XJ Overheating Q

Air dam and cooling?

  • Pulled air dam, had issues, no coolant loss, nothing fixed it but louvers

    Votes: 2 50.0%

  • Pulled air dam, had issues, replaced everything and rad and fixed it.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Pulled air dam and had no issues.

    Votes: 2 50.0%
  • Total voters
    4
skinnypedal95 said:
i may be wrong but i heard some 4.0 engines had a water pump that turned backwards. you might have the wrong one on there? :confused:
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YOU SAY WHAT??? OH I WILL BE PISSED IF THIS TURNS OUT TO BE THE PROBLEM ON MINE I WILL FLIP!!:flipoff:
 
I am also following this thread. . . I have new water pump, flushed system, new cap, elec fan and clutch fan, replaced therm, and sensor, still runs HOT on the trail. . .230-245
 
cherokee_kid_03 said:
I am also following this thread. . . I have new water pump, flushed system, new cap, elec fan and clutch fan, replaced therm, and sensor, still runs HOT on the trail. . .230-245
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mine runs hot 24/7! prob getting a 3row rad this week. look @ my thread just posted see if you have any input
 
im following this thread too im changing my rad on my 89 tuesday it has a new pressure bottle cap t-stat and pump and new upper and lower hoses
i guess when i do change the rad i will drill 2 holes 180 apart from each other top and bottom of t-stat to help burping
also will be putting a compressor on the hoses coming from the pressure tank to make sure there is no small clog
 
well my water pump is for a 93 cherokee.. driven by backside belt (flat pulley, no grooves, stamped R i believe, unsure) trouble started after swapping motors, neither the one i put in nor the one i took out, ran hot..but 4 rows of fins were gone off the donor's rad, so head couldve been cracked to begin with..
 
You took the head off and didn't have it checked for cracks?

Also Akelly? I noticed you have an 88. That's the closed system. Have you checked for cracks in your pressure bottle. It's not an overflow. It maintains pressure. If it leaks it will over heat.
 
no, I didn't have the head checked.. just a visual inspection.. it's my DD and machine shop isn't open saturday and i can get another motor for less than a new head.. pressure bottle+cap are good.. radiator pressure tester doesn't fit the screw on cap though :/
 
skinnypedal95 said:
i may be wrong but i heard some 4.0 engines had a water pump that turned backwards. you might have the wrong one on there? :confused:
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Jeep Grand Cherokee water pumps for 2.5L and 4.0L engines made after 2000 have a reverse flow pump. Older models of these engine types don't. To see if your pump is reverse flow, check for an "R" stamped on the pump propeller.
 
hrm.. new pump was identical to old one, and was cooling fine in original vehicle, soooo, i'm going to say its not reverse rotation.. (plus its the one listed for the vehicle)
 
a_kelley said:
hrm.. new pump was identical to old one, and was cooling fine in original vehicle, soooo, i'm going to say its not reverse rotation.. (plus its the one listed for the vehicle)
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i just left the parts store and double checked mine bc of this and for my 92 there is no reverse rotation offered. he even showed me where they offered both clockwise and counter clockwise for a dif vehicle and its clearly noted. so still waitn on the radiator and hope to get it resolved.
 
Matt, would it sound like oil draining into the pan? no external leaks, and not running rough, not losing much water, so i think its leaking into the exhaust port, but then it'd vaporize.. idk, i'll just drop another motor in it i suppose..
 
I have a XJ and of corse mine overheats too. I just read this whole thread and it has a lot of good info.

So far, I've pulled down the hood insulation and I have hood vents coming. I've straight wired the electric fan.

Since the AC doesn't work, I wanna pull the AC crap put another electric fan infront of the radiator. Question is, is there a easy way to pull the ac core outta the front? From what I can see, it looks like you have to pull the whole front end apart. Somebody has to have a trick to gettin this thing out.
 
well, two ways to pull it..

way #1 (right way): remove top radiator support, 4 nuts on front under lip, 3 bolts either side, and two nuts to hold on radiator, electric fan and fan shroud bolts. remove radiator support. then remove both nuts that hold the top AC condensor bracket, then turn bkts off to side, then lift up radiator and slide lower condensor bracket out and drop radiator back into holes in bottom, then cut condensor lines and remove condensor.

way #2: remove grille. grab favorite rotary cutting tool. cut upper and lower brackets, lines, and cut condensor in half to facilitate removal.

autozone sells a AC compressor bypass pulley. I leave the compressor in and put in a pressure switch and put in on board air(needs an inline oiler to keep the compressor alive)..
 
i installed a 3row radiator in mine yesterday. seems to run half the temp it did with the old radiator. no problems so far(fingers crossed) will def keep updated.
 
jweezyferg said:
i installed a 3row radiator in mine yesterday. seems to run half the temp it did with the old radiator. no problems so far(fingers crossed) will def keep updated.
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well drove it around today for about a hr, and never ran over 210. 160 degree thermostat and new 3 row seems to have fixed it
 
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