01 Xterra D44 SAS: Help

Loganwayne said:
Frenching frame most likely reworking inner finders custom shock mounts. There is a build thread on a frontier on here. Maybe find it and look through it and see if you feel you could handle it.


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I appreciate it. I'll look for it. If I did do that it would probably be on done the road. I dont see a reason why 10 inches of travel with either coils or leafs wouldn't be enough for the types of things I am looking to do, assuming I would have a full 10 inches of travel when all is said and done. I could always BL and SL after SAS to get extra stuffing room I guess.

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JayrudWhyte said:
I appreciate it. I'll look for it. If I did do that it would probably be on done the road. I dont see a reason why 10 inches of travel with either coils or leafs wouldn't be enough for the types of things I am looking to do, assuming I would have a full 10 inches of travel when all is said and done. I could always BL a couple inches after SAS to get extra stuffing room I guess.

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A basic recipe for SUA 33s on an xterra. Won’t use all of the 12 travel shock up unless you pull a leaf or two out of those ranches. Out back you could run a decent travel shock, the factory rear leafs are fairly soft.

SAS Kit

-rancho 44044
-Rugged rocks trans cross member
-XJ/TJ front driveshaft to shorten and use
-rugged rocks transfer case adapter flange
-waggy front axle
-4.88 gear set/install kit
-cheap 12” travel pro comp shocks
-a ECGS passenger side knuckle/steering arm
-a flat Toyota pitman arm but the EGCS steering arms work perfect with it
-Barnes4wd crossover steering kit
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
A basic recipe for SUA 33s on an xterra. Won’t use all of the 12 travel shock up unless you pull a leaf or two out of those ranches. Out back you could run a decent travel shock, the factory rear leafs are fairly soft.

SAS Kit

-rancho 44044
-Rugged rocks trans cross member
-XJ/TJ front driveshaft to shorten and use
-rugged rocks transfer case adapter flange
-waggy front axle
-4.88 gear set/install kit
-cheap 12” travel pro comp shocks
-a ECGS passenger side knuckle/steering arm
-a flat Toyota pitman arm but the EGCS steering arms work perfect with it
-Barnes4wd crossover steering kit
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I'm thinking using a HP D44 out of an old Ford instead of the LP out of a Wagoneer. Someone pointed out LP could cause U-joint binding which I didnt even think about prior to wanting to SAS.

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JayrudWhyte said:
I'm thinking using a HP D44 out of an old Ford instead of the LP out of a Wagoneer. Someone pointed out LP could cause U-joint binding which I didnt even think about prior to wanting to SAS.

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You can get about 11” of travel out of the setup I just mentioned before u joint bind. I’m the one who mentioned it. It’s because of the relatively low lift height you can do this. If you wanted to go 35s I’d suggest stock waggy leaves up front and spring over front and rear. But I would use a high pinion axle if you were keeping it leafs and going 35s and spring over. With radius arms I’d go high pinion front with a 3 link I think you could use either because you can control how much the pinion angle changes.
 
You jerks realize how much work you are creating for me? LOL

Thanks for pointing him in the right direction. There was a time I was interesting in offroading, but after the back injury and resulting surgery, bouncing around isn't near as appealing as it once was. A drive through the scrap yard is as exciting as my back can take anymore.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
You can get about 11” of travel out of the setup I just mentioned before u joint bind. I’m the one who mentioned it. It’s because of the relatively low lift height you can do this. If you wanted to go 35s I’d suggest stock waggy leaves up front and spring over front and rear. But I would use a high pinion axle if you were keeping it leafs and going 35s and spring over. With radius arms I’d go high pinion front with a 3 link I think you could use either because you can control how much the pinion angle changes.
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35s is what I've got my heart set on. It's one of the reasons I decided to the the SAS first. If I were to run them stock and then wheel it I'd probably end up breaking all kinds of things in the front end.

So correct me if I'm wrong, but but the advantages of running a 3/4 link is probably going to allow me more articulation, while the advantages of radius arms is going to be simplicity? I've researched this many times and I've only compiled a vague knowledge of the advantages of each and when they would be best utilized.

Edit: If I'm correct in my assumption here ill probably go 3 link with HP (just to be safe for futures sake, though I do understand I can adjust the pinion angle) and coils all around (just because). What all would I need for this route? I'm guessing most of it is the same as what you listed last time.

also I really appreciate you help I'd be lost if not for helpful informative individuals like yourself.
 
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JayrudWhyte said:
35s is what I've got my heart set on. It's one of the reasons I decided to the the SAS first. If I were to run them stock and then wheel it I'd probably end up breaking all kinds of things in the front end.

So correct me if I'm wrong, but but the advantages of running a 3/4 link is probably going to allow me more articulation, while the advantages of radius arms is going to be simplicity? I've researched this many times and I've only compiled a vague knowledge of the advantages of each and when they would be best utilized.

