2000 F-550 7.3L clutch

Bagt

Bagt

Turtle
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Location
Goldhill
So my service truck clutch is starting to slip. I was wondering what the “in thing” is for a decent clutch these days. Not looking to break the bank but I want a good clutch also. The truck has swamp injectors adjustable chip weights around 12000 all the time and towes pretty dang heavy about once a month or so 225/70r19.5 tires. So school me.
 
I think the Fords used a dual mass flywheel, so I'd probably change it out to a normal flywheel when you do the clutch.
 
I had a SouthBend in my 99 7.3, it wasn't cheap but well worth it compared to the stocker.
 
I've installed a good number of luk & carquest clutches with good longevity.. the ceramic button clutches grab hard and tend to chatter a little if you're thinking of going ceramic, just to be forewarned.
 
They used them up through the 6.0s. However, yours may not have one. The 450/550s didn't use them apparently. I guess they didn't figure a truck of that size and used for work needed the quietness and dampening. I'd rather not have a dual mass anyway.
 
But I do know at some point in the last 4 or 5 years it has had a clutch and a jasper transmission installed per the previous owner we have owned it for about a year and a half
 
I put a southbend con-ofe in my 02 back in the day but that was mainly because they were the only ones that could get a clutch and flywheel to Boone overnight. I was not nice to my ZF6 considering I pretty much only towed through the mountains, either up, down or around with the truck set on a PHP +75hp daily or +50hp tow tune.
 
Im running a southbend twin disk and their hydraulics in my 99 f550, probably more clutch than i need but it works well. The only problem i have is when backing up to a trailer just trying to move a little it shakes.
 
toyota1 said:
Im running a southbend twin disk and their hydraulics in my 99 f550, probably more clutch than i need but it works well. The only problem i have is when backing up to a trailer just trying to move a little it shakes.
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That's likely a ceramic button clutch and the grabbing/chattering. I'm sure it will also do it starting in first up a hill as well. At least the ones I've installed had, from the first time using it and on.
 
a_kelley said:
That's likely a ceramic button clutch and the grabbing/chattering. I'm sure it will also do it starting in first up a hill as well. At least the ones I've installed had, from the first time using it and on.
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Its not near as noticeable starting on a hill in first but it is more than a stock style clutch. Its still better than blowing through the luk that was in the truck
 
I think the dual discs buck in reverse because the floater plate does weird stuff under light pressure. It's in the nature of the beast. I'd say it's still totally worth it.
 
I'm aware. Their dual discs listed for that application are either full organic lining or ceramic on one side and organic on the other. It doesn't look like they have a full ceramic dual disc unless it's a full blown competition setup.

My main point was just that dual discs don't really like to be feathered from what I've seen. They're kind of off or on.
 
While on the way to KOH in 2012 I had the clutch break in my f250 (apparently common at around 100k miles). Had to replace the clutch, got a Luk from Napa in Kingman AZ, but talked with quite a few Diesel mechanics before replacing it and most recommended the Luk clutches.

Honestly at that time I would have bought anything just to get it fixed, but Napa was the only place that had one and it was a Luk so that was a good thing I guess.
 
Had a southbend dual disc in my 07 2500 since 09. Never had any trouble other than arguing with techs at the oil change place about my throw out bearing. They hear the clutch chatter and always think my TO bearing is about to blow.
 
Running a south bend and it’s some of the best money I have ever spent.
 
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