XJ no start

RenegadeT

no shirt,no shoes,no dice
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Mar 24, 2005
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I'm looking for a little guidance, where to start checking etc. 1991 XJ/4.0L/AW4. I swapped in a different steering column, pretty sure that is where the problem lies. I drove this with the swapped column for a while though, but it was funky (horn went off randomly, blinkers didnt function properly) . Its a standard non-ABS GM column. First thing that strikes me as weird is that there are 10 wires coming out of the column, 9 on the harness side.
Symptoms: no headlights, no exterior lights, flashers do not flash, but the underdash flasher clicks, no brake lights.
Battery has 12.5V, every underhood fuse has 12.xV on both sides. Some underdash fuses have 12.x volts. 12V at the starter B-terminal.
Wiggling the shifter or ignition/key switch don't seem to do anything.
More later...
 
grounds seem OK. I have continuity between neg. battery terminal and all the grounds I can find...engine block, both ends of the dash/IP bolt thru firewall to engine block strap, steering column mounting bolts.

I can't find a FSM for 91 XJ. I want to hot wire it from under the dash, anyone have any ideas which wires to jump?
I have the following wires going into the steering column ignition switch...
Blue connector: fat BLUE, fat PURPLE, medium YELLOW w/green or blue stripe
Middle black connector: fat RED, fat ORANGE
lower black connector: small gauge PURPLE w/wht and sm. GRAY or BROWN w/ black stripe

Seems like I'm not getting any power thru the ignition switch now
 
Evry fuse under hood in the PDC and the fuseblock inside all checked out good (continuity check). Are there more fuses somewhere else?

hrm. no.

wiring for the switch should be this:

RED -- 12V CONSTANT POWER
YELLOW/GREEN -- STARTER WIRE
BLUE -- 12V IGNITION WIRE BLUE
PURPLE 12V ACCESSORY WIRE

if you haven't 12v on the red wire.. thats part of it if not all of it.

The fuse for the column is in the PDC under hood. Ignition fuse of course. Check it with a test light maybe instead of cont check (presents a draw of a light bulb versus low current testing).

Not really likely but it could be the bulkhead connector got dirty/corroded/poor contact inside
 
man I should delete this thread. I chased the 0.3V all the way back to the positive battery cable terminal end. I ran out before parts store closed and got some ends to solder on, and a new turn signal switch, since the column is all tore apart now :bounce2:
 
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