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Well it’s more of a matter of opinion on if a radius arm is a good as a 3/4 link front. I personally believe in 3 link over a radius arm, based on the geometry through its travel range. But without a doubt radius arms are stupid simple to do and can still have plenty of travel.

Rugged rocks also has a 3link frame side bracket kit. Sourcing your own link materials, track bar brackets, and link brackets(axle side) wouldn’t be hard. You could get away with the waggy axle if you work your link geometry good enough to keep the pinion in check. But a High pinion housing would make it so much easier.

Depending on how much uptravel you want will dictate if you’ve got to move stuff around under the hood and off the inner fenders. You can get a pretty decent shock tower in there without modifying too much, but do plate the frame rails.

I haven’t looked into linking the rear too much. I’d focus on getting the front done first, then your next stage of the build would be link the rear. Try to minimize down time so you can enjoy it. Divide it up into weekend projects, hone your skills building bumpers and sliders. A rear tire carrier wouldn’t be a bad idea because they are stupid expensive as well.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Well it’s more of a matter of opinion on if a radius arm is a good as a 3/4 link front. I personally believe in 3 link over a radius arm, based on the geometry through its travel range. But without a doubt radius arms are stupid simple to do and can still have plenty of travel.

Rugged rocks also has a 3link frame side bracket kit. Sourcing your own link materials, track bar brackets, and link brackets(axle side) wouldn’t be hard. You could get away with the waggy axle if you work your link geometry good enough to keep the pinion in check. But a High pinion housing would make it so much easier.

Depending on how much uptravel you want will dictate if you’ve got to move stuff around under the hood and off the inner fenders. You can get a pretty decent shock tower in there without modifying too much, but do plate the frame rails.

I haven’t looked into linking the rear too much. I’d focus on getting the front done first, then your next stage of the build would be link the rear. Try to minimize down time so you can enjoy it. Divide it up into weekend projects, hone your skills building bumpers and sliders. A rear tire carrier wouldn’t be a bad idea because they are stupid expensive as well.
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Well if I run 35s with a 3-link how much travel do you presume I'll have without moving things around? I think if I'm around 11"ish I should be satisfied for now, and then when I've actually completed the swap and have a deeper understanding of how my suspension will work I'll worry about moving things around.

Also, one last question before I stop pestering you, If I wanted to I could just find a center drop D44 and run 4-link, right? Not that I really care to it was just something I was wondering about.
 
Center drop?
 
JayrudWhyte said:
Well if I run 35s with a 3-link how much travel do you presume I'll have without moving things around? I think if I'm around 11"ish I should be satisfied for now, and then when I've actually completed the swap and have a deeper understanding of how my suspension will work I'll worry about moving things around.

Also, one last question before I stop pestering you, If I wanted to I could just find a center drop D44 and run 4-link, right? Not that I really care to it was just something I was wondering about.
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There are really too many variables to give you a solid answer for how much travel with 35s can you run with a 3 link. And as far as the centered d44 axle with steering knuckles on it, your oil pan is all in the way. It’s got a funky hump at the front of it, which is something I would recommend is pushing the front axle forward maybe 1-2” from factory positioning because the oil pan will limit your up travel.
 
What sort of budget are you working with? I say it’s cheaper to buy something that already has a solid front axle. Jeep, Land Rover, old Toyota, etc. A 3 link kit, brackets, and new leaf springs are going to be $$$

Or you could just grab a Jeep or something, throw in a budget boost in an afternoon’s time and go.


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NickMaul said:
What sort of budget are you working with? I say it’s cheaper to buy something that already has a solid front axle. Jeep, Land Rover, old Toyota, etc. A 3 link kit, brackets, and new leaf springs are going to be $$$

Or you could just grab a Jeep or something, throw in a budget boost in an afternoon’s time and go.


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I'm bringing in about 2100 a month and I have nothing but phone bill and insurance to pay which totals me $110.09 every month. Not a ton but since I don't have much to worry about financially it evens out in my opinion. I do love jeeps and I did look into a few other solid axle options, believe me I did my research, but ultimately the the Xterra ended up being the best option for me. I wanted something large enough for over-landing, small enough to be nimble on the trails and rocks, and relatively cheap but relaible. And the way things have worked out for me the past couple months, It doubles as my DD and currently my home (long story). And being that I'm 6'8 (yes really) it would be hard for me to sleep in a jeep... or much of anything else really. Hell, I can barely fit in a TJ.

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Land Rover Discovery and a WJ Grand Cherokee would have been great budget beaters with plenty of head room. Maybe leave the xterra stock for a while and keep searching . Not sure how you can have your bed and your DD down while you do an solid axle swap.
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