Bought an old BTF U4 buggy

[Bebop]

Ideally I'd like to drop the PS pump to the ALT position and move the ALT to the pass but unfortunately options are limited by the chassis. Might ditch the pass side tensioner all together and do something like this:

View attachment 447240

The WP is electric and the pulley is just an idler. That would give the PS max wrap and provide decent wrap on the crank. Would need to convert the idler to a manual tensioner which shouldn't be too difficult

I am building something exactly like that on my buggy but I had to do custom brackets, using an automatic tensionner.

Imagine this, with the routing you're talking about and the auto-tensioner

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

I am building something exactly like that on my buggy but I had to do custom brackets, using an automatic tensionner.

Imagine this, with the routing you're talking about and the auto-tensioner
View attachment 447254

Ict has like 10 options for ls and they’re not too expensive. You just need to match the kit to what water pump style you have, otherwise they’re universal

 

[Joe_U4]

Ict has like 10 options for ls and they’re not too expensive. You just need to match the kit to what water pump style you have, otherwise they’re universal

They make quality stuff and a fair price. I've been very impressed with their CNC stuff

 

[Joe_U4]

The plan is to eventually build the Spidertrax axles I have laying around but for the time being I'm going to roll with the D60/14B. The 14B is stock except for a weld diff and gears and that's not going to work for me. Been looking at options to bullet-proof the 14B. ECGS offers a 40 spline builders kit which seems like a good option without breaking the bank. Anyone used this kit: 40 Spline Rear Builder Kit? My second choice is Branik but It would add significantly to the cost.

 

[Jody Treadway]

The plan is to eventually build the Spidertrax axles I have laying around but for the time being I'm going to roll with the D60/14B. The 14B is stock except for a weld diff and gears and that's not going to work for me. Been looking at options to bullet-proof the 14B. ECGS offers a 40 spline builders kit which seems like a good option without breaking the bank. Anyone used this kit: 40 Spline Rear Builder Kit? My second choice is Branik but It would add significantly to the cost.

I had them quote me an ECGS 14 Bolt housing with 40 spline shafts, spool, hubs, etc and the cost was surprisingly not bad at all. I would add my own gears and brakes to complete

 

[Bebop]

The plan is to eventually build the Spidertrax axles I have laying around but for the time being I'm going to roll with the D60/14B. The 14B is stock except for a weld diff and gears and that's not going to work for me. Been looking at options to bullet-proof the 14B. ECGS offers a 40 spline builders kit which seems like a good option without breaking the bank. Anyone used this kit: 40 Spline Rear Builder Kit? My second choice is Branik but It would add significantly to the cost.

Those spindles are paper thin
I would much rather keep the factory ones and use OEM sized Mark Williams axles.

 

[Joe_U4]

Those spindles are paper thin
I would much rather keep the factory ones and use OEM sized Mark Williams axles.

Those are not stock bored spindles. They are custom manufactured by ECGS, they are huge with a 80k lbs tensile strength rating

 

[Bebop]

For this price you can get a whole new housing with UB cups.
Much stronger and better option.

 

[Joe_U4]

For this price you can get a whole new housing with UB cups.
Much stronger and better option.

Looking at options......show me

 

[Joe_U4]

Cheapest I can find a 14B UB setup is $3200 for axle shafts, UB cups, and drive flanges.....

I would prefer UB setup but this a temp measure until I build my Spidertrax axles. If I'm going to spend $3-4k on a 14B I'll just build my Spidertrax stuff and be done with it. Only things I need for them are UB cups, shafts, and time. Right at $3k in parts.

 

[Bebop]

You can sell your current axle to offset the cost vs cutting your current one.

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Cheapest I can find a 14B UB setup is $3200 for axle shafts, UB cups, and drive flanges.....

I would prefer UB setup but this a temp measure until I build my Spidertrax axles. If I'm going to spend $3-4k on a 14B I'll just build my Spidertrax stuff and be done with it. Only things I need for them are UB cups, shafts, and time. Right at $3k in parts.

What’s with not just setting up the spiders, what do they lack? Would you loose money selling the spiders parts you have?

The most permanent solution is a temporary one that works

 

[Joe_U4]

What’s with not just setting up the spiders, what do they lack? Would you loose money selling the spiders parts you have?

The most permanent solution is a temporary one that works

I've got everything needed except unit bearing cups, shafts, and misc brackets. The shafts are going to be $5-6k. My other buggy has Spider 9s so I have spare everything.

The D60 that's in it now is complete and the rear only needs axles and a spool. I'd rather spend the time right now on finishing the rest of the machine.

 

[Joe_U4]

Thanks to @Hokie_YJ for the hookup on a set of 9.5" 5.13 gears

 

[Joe_U4]

Needed to show the blue buggy some love before the trip next weekend to Hollerwood. Been struggling to keep the alternator belt from slipping for quite a while. It uses KRC pulleys and the smallest pulley they have is 1.75". Needed this small of an alternator pulley to get the right ratio for the PM alternator. Problem is that it's only a 3 rib pulley and the belt quickly stretches and starts to slip. Finally decided to do something about it and change to a 6 rib pulley. Easier said than done

Problem #1 was finding a 6 rib belt the right length. I have been running a 23.1" belt. The closest 6 rib I could find is a 22" belt. Gates discontinued the belt years ago. The existing stock was bought up by one company. They charge $80 for a $10 belt. Turns out it's some special belt for an aftermarket companies to add a supercharger to a 350Z. Got the belt in and ready to install..... while a 1.1" difference doesn't sound like a lot.....IT IS!

