going full width

Loganwayne

Loganwayne

#BTL
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Location
Clyde, North Carolina
im looking to do a full width swap in to my xj. i have found some axles but im not sure if its a good deal or not so looking for some insight on what i should be paying for a set out of the same truck. they came out of a 78 if that makes a difference. also would like to know if these axles would be a good choice or if there is a more desirable year. also these are 1/2 ton? five lug. how big of difference in weight and ground clearance would i have to deal with if i went 3/4 ton eight lug 44 and a dana 60. planning on running 37s three linked up front on air shocks or coils springs in back for now probably trying to stay between 4-6 inches in lift.
 
i think the 78 had the cast wedges. which can be a pain to deal with. I regretted going with a d44. it has same u joints as the d30 you have. pick up a BJ d60 for a little more and be happy for years to come.
 
if you going with the ford radius arm style the axles you are looking at will be almost a drop in setup. Alot of people does not like the radius arm setup but I have also seen them do great. I've got a hp d44/9in set with cast wedges and I'm asking $400 for mine if that helps
 
My only advice is if you are going 8 lug, don't waste $$$ on a 44 front. We've all done it, some more than once. It's the same exact work to install a 60. Sure a little more $$$ but you'll be money ahead to do it first. Don't spend time and money to "upgrade" to the same weak link, the ujoints. Sure you can buy RCVs or "chromos and super joints". But for the same cost, you could have a 60 with stock joints, stock inners and a set of $200 35 spline outers and be stronger.


Ball joint 60s and Super Duty 60s are relatively cheap (compared to other 60s) and will work just fine.
 
A 3/4 ton 44 is not any stronger than a 1/2 ton 44 it just has a different bolt pattern and in Fords case bigger brakes.Axle u joint size varied some but they are the same spline count and axle diameter.
 
1-tonmudder said:
A 3/4 ton 44 is not any stronger than a 1/2 ton 44 it just has a different bolt pattern and in Fords case bigger brakes.Axle u joint size varied some but they are the same spline count and axle diameter.
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Last I checked the axle tubes are thicker but that is the only benefit.
 
Black Bear said:
Agreed.. i have broken two different sets RCV's. they are not the end all solution to make a 44 live with larger tires. For the record I run 38's under a 4cyl toyota.
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You keep it alive in a yota because it takes atleast 90 hp to break a shaft and toys only have 89..... Just saying.
 
Jody Treadway said:
My only advice is if you are going 8 lug, don't waste $$$ on a 44 front. We've all done it, some more than once. It's the same exact work to install a 60. Sure a little more $$$ but you'll be money ahead to do it first. Don't spend time and money to "upgrade" to the same weak link, the ujoints. Sure you can buy RCVs or "chromos and super joints". But for the same cost, you could have a 60 with stock joints, stock inners and a set of $200 35 spline outers and be stronger.


Ball joint 60s and Super Duty 60s are relatively cheap (compared to other 60s) and will work just fine.
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^^^^ this ^^^^^^
 
if ur not going radius arms then don't even look into a 78-79 d44 axle with cast wedges the cost to get around it will be more then the axle it self. I got the set I got with intentions of going full widths, but after alot of thought I stuck with my d30. My ZJ has the V8 with 35s locked front and rear and I've never broke an axle (knock on wood). The d44 runs the same size u-joint 760 as the d44 does, only benefit is the bigger ring gear over the d30. If your going bigger go with a d60. I bet you won't lose 1" of ground clearance plus the added unsprung weight will help lower your CG
 
pcole0920 said:
if ur not going radius arms then don't even look into a 78-79 d44 axle with cast wedges the cost to get around it will be more then the axle it self. I got the set I got with intentions of going full widths, but after alot of thought I stuck with my d30. My ZJ has the V8 with 35s locked front and rear and I've never broke an axle (knock on wood). The d44 runs the same size u-joint 760 as the d44 does, only benefit is the bigger ring gear over the d30. If your going bigger go with a d60. I bet you won't lose 1" of ground clearance plus the added unsprung weight will help lower your CG
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This is what I was looking for I'm concerned about hanging up on everything. I really like the look of full widths and I can't keep up with the guys I started wheeling with they all have gone to bigger axles and wheel/tire combos. As for my dana 30 in a year and a half I've broke three shafts and after my last trip to ure I think my u- joint is about to go.... Probably lose it Saturday at the flats I guess I like testing and pushing myself and jeep to hard
 
I've beat the crap outta mine with like I said lockers 35s and around 8pis in the tires. Since its in a xj I'm sure u have the axles with the smaller u-joints then the zj's run (someone help me here can't remember the u-joint size). I run with guys from stock and 31s to tons and 40s. I love the full width look and I went with 1.5" spacers all the way around. Its your jeep do with as you please, but just my .02 save your money for a d60 front but I would run a 14bolt rear over a 60 rear
 
I asked for everyone's .02 lol. I have no problem telling anyone that I don't know what I need that's why I ask on here. Plenty of people been there done that so why not ask what I don't know.
 
A Dana 60 isn't that much bigger than a Dana 44. It's not like you're going to a 14 bolt, Dana 80, or AAM 11.5....those are rock anchors.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
A Dana 60 isn't that much bigger than a Dana 44. It's not like you're going to a 14 bolt, Dana 80, or AAM 11.5....those are rock anchors.
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I wish some would have told me that before I spent all my money on 60 and a 14 bolt......
 
Dana 44 19 spline stub shaft vs dana 60 30 stub shaft
 

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Ball joint Dana 60...


Dana 44...
 
Its nice to have the option :gitrdun:
 
@baby hulk I meant overall size, not strength. :rolleyes: Obviously a 60/14 bolt is a proven setup and works well. Hell, I have 60s in two of my trucks with a 14 bolt in one and an 11.5 in the other.

The OP was just talking about ground clearance on a 44 vs. that of a 60, not a big difference there.
 
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