Welding rear D44, XJ

RatLabGuy

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
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Churchville, MD
What's the easiest way to go about welding the rear diff in an '89 XJ? It's the factory D44.
E.g., does it need to come out? Just how much do you need to do to get the carrier out? Drums have to come aprt, or just unbolted?
Any good write-ups on it?
 
You asked easiest, not best or strongest.

The easiest way is to pull the diff cover and clean the spiders with about 4 cans of brakes cleaner while rotating the driveshaft.

Then preceed to weld all the spiders together. Make sure to use lots of weld and it's a good ideal to weld the side gears to the carrier.

Then fill with fluid, replace RTV on cover, and go have fun.
 
We welded mine in the Jeep. Welded the spiders to each other and then to the carrier. Make sure you clean it up good before and after.
 
GubNi said:
You asked easiest, not best or strongest.
The easiest way is to pull the diff cover and clean the spiders with about 4 cans of brakes cleaner while rotating the driveshaft.
Then preceed to weld all the spiders together. Make sure to use lots of weld and it's a good ideal to weld the side gears to the carrier.
Then fill with fluid, replace RTV on cover, and go have fun.
Click to expand...

Hm.
Now, how does that compare to, say, a mini spool?
For $70 this seems awefully appealing
http://completeoffroad.com/i-123497-mini-spool-dana-44-30-spline.html
 
weld it. most of those were semil float. that the drum off, and remove 4 bolts, the shaft slides out. take the cover off, 4 bolts, remove the carrier. weld it up, put it back together. very easy.
 
Do the drums have to come apart at all, or just the retaining bolts? And are the OE brake lines long enough to stretch?

After some quick reading on mini-spools, that dosn't seem like such a good idea...
 
You don't have to pull the carrier out, therefore no need to mess with the drums or brake lines. The only bolts that you'll need to remove will be from the rearend cover itself.

I've welded over a dozen & have had no problems. Wouldn't want to drive it on the street though :)


ai87.photobucket.com_albums_k123_chris_h_01_d35_spider_gears1_720.jpg



ai87.photobucket.com_albums_k123_chris_h_01_weld_002.jpg
 
Just un-do the retaining bolts, I don't think the drums need to be disassembled.
And why not drive it on the street, my 4runner is my dd, and it's welded in the rear :)
 
like they said above....pull the diff cover, clear, weld, refill. You might wanna drain the axle after about 100 miles or so and put clean fluid in it.
 
How ever you do it make sure the gears are cooled cool oil on hot gears=cracked spiders.

I usuall weld them in the housing under the jeep in the parking lot at URE
 
Jeff B said:
How ever you do it make sure the gears are cooled cool oil on hot gears=cracked spiders.
I usuall weld them in the housing under the jeep in the parking lot at URE
Click to expand...


That's the way I do it too. Have you ever stuck bolts between the spiders & welded them ? I do that on my derby cars. Works great :)
 
Na, Fill it with 6010 root & cap it off with a 7018. Real good for high stress. Used to use them all day long welding high pressure steam pipe.;)
 
Weld the spider gears to the side gears. Make sure to melt the teeth good and do many passes and fill in all 8 recesses where the side gears meet the spiders. Do not weld to the carrier.. Completely and utterly not necessary (not to mention weak). I've done tens of them including 30's, 35's, 44's, 60's, 14 bolts, 8.8's, toy 8"ers, etc. They are all still running and none have come back for the free re-weld. Spools on the street are no big deal, I have and will continue to drive them. Quick learning curve. Welded fronts aren't bad either if you have a clue what you're doing.
 
i did a cherokee d44 a few months ago, we pulled the shafts and took the carrier out, but it was because i didnt have my welder at the house. i have done them in the truck before and they held up fine. be sure to spray anti-spatter on the gears unless you want little weldament chunks stuck on the ring gear. as jeff mentioned, run the gear oil for a 100 mi or so and then change it. a magnet stuck to the diff cover is a good idea too because in that 100 mi all the little chunks will fall off and fall the the bottom of the housing. not somthing you want in your gear oil
 
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