High flow orifice tube,anybody used one???

1-tonmudder

1-tonmudder

Doin my part to stir the pot.
Joined
Apr 17, 2005
Location
Greeneville TN
The a/c comp on my work truck (96 F250 7.3 PSD) took a dump and is leaking where it bolts together.Been lookin at parts to fix it,new comp,accumilator,and orifice tube plus a good flush,and found this orifice tube for extreme heat areas.
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...l-turbo-diesel/320751_270315_0/?checkfit=true

Says it will give an additional 5 -12 degrees of cooling and since the truck never had a real good air to begin with that sounds good to me but at $12 more than the price of the next closest one offered,I have to wonder of its worth the extra $$$.Thoughts,opinions???

I have a 01 F350 PSD and it'll blow 40 degrees out the vents all day and Id like to get close to that on my work truck.
 
I put one on my 03 f250 a few years back. It dropped the temp coming from the vents from 55 to 40 on a 95* day. Never gave a bit of trouble. That and a vacuum operated heater control valve are the two best ac mods you can do to a superduty or obs Ford. Get a superduty heater control valve splice it into the heater inlet hose, on superdutys that don't already have one there's a grey vacuum line plugged on a nipple on the evaporator box, just plug it on the valve that's what it's for. On obs trucks tee into the max air vacuum motor under the hood over by the right fender. Both setups cut off the heater water flow in max or off position. That dropped my outlet temp from 60 to 55 originally.

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I would leave the size of the orifice tube at whatever it was designed with. If you don't get cold air, something else is wrong.
However some way of shutting off the flow to the heater core is a great idea! No need to put all that heat onto the dash if we are trying to cool it off.

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Tim C said:
I put one on my 03 f250 a few years back. It dropped the temp coming from the vents from 55 to 40 on a 95* day. Never gave a bit of trouble. That and a vacuum operated heater control valve are the two best ac mods you can do to a superduty or obs Ford. Get a superduty heater control valve splice it into the heater inlet hose, on superdutys that don't already have one there's a grey vacuum line plugged on a nipple on the evaporator box, just plug it on the valve that's what it's for. On obs trucks tee into the max air vacuum motor under the hood over by the right fender. Both setups cut off the heater water flow in max or off position. That dropped my outlet temp from 60 to 55 originally.

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Yeah I saw that mod online.

BigClay said:
I have nothing to contribute except reading the word orifice makes me think this was going to be a dirty post for the garage (yes I know I am 12) :D
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Theres always that one guy.:D

GubNi said:
I can't contribute much, but it's only $12 so why not? It seems like a small risk to me compared to the potential gain.
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The $12 is not so much the issue.This one is 32.99 and the stock replacement is $2.99 and they go up from there.Im not against spending money where its needed but I expect some return when I'm payin extra.
Chris_M said:
I would leave the size of the orifice tube at whatever it was designed with. If you don't get cold air, something else is wrong.
However some way of shutting off the flow to the heater core is a great idea! No need to put all that heat onto the dash if we are trying to cool it off.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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My old work truck was a 96 CC psd and the air never got real cold on it but I never had the system apart,Im hopin this one does better.
 
Chris_M said:
I would leave the size of the orifice tube at whatever it was designed with. If you don't get cold air, something else is wrong.
However some way of shutting off the flow to the heater core is a great idea! No need to put all that heat onto the dash if we are trying to cool it off.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
The variable orifice tube he linked to has the same size orifice as the stock one, the difference is it also has a spring loaded check ball that can plug it up, causing the refrigerant to pass through a smaller diameter groove in the check ball seat. At low speed such as idling the ball is shut making the freon pass through the smaller groove (orifice) resulting in better cooling. At higher engine speeds the pressure pushes the ball off the seat using the larger stock orifice. If it fails it fails in the stock orifice position so there's no harm done.

I've seen three 03-05 superduty trucks that never got less than 55* air from the vents from the day they came off the dealer lot, this valve dropped each one 10-15*. 55* air is cold on a 95* day, but inside the truck takes forever to cool down, 40-45* air is much better.

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1-tonmudder said:
Yeah I saw that mod online.


Theres always that one guy.:D


The $12 is not so much the issue.This one is 32.99 and the stock replacement is $2.99 and they go up from there.Im not against spending money where its needed but I expect some return when I'm payin extra.

My old work truck was a 96 CC psd and the air never got real cold on it but I never had the system apart,Im hopin this one does better.
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I believe it's well worth the money. I hate orifice tube systems, I believe expansion valve systems are much better at cooling, this expensive tube acts more like an expansion valve, in that it can adjust for different conditions.

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Chris_M said:
I would leave the size of the orifice tube at whatever it was designed with. If you don't get cold air, something else is wrong.
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Well, for starters, a system designed for R-12 will be less efficient and less capable of big temperature differentials than if it were designed for R-134 from the beginning. That's part of the problem. But the orifice tube might help.
 
shawn said:
Well, for starters, a system designed for R-12 will be less efficient and less capable of big temperature differentials than if it were designed for R-134 from the beginning. That's part of the problem. But the orifice tube might help.
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This one has always been R-134.
 
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