Dana 60 issues

Croatan_Kid

Croatan_Kid

How's your hammer hangin'?
Joined
Nov 4, 2007
Location
New Bern
I posted once a while back about my camber issues with this damned '79 Ford Dana 60. I've been pondering what I can do to fix it and get my camber spot on. Sure, I could get a housing built by Currie or such as the like....that'd be a little costly though. Then I figured I could just have this one re-tubed, but that'd be a little pricey (to a much lesser extent) and I'd have a few weeks of down time. That should take care of my problems and I could get rid of the lower adjustable kingpins and go back to the regular lower caps. I always worry in the back of my mind about the adjustable ones moving on me and causing all sorts of shenanigans. It'd be pretty hard not to go with Reid inner and outer knuckles once I had it apart though....that'd be some serious dough, but ridiculously strong.

I want to do something that will last. I know the initial cost will be high, but it beats wearing out tires at $1000+ a set. When I look at it that way, the savings would be justified after having NOT bought two sets of tires.


From what I've always read, they built them like this for heavy front ends with big blocks and snow plows. The front end of my Silverado weighs 3280 lbs with me in the truck, so apparently that's not quite heavy enough to even it out.



What do you guys think? I'm going to straighten this thing out one way or another. Pun intended :D Please discuss and give any suggestions.
 
If only it were that simple. Those are all for Chevy and Dodge Dana 60s and they use a 6 bolt spindle. Sure, I could re-drill the pattern, but there's always the chance of screwing them up beyond repair. I'm also not sure if the diameters are close enough to work like they should.
 
They're drilled to be used two ways, 180* from each other to either add or subtract camber. 6 bolt spindles only. They have twleve holes in them and won't fit the assemetrical 5 bolt Ford spindles.
 
Nobody else ever run in to a problem like this? Is re-tubing something anyone else would even consider?
 
just have it straightened. Don't re-tube it. I've seen guys take jacks and presses and straighten their housings out, with a little heat too! But, its tedious work and time consuming as its hard to do it spot on the first time.
 
Where would I go for such a procedure?
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Where would I go for such a procedure?
Click to expand...


ECGS should still have the stuff to do it. I know it has been done there in the past.

Call Chase and ask him. It is time consuming but if you take him a torn down housing it should not be horrible.
 
I could always do it at work on our pull test stand. It'll go up about a million pounds :-D. Think that should cover it! Hahaha
 
Tarheel 4WD Center said:
ECGS should still have the stuff to do it. I know it has been done there in the past.

Call Chase and ask him. It is time consuming but if you take him a torn down housing it should not be horrible.
Click to expand...

We can do it at ECGS, If you want to do the reid inner C's the camber and caster could be adjusted when they are welded on also
 
After talking with Lee, I think we've come to the conclusion that it's an inner C issue and not the tube since both sides are the same. I'm thinking I'll just cut the stock ones off, clean them up, and weld them back on while getting my camber zero'd out.

Also, Lee happened to mention he had a VERY lightly used (3000 miles) Grizzly locker for an AAM 11.5 with new carrier bearings and races on it. Juuuuuust what I've been looking for :D What a guy!
 
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