You can buy rubicon axles from the Dealership?

Macdaddy4738

Macdaddy4738

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
I went to pick up a door handle and some little trim piece I needed from the dealer last night, and we got to talking about random stuff..

I didnt quite hear him, but Im pretty sure he mentioned that you can buy the fully built Rubi axles from the dealership directly? Granted they are probably expensive as hell, but still..

I cant believe this guy is right, thats just crazy.
 
It's just a factory replacement part for a vehicle.

Actually, I just did a quicky google search...

http://www.leeparts.com/jeep_wrangler/mopar_performance/suspension/

$1208.48 for a rear axle
$1324.96 for a front axle

That's really NOT BAD.. Discs, calipers, lockers, 4.10's, and all the brackets, all new parts.. Someone tell me again - why do the Jeepers have such a hard-on for an Explorer axle?
 
Wow, I remember when the rubi's first came out some of the parts guys would try to sell them out the back door for $2,500 a peice. That really is not a bad price for a new complete axle.
 
Not to bad a price for a brand new complete front axle but with the Dana 30 outers on those Rubicon axles its not much of a upgrade. I don't know why jeep didn't put a real dana 44 in the front of them instead of making that retarded dana 30 44 hybrid. The rear is a good price if someone wants a bolt in upgrade from the dana 35 but for me the ford 8.8 is cheaper and stronger.
 
You can virtually buy any piece of the jeep from the dealership, even the tub (although they don't advertise this). I would think coming from Jeeps point of view that is was cheaper just to upgrade to the D44 with 30 outers from a cost standpoint, they probably didn't see the benefit of re-tooling every piece of the assembly.
 
Rich said:
It's just a factory replacement part for a vehicle.
Actually, I just did a quicky google search...
http://www.leeparts.com/jeep_wrangler/mopar_performance/suspension/
$1208.48 for a rear axle
$1324.96 for a front axle
That's really NOT BAD.. Discs, calipers, lockers, 4.10's, and all the brackets, all new parts.. Someone tell me again - why do the Jeepers have such a hard-on for an Explorer axle?
Click to expand...
Cause those are for the stupid JK axles.
You still need to pay the loot to set em up for a TJ or YJ.
So at that point it's a bit pricey.
:D
 
thats not nearly as bad as I figured.

The door handle cost me like 16 bucks, and the little trim piece i needed was like 5 :rolleyes:
 
dan4jeepin said:
The rear is a good price if someone wants a bolt in upgrade from the dana 35 but for me the ford 8.8 is cheaper and stronger.
Click to expand...

Cheaper? Add a selectable locker, gears, new calipers, pads & rotors to a junkyard 8.8, and see what's cheaper.

And stronger? What, one spline on the axle shafts?

How about those paper-thin axle tubes on the 8.8?
 
Rich I know you've had bad luck with the 8.8 tubes but they aren't paper thin. They are bigger and thicker then most all dana44s. The numbers have shown over and over that the 8.8 is stronger then a 44. I put less then 500 dollars into my junkyard 8.8 but like I said buying a stock rubicon axle is a good option for many. Just don't bash those of us running ford axles because you had a bad experience with one.

Ford 8.8
O.D. of tubes: 3.250"
Tube thickness: .250"
[SIZE=-1]
Scout II D44 rear tube
2.75" diameter and .250" wall thickness.

Couldn't find the Tj 44 thickness but I know there was alot of talk about the fact that its no thicker then a dana 35:rolleyes:

[/SIZE]COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating
Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler

Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500

The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)
 
I see 4wd hardware even sells full bolt in D44 axles (supplied from ???) But point is even at that price its not a bad way to upgrade if you don't have the ability or desire to do all the leg work. Pick what gears/locker and bolt it in and your wheeling the next weekend..

I think most of us who truly enjoy wrenching, forget how much time and effort goes into tracking down parts and pieces, fixing booboos, redos, etc.. all to end up in the same place as someone else with a slightly different combo..

As far as the outter knuckle part goes.. its still a 297 joint. If your having ball joint problems well thats says its time to move to somthing bigger, but for many in the 35-36 range then still hold up just fine with some PM..

and Robs ripping off off his wrap bar bracket wasn't an axle problem. A different bracket or a small curved base plate to spread the load out would have prevented that. I think they got the rep they have as they are a fairly easy bolt in, have same bolt circle, acceptable width and are plentiful.. Can you find a D44 that meets all that ? The 8.8 is beffy outside some of its fixable flaws..
 
You can also buy the rubi axles from qtec with alloy shafts, different lockers, and lower gears for about what the dealer sells the stock ones for.


The 8.8 tubes are not stonger bc of wall thickness, its the larger diameter of the tubes. You posted they have .250 wall tubes, but I was pretty sure they were thinner (although still stronger) like .188, the TJ 44s use 35 tubes, so they are also .250 wall thickness. The only weakness of the 8.8 is spinning the tubes in the housing which is easily fixed by welding the tubes to the housing. The rest of the numbers posted speak for themselves. My 8.8 was one of my best upgrades.
 
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