If I had a Toyota 4Runner or Pick-up...

8379qtj10

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2007
Location
Washington N.C
I have been messing with Jeep related stuff for a long time and I want to try something new...
I am thinking something light and Toyota.
I know I want full width axles
35-37" Tires
I just don't know much about Toyota's
What mods would get me to that goal
Suggested upgrades etc...
Would be a mix of rocks, mud, sand, trails, and some street BUT not a DD( just to and from )
I like 4Runners because of the room
Please throw out ideas,links,vendors,etc.
Thanks NC4x4
 
Full width

What do you mean by full width? I think Toy solid axles are 55" but can be widened slightly (58" IIRC). FJ80 is wider but...hard to find and a bit more expensive.
 
if you are wanting to run fullwidths, its basically like putting some in a CJ or YJ and youll haveta outboard the springs, or do a SAS depending on what year you do...

also running dual cases and 4.7s is a popular mod, that is worth it...

as said, it all depends on what type of fullwidths you wanna run... FJ80 axles are hard to find, 1/2 ton fullwidths would basically only gain you some width but not strength; so if you are set on fullwidth then id go 3/4-1 ton... you will deff haveta regear the axles to something in the 5.xx so keep that in mind when choosing axles...
 
Full widths begin Dana 60/14 bolt
I have found a 87 4runner body I am going to check out sunday.
I will most likey want to run a Chevy 4.3/SB V8 but with the Toyota trans/cases
What about springs for the SAS Chevy,Toyota,Jeep ??
 
its basically the same type suspension you might run in a jeep...

guys have had sucess with 63" chevys in the rear, and stock rears, waggys, 44044s in the front...

as far as drivetrain goes, if you wanna run a 4.3, then id use a chevy tranny with yota cases... the yota trannies dont like hte bigger motors sometimes... but the stock drivetrain works well in them
 
full widths is pointless with 37's, youll lose ground clearence, youll probably put in a dana 44(probably weaker than a stock toy front) b/c 60's are to expensive, and you can make a toyota front as strong as a 60 w/ 30 spilners. Why anyone would go full widths on a toy is beyond me the toy axles are half the reason why you start w/ a toy. they are light strong and have great ground clearnece. w/ a 60 in the front youll need to run 42's to have the ground clearence of 37's and toy axle. i could be wrong but with out some serious bump stop technology and a track bar, 63 chevies won't hold up to a 14 bolt. Im over the full width rant. so your going to take a toy 4runner and change the axles and the motor, why even start w/ a toyota the frame is not really strong kinda of thin, making it light and not wanting to carry around full widths, then your going to buy an expensive adapter to go to toy tranny and t-case, which aren't really that strong either, when you could just go atlas or the other new one slips my mind. DO you like toyota interiors. Toys work on the trail b/c they are simple and light and very strong the motors are bulletproof, their electronics are great, Now basically you going to a take all that great and make it really heavy, im sure it will work but i bet you spend more money, and have more breakage problems than a simple built toyota.
 
Really

Toy axles are pretty tough if you build them. They look really good if you take into account the weight/clearance.
Toy driveshafts are tough (with thicker tube).
Doublers are easy.
High steer is easy
Motors are decent.

My future project is looking like a CJ7 with all toy drivetrain (tcase doubler), slightly streched. Probably a 2.7, maybe a 3.4. Probably on 35s maybe 37s. ARBs front and rear. Trying to have something that's decent on road as well as off.
 
csudman said:
There's always the dual tranny option
Click to expand...
Nice plug!:lol: To the OP, I agree with most of what Cperry said, The Toy axles are one of the strongest parts of the truck. If you can find it go for an '85 4runner. It already has a solid front axle and if you can find one get the 22re. The motor isn't super powerful to say the least, but with a dual tranny or dual case setup you'll have more than enough torque for anything, and you don't loose all the legendary Toyota reliability. What you're saying you want to do is replace all the Toyota stuff and make it full width so you loose in the tight places too. You've basically killed the reason to get a Toyota in the first place.

With all that said, it's your truck. Do what YOU want with it not what we want you to do with it.
 
The words said above where just what I was looking to hear.
I understand everything said
Thanks for the info and input.
The 4runner I have is a 87 model...made the deal today.
It has no motor or trans.
I think I will run the Toyota axles and see how it goes.

Anything axle wise I should look for...years,gears,etc. ??
 
well to get the same width as the IFS rear you have, youll wanna get a toyota front and run spacers or a widening kit for it.... depending on what drivetrain you decide on, youll prob want to run 5.29s in the axles...

the newer the axle the better, typically....
 
84-85 axles are fully trussed, but a better truss can be bought or built for cheap, ball gussets, and filling in your turning stops will save breakage. V6 rear ends are stronger just the 3rd portion not the housing, largere bearings. Basically i have evrything you need to build a sweet toyota at a resonable price b/c i want to build a different one but can't sell mine.

2.7 tacoma motor, w56, 2 topshift cases, 5.29's detroit front, 5.29's v6 spool rear. 85 front axle. Buy a sas kit, dual case adapter, some chevy rears, and some fat tires. Your done, on the trail wheeling right behind just about anyone. then update to 30 spliners, winch.
 
Slight thread hi-jack... A couple of quick questions.

I would like to build a '89-'95 Toyota short bed 4x4. 50% of the time it would be on road and the 50% would be off road (Uwharrie and Brown Mtn type terrain and private land slighty harder than Uwharrie). I plan on using an All-Pro flat bed or something like it, with a tool box and a spare holder on the bed.

I want to run a 34"-36" tire with out lifting the truck. I know I will have to regear the axles and maybe the t-case. I would like to leave the stock IFS unlocked under the truck for now and cut the stock fenders or run a set of fiberglass fenders up front. Then run a Lock-Right, No-Slip or factory Toyota e-locker in the rear.

I have not purchased the truck yet. I plan on starting with a short bed '89-'95 Toy 5spd - 22re. What do you think? Anyone see any serious problems with bilding a rig set up like this?

<><Fish
 
OK
I have a 4runnuer...1985 Solid front axle...and still trying to deside what vendor to get my kit from.
SKY ,All-pro, Trail Gear
I have got stuff from Sky Mfg. before and it was NICE stff.

Also what did 63" Chevy springs come in ??
 
8379qtj10 said:
OK
I have a 4runnuer...1985 Solid front axle...and still trying to deside what vendor to get my kit from.
SKY ,All-pro, Trail Gear
I have got stuff from Sky Mfg. before and it was NICE stff.
Also what did 63" Chevy springs come in ??
Click to expand...



1988-1998 1/2 ton Chevy or GMC truck... 2wd's have 3springs plus overload, 4wd's have 4 springs plus overload
 
Update
I made an offer on a sweet 4runner but it is stuck in a warehouse due to storage fees...which I was told would not be a problem...still looking at other rigs.
I got a 85 model front axle for a start
 
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