1996 S10 Blazer 4d SAS

96superflow

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Location
Cary/Raleigh, NC
Well here it is, my 96 s10 blazer solid axle swap.

Parts List
1989 Hpd30 4.10s
1998 Ford 8.8 4.10s
Sky's off road Design Hangar Kit
Rancho 44044's
RC Shocks
RC Stainless Steel Front Brake lines
92 S10 Np231 Output shaft
Cherokee Front Yoke and driveshaft

And the pics...

How it started... 2"Body and 31's
ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_0105091329.jpg


Parts
ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_0604091313.jpg


Rear
ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_0605091845.jpg


ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_Rearlift2.jpg


ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_RearLift1.jpg


Front
ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_Startingonthefront.jpg


ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_DSC00548.jpg


ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_DSC00553.jpg


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ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_DSC00610.jpg


ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_ShackleFix.jpg


ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_Axleunderneath1.jpg


ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_Flexing1.jpg


ai262.photobucket.com_albums_ii106_jah0721_Justbeforefinish3.jpg


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x2
 
Those welds don't look safe. I'd have someone weld over them...or grind them down and do them over.
 
Leavin the body lift on because it is going to get 35's when i need to buy tires.

And as far as the welds, yes they dont LOOK safe, but do you judge a book by its cover? The welds are strong, had my father looking on the other side of the metal and tap me on the shoulder when the inside was glowing. It was all done with an arc welder.
 
Leavin the body lift on because it is going to get 35's when i need to buy tires.

And as far as the welds, yes they dont LOOK safe, but do you judge a book by its cover? The welds are strong, had my father looking on the other side of the metal and tap me on the shoulder when the inside was glowing. It was all done with an arc welder.

Thats still not the prpoer method for welding. Do yourself a favor and pay someone to go over them. Just because you get the other side to glow doesnt' mean you have the proper penitration and strength in your welds.
 
I gotta ask why swap in a s/u D30?
 
take it as constructive criticism, don't think were just nockin' your ride. we just want you to wheel it hard and be SAFE doing it, cause its not cool to anyone if someone gets hurt out on the trails.

like the others have said, take it to a shop and have them grind the welds down and run a new bead over them just to be safe. and while they are there maybe you could get them to move the spring perches on the front for a spring-over so it matches the rear, looks like it has a bit of a rake so it could use it anyway, and it'll give you even more tire clearance!

and big bump for a diff ride, not to many ppl doing that to a blazer, props. :beer:

btw, don't worry about 1stgenxxx, he's just a dick. :flipoff2: j/k
 
^ Do explain.

As far as the d30 goes, my max tire size i was planning for with this build was 33's - 35's. Having the rancho lift springs up front allowed me to run it spring under to keep the steering issues to a minimum, and to match the rear it just needed the spring over.

I put an aal in the rear due to the stock s10 packs absolutely suck from the factory, this was after i did the rear spring over. It will settle out, the question is how much. Once i feel that they have broken in good, and if it still has a rake, ill go with a smaller lift shackle in the rear, Has a 3" in it now.

And i knew way before posting that i would get flack about the welds. I have seen very very pretty or looking proper welds fail, and i know yall are doing it constructively, i feel they are safe. My dad see's them in person and feels they are safe, and he is an experienced body man that has welded his fair share of frames.
 
btw, don't worry about 1stgenxxx, he's just a dick. :flipoff2: j/k


I was just messin...I was thinking back to a time when I swaped the hp30/D35 out for another hp30 and 35. Someone asked me "why in the hell would you bother putting another set of those in"?

They should be strong enought for a while but I'd say the width might make them a little unstable.

Fix the welds
 
Welding sheetmetal and structural steel are wayyyyy different.
 
^ Do explain.
and he is an experienced body man that has welded his fair share of frames.

Body men dont do just sheet metal. Yes thats a large part, and yes when i can get it on a lift and get my arc welder to it i will clean them up and make them pretty.

As far as stability goes, its not really tall at all. I do have no sway bars on it at the moment, but will be putting the factory one on the rear when it see's more street use. Ill customize one from a factory wrangler to go up front down the road.
 
Come on guys, I have seen much worse fab come from some regular members on this site.

I agree. Those welds are probably stronger than what the general put on that blazer from the factory anyhow.
 
just curious why didnt you do frame tubes in the front and do spring over? onstead of the way you did? I think its a pretty cool rig right now, but the SUA will kill you off road.
 
just curious why didnt you run frame tubes up front and do spring over, instead of how you did it? I think its a pretty cool rig :beer:, but the SUA is going to kill you offroad
 
NONE of this would've been necessary if you would just stay away from drainage culverts:fuck-you:

haha i was wondering when you were gonna comment on this shit! Heck this was already in my plans when i put it in that situation!
 
just curious why didnt you run frame tubes up front and do spring over, instead of how you did it? I think its a pretty cool rig :beer:, but the SUA is going to kill you offroad

Wanted to keep it simple. This was as simple as i know of.
 
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