14bolt gears and guards

I'm sorry, it sucks to work second but it's when I surf! Didn't realize you were changing the bearings also. Was thinking that was high for the gasket, seal, crush sleeve, bolts and shims for pinion. As for the lithium, some people use white spray paint, I like to use 3M masking tape on the ring gear, run it around a few times and you know exactly where it's contacting.
 
im new to this whole regearing thing, dont know a damn thing about it. so im not sure what if one of those kits is what i need or not, but i was assuming so. but i guess there is a cheaper kit i can get... i think ill get that one
 
Dude... hunt around for a used carrier... put an ad on PBB or something. $200 for a carrier is fawking stupid expensive. You could buy two complete 14s for that.
 
I don't know for sure but when I bought my 5.13s dude at PORC.com told me they were all thick....if it was an open carrier? Anyway they gave me the best price around and are super cool to deal with. Got gears front and rear with installs $475 to my door, basic install for the front. Call them for a better price than whats on their site. As for 14bolt protection have you seen these? DIY4x I'm thinking about the yoke skid. I usually sell my open carries for around $40 but I don't have any right now.
 
On the Diff plates - I was just over at Carolina Rock Shop yesterday and Andy showed me the Rockcrusher diff plates he is selling now - they are awesome. He's got a good price too.

Stewart
 
quick question, how do i get the carrier out of the diff? ive got everything off the housing, i just cant seem to get the carrier out. it'll wiggle back and forth though.
 
take two crowbars, make an X with them, and put them in behind the carrier. with a little prying, it should come out. worst case you'll have to buy/make a case spreader. i've seen some pretty tight 14b's.
 
I have my own home built guard on my 14 bolt. I have the Greatlakes cover one on my front 60. Great lakes also has the brake brackets too, bolt on, perfect position for the caliper, easiest bolt on I ever bought. I have Seen Andys at CRS, definatly beefy. All are good choices in this instance. Also, concider your Pinion, with the 14 bolt low pinion, it does get banged up www.diy4x.com has some nice ones. I got one of his and Very happy with it. No more banging the U-joint and yoke on rocks.

It's a given you have the bug for this sport. I highly recomend getting yourself a welder. At the least, let it be known to those gift givers where and what you want. At the least they can help offset the cost with a gift card. Maybe even buy it. It is adictive, and can and will give you hours of enjoyment as well as save you tons of moolah in the future.
 
well i had a welder but apparently my dads company wasn't done with it yet (oh well). my dad and i are talking about getting another one soon, hopefully, and i just picked up a torch kit that came with 3 welding tips that will weld, or braze, whatever it is, up to 1/4" which will be nice to fool around with until we get another welder.

Ivan: thanks, i thought it was just a force thing, but i wanted to double check so i wouldnt break anything.
 
RufusTheRam said:
take two crowbars, make an X with them, and put them in behind the carrier. with a little prying, it should come out. worst case you'll have to buy/make a case spreader. i've seen some pretty tight 14b's.
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Ivan.... wtf are you talking about?

Back off the carrier adjusters. The carrier falls right out. :huggy:
 
welding with a torch is not the same as welding with a MIG or arc. totally different thing. you deffinantly want to get your hands on at least a decent arc welder. with practice you can make pretty good welds and it will weld thicker material than your average mig. and they are cheap
 

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mike, what you've described are the bearing caps. like shawn has said, the preload adjusters (what makes a 14b so easy to setup) have to come out also. it still may be stuck in there a little, out of the 6 14b's i've witnessed or been involved in the teardown of 2 fell out, 1 required some tugging by hand, and the other 2 required a little effort with the aforementioned crowbar method.
 
also, just how much does it wiggle back and forth (assuming you haven't backed off the preload adjusters)? if it's really anything at all, i hope you got a full install kit with your new gears (bearings and all).
 
it's good insurance with any axle that has over ~20-30k miles imo.
 
Bring it over here and let me chop it up!


Give you a good deal ,too.
 

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time for a hijack: my latest experience with a 14b:

f3b387da.jpg


those rosette welds apparently aren't worth a shank, and neither is running a radius arm setup in the rear. Rusty Nail in Moab spun my buddies 14b into oblivion. The cover is pretty tough though, 1/4" plate with a 3/8" flange.
 
Puma297 said:
time for a hijack: my latest experience with a 14b:

f3b387da.jpg


those rosette welds apparently aren't worth a shank, and neither is running a radius arm setup in the rear. Rusty Nail in Moab spun my buddies 14b into oblivion. The cover is pretty tough though, 1/4" plate with a 3/8" flange.
Click to expand...

damn thats funny..............how was ytour trip turd boy :flipoff2:
 
how can i tell if my "new" carrier has a detroit in it or not? from what i can tell it looks exactly the same as my old one, just without gears on it. i dont know if these pictures will help or not, but here they are anyway.
 

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the first one you have pictured has a detroit in it, you can see the springs through the holes in the carrier, if it was just an open carrier you would see the spider gears, if it was a govlock it would look like neither of the above with the holes in the side, and only have 3 crosspins instead of the 4

can't tell whether the 2nd one is open or locked because I can't see the side holes
 
i think its a picture of the same carrier lee. and yea mike, he is right thats a detroit in there :)
 
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