Problem # 2 can't adjust the alternator close enough to get the belt to fit. It is hitting the water pump heater core ports. No problem I'll just tap them deeper and cut them off. That was no bueno and resulted in a busted pump.

Ordered new high volume water pump with screw in ports. Water pump installed and ready to reassemble..... still no bueno as I still adjust the pump close enough. Hitting the water pump body. Ok..grinder time.... clearanced.

Problem #3 The bracket is limiting adjustment. No problem let's machine the bracket. I'm no machinist but I play one on the Internet.

Slot extended and clearanced for max adjustment. Hopefully this works or I'll have to run two 3 rib belts

Also the new pulley was the wrong offset and would not fit so had to machine it.

Got it done and ready to see if the shit show is going to come to an end but first lunch time

 

[Hokie_YJ]

Thanks to @Hokie_YJ for the hookup on a set of 9.5" 5.13 gears

View attachment 447926

You’re welcome! Glad to see them get used. They got there quick!

 

[Joe_U4]

I think that will solve the problem

 

[Joe_U4]

Present from Randy Slawson at Bomber Fab

Guess you can't really call it a present when you pay for it

 

[Joe_U4]

After some debate the pro/cons I'm going to go ahead and build my Spider 9s. I'll start ordering parts this week. If anyone wants a 14B or D60 let me know. The 14B has a truss, 4.88 gears, and welded diff. The D60 is a '79 Snow Fighter, Reid Knuckles, ECGS 35 spline chromo shafts, spool, 4.88 gears, ECGS drive slugs, new 3/4T calipers, rotors, & pad, Artec truss, 6061 tie-rods, 1480 U-joints. I have no idea what they are worth...suggestions?

 

[Jody Treadway]

After some debate the pro/cons I'm going to go ahead and build my Spider 9s. I'll start ordering parts this week. If anyone wants a 14B or D60 let me know. The 14B has a truss, 4.88 gears, and welded diff. The D60 is a '79 Snow Fighter, Reid Knuckles, ECGS 35 spline chromo shafts, spool, 4.88 gears, ECGS drive slugs, new 3/4T calipers, rotors, & pad, Artec truss, 6061 tie-rods, 1480 U-joints. I have no idea what they are worth...suggestions?

It's hard to say what those are worth. With the current 05+ movment, the OG kingpin Fords arent worth as much as they once were (unless they're left stock for use on YJs mainly).
I run one myself and if I wasn't so vested in it with good shafts, spares, Solid knuckles, etc, I'd build a SD 60 for my new buggy.
Realistically, you could probably get $2500- $3k for the pair

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Nothing is more permanent than a temporary solution that works. You will be happy you don’t have to rework everything or sell the spider stuff at a loss in a few years

 

[Joe_U4]

Nothing is more permanent than a temporary solution that work.

That was the deciding factor

 

[Joe_U4]

Decision decisions decisions....

The plan was to use 35 spline Spidertrax Ultimate unit bearings that I had laying around. I had bought them used several years as spares for the blue buggy. However, upon closer inspection the splines are buggered up on a couple of them. The blue buggy uses 99-04 unit bearings (same as older Spidertrax with drive slugs). The front Spidertrax axle I have uses 99-04 unit bearings to fit the knuckles I already have. I also have multiple ST 300M outer shafts with CTM u-joints so I'm stuck with 99-04 UB on the front. However, the rear axle is open for discussion on 99-04 or 05+ unit bearings. I'm going to use Branik 300M shafts 35 or 40 spline. With the 05+ unit bearings I could run 40 spline shafts but they will not match the front axle or my other buggy. With the 99-05 unit bearings I'm limited to a 35 spline axle but then all the unit bearings are the same on both buggies. I've been beating the crap out the blue buggy for several years with Branik 35 spline axles and never an issue. So I'm debating is it worth running two different UBs on the rear to go to a 40 spline?

 

[Joe_U4]

Also all the 9" 3rds I already have are 35 spline. Hmmm....easy decision I guess

 

[ghost]

Decision decisions decisions....

The plan was to use 35 spline Spidertrax Ultimate unit bearings that I had laying around. I had bought them used several years as spares for the blue buggy. However, upon closer inspection the splines are buggered up on a couple of them. The blue buggy uses 99-04 unit bearings (same as older Spidertrax with drive slugs). The front Spidertrax axle I have uses 99-04 unit bearings to fit the knuckles I already have. I also have multiple ST 300M outer shafts with CTM u-joints so I'm stuck with 99-04 UB on the front. However, the rear axle is open for discussion on 99-04 or 05+ unit bearings. I'm going to use Branik 300M shafts 35 or 40 spline. With the 05+ unit bearings I could run 40 spline shafts but they will not match the front axle or my other buggy. With the 99-05 unit bearings I'm limited to a 35 spline axle but then all the unit bearings are the same on both buggies. I've been beating the crap out the blue buggy for several years with Branik 35 spline axles and never an issue. So I'm debating is it worth running two different UBs on the rear to go to a 40 spline?

I know nothing here but my question is how much more powerful is the new buggy over the old one you have been beating on.