yotas with chevy springs

jonnyB

jonnyB

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2006
Location
rockwell, NC
whos runnin them on the rear, how many leafs you leave in the pack? what shocks are you runnin? how long of shackles? i just picked up some off a 96 chevy 2wd to put on my 81 yota. these springs have 4 leafs and a VERY thick overload spring, im thinkin about leavin 3 main leafs and the front half of the 4th leaf to help with axlewrap. any suggestions?
 
how many leafs you use depends on how much lift you want.
and how much your rig weights.
if you use stock rears up front use the chevys like they are.
if you use rears plus an add a leaf up front you'll need about
a 1 1/2 spacer to level it out. i made my spacer about 18
inches long to act as an anti wrap or traction bar. works good.



dawg
 
thanks, im guessing you are running stock rears up front. can you use stock steering if you keep the axle in the stock location (not moved forward) with that set up?
 
You cant keep the axle in the stock location using rears up front. The centerpin is foward 2 inches in rear springs.

Stock steering isnt going to work with rears up front. Gonna have to do crossover.
 
what if you moved the hangers/shackles to keep the axle in the stock location? still couldnt use stock steering?
 
You could, but it's easier and better to move the axle foreward to get a better approach angle and do a crossover steering. The crossover steering is also stronger than the old push pull type. It can olny hang with so big a tire before it gives up the ghost.
 
yea if you dont want to do cross over just
use your stock springs with lift shackles.
lock it in the rear and you'll be good to go.
cumminsdiesel has this setup on his truck and
it works awsome.


dawg
 
I have the full chevy pack in the rear and lifted 3" rears up front and I am going to have to use a spacer to level it out.

I had a set of 92 rears I was going to use, which are the same from the front eye to the center pin as my stock front springs
and the rear mounting was going to have to be moved back. since they were about 4 inches longer than my stock springs.

this would have given more flex but would have left the axle in the stock location. I wanted to move my axle forward.

so I opted for the 84 lifted rear mains and some of the other packs mixed in for the front lift. so my front is a total of about four inches over stock and with the stock chevies the rear is about two and a half inches over stock. so I will have to space the back an inch and a half to level it out.

keep in mind my rig has a shell, full incab cage, sliders, and an extra gas tank. so your lift will vary.
 
thanks for all the info. do you have to move the rear shackle hanger down any, or just move it back? im in the process of the spring swap now and it looks like i need to move the rear shackle hanger down about 2 inches as well as back a couple of inches to keep my shackles from being 10" long. also, it lookes like i could use an angled shim to help my driveshaft not be slid out as much, anyone do that? i know i could mess with it enough and figure it out but im tryin to save myself some work.
 
your shackle hanger doesn't have to be moved but to run it in the stock location you will need about and eleven or twelve inch shackle. which isn't ideal it also puts your shackle at a steep angle as well. again this isn't ideal.

if you look at your stock shackle angles. then move them back to acheive appr. the same angle you should be good. keep in mind the shorter the shackle the lower your lift will be. and your shackle must be long enough to allow full suspension compression and extention. otherwise you may bend your springs.

you can run a shim to get it back to a better angle, but it would be better to cut the rear perches off and rotate the rear housing up to the right angle.

also during that process you could make the rear perches a little taller as well to gain some lift if needed.

part of your driveshaft issue is the lift difference. you may have to end up lengthening it to keep it from seperating under full flex or droop while under a load due to the axle wrap and what not.

anything over three inches of lift may require you to lengthen it. it may also be a good idea to put in a rear cv joint if you do have to lengthen it if you can find one cheap enough.

that will help with any vibration issues that could arise. most of the time with three to six inches of lift you don't need one unless your running a crawl box or something.

here is a link for you http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20665
 
one other thing there is about 18 pages of info there so read through it all before you make any dicisions and steer clear of the double shackle idea since it causes side hill and up/down hill unloading issues.
 
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