosure for the cell that has a lid allowing access to the filler. Not the most convient setup but it works okay once you get used to it.
 
You might have to just flat out, build a new custom tank with what room you have after everything is all said and done. I'm having to do that with my buggy.

Rob
 
Yeah, I am thinking that's gonna be the best way to do it so I don't have to raise the floor and I can put the tank infront of its current location and build it to the size that'll work the best. The hard part is I can't tig weld so I will have to design and cut and have somebody put it together for me.
 
From the suff I've seen on USJeeps that you build this should be no problem for you. I don't know if you have a body lift or not but even if its one inch that's a lot of unused space to go up with it. Build a giant rectangle cell and mount it to the frame, put a decent sized sump in it at the back since it will be fairly flat so you don't have fuel starvation issues. I've got a 3" body lift on mine (I know you RC'rs aren't down with that) and that's how far up I raised my stock gas tank. Tigg'ns like Migg'n, just slow down and practice, practice, practice. I think it's easier with the foot control and the welds are way nicer lookin :) . The one I use at work will crank something like 480A so it's sort of a touchy turned down for small stuff. Better yet, make it out of stainless and use your mig if it's big enough. Pricey but extremely nice! That and you'll need cobalt bits or plasma for your line holes.
 
I can TIG weld!!!!
And mig and stick

I've got the aluminum sitting here in my garage (2 sheets of 4x8).

Plus I've got the fab shop to do it all, shear, brake press, punches, rollers,etc.


Rob
 
SS, I sure can try man, I don't know if I can get access to a Tig, but I have access to a plasma and I run a lincoln 175 with argon mix. So maybe thats enough to put a stainless tank together. Gotta find the stuff though now for a decent price, unless you are offering to build me an aluminum one at a decent price rob :D
 
Well, anything made out of aluminum isn't decently priced. Problem is, if ya build one in the spaces you have, you'll have to supply all the measurements, or get it up here to me so I can take measurements.

A lincoln 175 will be plenty for a SS setup. do you have a DC stick welder?? You can TIG SS with that with the right setup (field tig, AKA scratch start TIG, etc.) Its easy to use, but you cannot control the amps with a pedal, only on the machine after each weld. Works great on SS. I used it quite a bit on my buggy and on job sites to produce X-ray quality welds (for pressure vessels). The setups are cheap (less than $100 w/out regulator or hose that you should already have w/a MIG)

FWI, you don't need cobalt bits for SS. Just don't buy the Home Depot/Lowes bits. Go to an industrial supply (fastenal,grainger, J&L, etc.) and get some jobber bits. Not the long ones (more expensive and the bits wear out anyway and you don't need the longer ones). They are cheap ($$$) and work very well. I've drilled over 500 holes (1/4" dia. in 16ga SS) with one bit in a hand drill (for self tap screws for industrial metal building siding). Just keep speed slow and oil the bit if necessary (probabally not necessary on a thin sheet metal gas tank).

Anyway, you give me some measurements on a tank and I'll give ya a price on building one out of aluminum. Complex design is OK too. don't be simple if ya can make it complex and it work right. Should take about half a day, maybe longer if its complex. It can have rolled sides, bent sides, etc. Its ok. Just let your imagination go with it and I'll be able to fab it. I'm no Jesse James, so don't make it look like a motorcycle gas tank!! LOL

Rob
 
Alright Rob. I will take a look at what I have got and see what design I come up with. If I can find the SS I will go ahead and try it. If not I will get you a design to price. I my spare weekend time building the flat skid, so I haven't had a chance to take a look at it yet.
 
To me it seems the aluminium cracks out at the base of it's welds eventually due to oxidation or where the steel bolts mount through it, especially if it's not treated/alodined. I think SS is worth the extra cost in the long run, SS is basically bulletproof and corrosion proof. While you're at it make the sides and bottom thick so you don't need a skid, just an idea.

I have to drill stainless, inconel, titanium, magnesium, steel and tons of aluminium at work from no. 20 to 9/16. To me the cobalt is worth the price and you're not obsessed about burning up the bit. You do have to use a variable speed drill so you can "feel" the cut :) .

my .02 and I'm done.
 
SSWaters said:
To me it seems the aluminium cracks out at the base of it's welds eventually due to oxidation or where the steel bolts mount through it, especially if it's not treated/alodined.
Click to expand...

Good point - pretty much all the guys I know with an aluminum cell have either had leaks, or have gotten them, from cracks. Most of the time it's drawn back to flex between the 2 mounts...

Just my $.02
 
Its all in the design (and fab), so a good design will net a good tank if fabbed properly.

I've got a brake with multiple dies on it, so braking most of the tank will be a no brainer or a problem to minimize weld area.

You're right about the cobalt bits, they are great on SS. but with the few holes hes got to drill for a SS tank, I don't think its worth the extra $$$ for the bit. Just get a good quality jobber bit and you'll be OK. Heck, I'll even mail you ones we use at work all the time, if ya go with SS. I've got plenty lying around.


Rob
 
Back
Top