"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

@ckruzer does the like mean you agree and go with it, lol (making the mounts as we speak)
 
That roll axis angle is stupid high, bring the frame mount for the lowers in to the center as much as you can. Also if you're running a double cardon driveshaft you want your upper to be longer than your lowers. Also your track bar numbers appear to be the generic ones, need to figure out where it's gonna go before moving forward.

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Chris_Keziah said:
Also if you're running a double cardon driveshaft you want your upper to be longer than your lowers.
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No just a regular rear shaft. With smaller lift than I had and pinion set at 6degrees roughly, regular driveshaft will do great..at ride height it's practically close to stock angle
 
Some times you just have to say "fuck it" and actually build the thing otherwise you will run the numbers ad infinitum and your truck will sit on jackstands for eternity. Besides, just like politics no one really agrees on the "magic number" anyway.
 
Ok here's what appears to be great AS number and as close to level roll axis angle with track bar built into it the best I can figure..
braxton357 said:
Some times you just have to say "fuck it" and actually build the thing otherwise you will run the numbers ad infinitum and your truck will sit on jackstands for eternity. Besides, just like politics no one really agrees on the "magic number" anyway.
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I'm with you on this. I've about thrown some leafs back under it about 10times now lol but I wanna be able to say I'm capable of doing this.
It's gotta/gonna happen this week as far as links on the rear goes cause I AM NOT one to let my stuff sit forever lol. Unfortunately though I realize since I AM doing it by the calculator I have to go with some good numbers so all this computer planning jumble is for something
 
IMG_20180311_195308918.jpg
 
marty79 said:
Rear, I'm hoping to finalize it and put it together finally. Seems I'm close "enough"??
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Get the AS up around 60%

Are u doing a 3 link rear?

If you are doing 4 link rear u should really use the 4 link calc. Your roll axis angle is dependent on the panhard with the 3 link calc.

With a 4 link, the roll axis angle is dependent on a line between the upper and lower convergence points.

Think of roll axis angle (roll center height/roll moment) as antisquat but for side to side relationship vs front to rear.
 
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Mac5005 said:
Are u doing a 3 link rear?
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Yes it is much much easier to get the good numbers I have with the 3link rather than the 4 that's why I tried both and stuck with the 3link.
4link was just way too much work/cutting into body and floor boards . 3link allows me to make it all work with current setup
 
marty79 said:
so guys this 3link setup looks really good as far as numbers..what do you guys think. I'm home now and ready to get back at it but wanna make sure you guys agree with this setup. Thank you
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@marty79 see in bold and underline. this is what i "liked" about the post
 
ckruzer said:
@marty79 see in bold and underline. this is what i "liked" about the post
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Ah gotcha. I'm trying my best. Admit patience is wearing on me lol, ready to get rolling
 
marty79 said:
Yes it is much much easier to get the good numbers I have with the 3link rather than the 4 that's why I tried both and stuck with the 3link.
4link was just way too much work/cutting into body and floor boards . 3link allows me to make it all work with current setup
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Your antisquat numbers should look very similar with the 4link if you put the mounts in basically the same place as the 3 link. The difference is you would have 2 uppers that converge on the axle.
 
Well it has begun lol..
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How much thread engagement do you have on those heims? I wish I still had the pic of my buddies rig that pulled the threads out of his. He had a couple of threads in to adjust the position. We were going to build new links... Yeah, we forgot. Anyway, on the first real trip he got on it pretty good and pulled out his top links when he caught traction. It was a pretty serious deal... Luckily it was the last trail and we could literally see the trailers from where we were.

Short story... If you only have a little bit of thread engagement build new links now of before you go wheeling.

Lol... Another story... A different buddy of mine was linking the rear of his yota. He was unsure of his numbers so he went to Lowe's and got whatever size emt fit over his heims. This was absolutely temporary to test travel and I think he put tires on it just to flex it with a hoist. He had a thread on pirate and the picture readers went nuts.

Not really related... Just a cool story bro
 
BigGreenMonster said:
How much thread engagement do you have on those heims?
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I still had to get my wheelbase even so driver side came back in 1/2" so it's all good. That was quick pics after both in there. I tend to do that rather than wait till it's all even/clean/adjusted lol
 
marty79 said:
I still had to get my wheelbase even so driver side came back in 1/2" so it's all good. That was quick pics after both in there. I tend to do that rather than wait till it's all even/clean/adjusted lol
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No problem man... Just making sure. Hate to see someone else overlook that and end up wrecking everything attached to the axle
 
BigGreenMonster said:
No problem man... Just making sure. Hate to see someone else overlook that and end up wrecking everything attached to the axle
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I get overly excited lol
 
Ok guys so will this work. I have upper links same spot works for either setup so figure do 4link and no track bar.
Are the #s good enough, thank you
IMG_20180313_231522559.jpg
 
marty79 said:
Ok guys so will this work. I have upper links same spot works for either setup so figure do 4link and no track bar.
Are the #s good enough, thank you
View attachment 264647
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I see a few issue you could improve with little change.

Lower your AS 7-10%.

Shorten the uppers a little. They are a couple inches too long for the AS not to increase a bunch during droop.

Hard to say how much as you aren’t looking at the geometry as the suspension cycles.

I guess it’s too late to triangulate the lowers some, this would help the roll axis angle and decrease some rear steer when articulating.

Make chassis side mounts have 3 holes at 1” increments vertically. Use the dimension you end with in the calculator as your center hole.
 
Mac5005 said:
I see a few issue you could improve with little change.

Lower your AS 7-10%.

Shorten the uppers a little. They are a couple inches too long for the AS not to increase a bunch during droop.

Hard to say how much as you aren’t looking at the geometry as the suspension cycles.

I guess it’s too late to triangulate the lowers some, this would help the roll axis angle and decrease some rear steer when articulating.

Make chassis side mounts have 3 holes at 1” increments vertically. Use the dimension you end with in the calculator as your center hole.
Click to expand...
Thank you
 
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