01 Xterra D44 SAS: Help

JayrudWhyte

JayrudWhyte

Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2018
Location
Rutherford County, North Carolina
Hi guys! I'm new to the site and have only mild experience wrenching on things so please have some patience with me. Just recently, I purchased a 2001 Nissan Xterra with the intentions of turning it into a vehicle that can do a little bit of everything: trail crawling, rock crawling, over-landing, etc. I've looked into quite a few different mods and build threads after which to model my own and have decided that a SAS is going to be my first order of business.

The route I would like to go is, the Calmini SAS kit made for my truck (Calmini - Nissan Xterra). I am aware that the kit is perhaps overpriced compared to certain other options and I am also aware the kit itself has certain design flaws/weak points - I intend to fix them. Given my limited mechanical and welding knowledge I feel this would be the easiest route for me as the kit is 100% there, and 85% bolt on.

The kit is designed for a "1980-85 Jeep Wagoneer model Dana 44 (D44), with a driver's side drop and a non-vacuum actuated disconnect" donor axle. This is where my question(s) arises: Exactly how hard and how expensive will it be for me to find this specific axle? Where should I start looking for one? I have done a few Ebay, Craigslist, and Google searches but have yet to turn up anything useful. You dont see many Wagoneers nowadays and I'm worried that finding this specific axle might be more trouble than its worth. If this is the case is there an alternative axle I could use? Perhaps a different D44?

Any and all help and input is appreciated.
 
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Be careful with Calmini. They are known to take your order and money and make you wait until they have secured enough orders to have a production run, and then you wait for the production, and then they eventually ship (most of) it to you, all the while ignoring emails and phone calls. I would be sure to talk to someone there and have them personally confirm that all parts are currently available and "on the shelf" before ordering. And even then you're gambling.
 
That Calmini kit looks terrible for the cost. Seems like you'd be cheaper to get a set of JK axles and swap in using a diy radius long arm with coils up front and leafs in the rear. That Calmini kit looks terrible for the cost.
 
I’ve had to unmuck up a VA shops SAS of a xterra, which has led into me understanding a good bit about the process. That particular one was leafs, however he’s got a buddy with the same kit you’re talking about. It comes with only a 10”travel coilover, and springs are way too stiff in my opinion for them as they come. Waggy front axles do tend to work best, but the LP screws you. I say that because the front driveshaft is rather short so it will limit your droop.

Edit: Also go ahead and pick up a high steer arm, and crossover steering knuckle from ECGS. Go ahead to factor in regearing that waggy to 4.88 or 5.13/5.38. 33s and the factory 4.90 gears it’s a turd. 35s I’d go deeper gearing. Any bigger tire I’d get some crawler gears for the tcase.
 
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For what it’s worth, it sounds like a 2.5” IFS lift with a rear locker would suit your needs. The xterra CVs will do fine open on 33s.

You can also get manual hubs for the front, if you want a “weak link” that is easily replaced.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
That Calmini kit looks terrible for the cost. Seems like you'd be cheaper to get a set of JK axles and swap in using a diy radius long arm with coils up front and leafs in the rear. That Calmini kit looks terrible for the cost.
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I apologize I've been MIA for a couple days. What parts of the kit look terrible to you?

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JayrudWhyte said:
I apologize I've been KIA for a couple days. What parts of the kit look terrible to you?

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He’s saying you’re not getting a lot for the money. You could do it better and cheaper with JK rubicon axles and some Ruffstuff DIY radius arms. Their front driveshaft is way over priced so please don’t spend $800 on it. A 1310 CV shaft from a local vender and the rugged rocks adapter are a lot cheaper than $800.

Personally I’d buy a few brackets from these guys, and use a waggy front or get ECGS to use a HP center section with some waggy outers.
Nissan Xterra Solid Axle Swap (SAS) (WD22) 2000 - 2004
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
I’ve had to unmuck up a VA shops SAS of a xterra, which has led into me understanding a good bit about the process. That particular one was leafs, however he’s got a buddy with the same kit you’re talking about. It comes with only a 10”travel coilover, and springs are way too stiff in my opinion for them as they come. Waggy front axles do tend to work best, but the LP screws you. I say that because the front driveshaft is rather short so it will limit your droop.

Edit: Also go ahead and pick up a high steer arm, and crossover steering knuckle from ECGS. Go ahead to factor in regearing that waggy to 4.88 or 5.13/5.38. 33s and the factory 4.90 gears it’s a turd. 35s I’d go deeper gearing. Any bigger tire I’d get some crawler gears for the tcase.
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Id like to run 35s. RIP to my mpg

Also what do you mean "the LP screws you" ?

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iwaxmyjimmy said:
He’s saying you’re not getting a lot for the money. You could do it better and cheaper with JK rubicon axles and some Ruffstuff DIY radius arms. Their front driveshaft is way over priced so please don’t spend $800 on it. A 1310 CV shaft from a local vender and the rugged rocks adapter are a lot cheaper than $800.

Personally I’d buy a few brackets from these guys, and use a waggy front or get ECGS to use a HP center section with some waggy outers.
Nissan Xterra Solid Axle Swap (SAS) (WD22) 2000 - 2004
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My problem is my limited technical knowledge on this subject. I'm not confident enough in my own ability to do it from scratch.

What is "ECGS" ?

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JayrudWhyte said:
Id like to run 35s. RIP to my mpg

Also what do you mean "the LP screws you" ?

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Low pinion axle. The xterra has a very short front driveline when sas. U joints usually bind in the front driveshaft under suspension travel. A high pinion front axle will help alleviate the issue.





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If you're going to swap axles, I would consider buying these.

Hp 44 and 9inch
 
JayrudWhyte said:
I apologize I've been MIA for a couple days. What parts of the kit look terrible to you?

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The radius arms, for that kind of money it should really be a well designed 3 link. Could always drop it off at MarsFab and let him do his magic.
 
Okay so what I'm getting here is that calmini + wagoneer axle = bad because overpriced/under-quality and LP which may cause U-joint binding.

So what route should I take? If I dont go the calmini route, which it seems like I may not after all, what all would I need, aside from the axle itself, to do it without the calmini kit? I've read from @iwaxmyjimmy that maybe JK axles would be best. @drkelly also shared some D44's off an F250 with Detroit lockers in both front and rear. I'm open to recommendations and suggestions.

Also I guess on the technical side of things it won't be a huge-huge problem. I've got my dad who's help I would probably have ended up enlisting in this project anyway so as long as I (and he) have some idea of what needs to happen during the swap I think it should be fine

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JayrudWhyte said:
Yeah but leafs will limit my travel will they not? I was hoping to eventually convert the rear to coil as well so..

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If you use a low pinion axle that will be your limiting factor.
And without major fabrication work a radius arm set up with 10” coil overs is gonna be probably close to what you could get with a good leaf spring set up.

Except the leaf spring set up with be 1/4 - 1/3 the cost of a coil over set up


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Loganwayne said:
If you use a low pinion axle that will be your limiting factor.
And without major fabrication work a radius arm set up with 10” coil overs is gonna be probably close to what you could get with a good leaf spring set up.

Except the leaf spring set up with be 1/4 - 1/3 the cost of a coil over set up


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Define major fabrication

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