2000 2.5l wrangler clutch install problems

CThurmond

CThurmond

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Location
china grove nc
I have a 2000 jeep wrangler in the shop with a 2.5l ax-5 np231.

I replaced the clutch
Bled the slave cylinder by pumping it by hand before install,no bubbles showed into MC.

When I go to drive the jeep it barely wants to go into 1-5 while sitting idling at a stop. It will not go into reverse.

I then tried to pump SC again by hand. And then installed and bled by having my buddy push the pedal down, i would open bled screw and close screw then he would release the pedal and check fluid. (did this about 20 times)

Still no reverse in jeep.

Have since replaced the SC and repeated those steps and still no reverse and harder then normal to get into 1-5.

Trans will shift fine while engine is off and will not move if you put it in geat then crank the vehicle(while clutch pedal is depressed,it will move fine when u release pedal.

Any help is appreciated im kinda stumped and dont see how the MC and SC arnt working right after a clutch job... Thanks

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did you replace only the clutch disc or the whole diaphram assembly?

the mc/sc setups on these jeeps are a pain. you normally have to "bench" bleed using a tall ladder
 
ckruzer said:
did you replace only the clutch disc or the whole diaphram assembly?

the mc/sc setups on these jeeps are a pain. you normally have to "bench" bleed using a tall ladder
Click to expand...
I replaced the clutch disc pressure plate and throw out bearing with a LuK kit.

Replaced slave after had no acess to any gears. After replaced slave nowni have 1-5 almost but not reverse

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bench bleed implies no longer attached to the vehicle.

best way to bleed with it it attached is a vacuum bleeder.
 
Vacuum bleed should work. If not you can borrow/rent a reverse bleeder from advance and purge it backwards from the slave up to the master cylinder. That works 100% of the time. I bet the air is trapped in a section of line that goes up and back down. Without either of those tools, you can pump the pedal till it gets stiff, then bleed, repeat unless pedal is stiff without pumping and bleed more. Took me an hour to do a Nissan pickup after changing both m&s cylinders because of the line configuration. Eventually got it though. And I bench bled the master prior to install
 
Remove the slave cylinder and push the plunger in fully by hand making sure to keep the line higher than the slave cylinder. DO NOT MESS WITH THE BLEEDER, IT IS USELESS.
 
a_kelley said:
Vacuum bleed should work. If not you can borrow/rent a reverse bleeder from advance and purge it backwards from the slave up to the master cylinder. That works 100% of the time. I bet the air is trapped in a section of line that goes up and back down. Without either of those tools, you can pump the pedal till it gets stiff, then bleed, repeat unless pedal is stiff without pumping and bleed more. Took me an hour to do a Nissan pickup after changing both m&s cylinders because of the line configuration. Eventually got it though. And I bench bled the master prior to install
Click to expand...

Forgot about the reverse bleeding!

Never have ever had to bench bleed #blessings. But all personal exp with people I know, they did a bench bleed using a tall ladder to get everything to the top.
 
I have bled the new Mc and Sc on the bench, in the car by the screw bleeder , and in the car by pushing manual on SC piston. Nothing is working

Cant find a bleeder for rent anywhere.

Any tricks would help please...

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Modify the reservoir cap to use a radiator pressure tester... Or take a long hose and attach to bleeder and fill with brake fluid, much higher than resi. Gravity will do the rest. Second option is reverse flush
 
I don't know how you would attach anything to the bleeder on the slave cylinder it is a set screw with a weep hole every time I open and close it I'm scared it's going to break


I know im not a genius but seems there should be a nicer way to do this considering clutch jobs are done on Jeeps every day.

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So it's not like a normal bleeder then? You should be able to bleed it by hand, pump up 6x, bleed, repeat x 35x.. I know some systems need to be bleed completely off the vehicle
 
I found a bleeder that i can suck air out from the MC by plugging into the small hole at bottom of resivor. Will that do the trick? Or will that destory the Mc

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GotWood said:
@Jody Treadway
Click to expand...
On TJ applications, the slave and master come as an assembly in most cases. There really isn't a reason NOT to it that way. That way there isn't any bleeding to do. Just bolt and go.
If it were me, I'd write off the initial purchase and go get a preassembled hydraulic assembly for future peace of mind.
 
Jody Treadway said:
On TJ applications, the slave and master come as an assembly in most cases. There really isn't a reason NOT to it that way. That way there isn't any bleeding to do. Just bolt and go.
If it were me, I'd write off the initial purchase and go get a preassembled hydraulic assembly for future peace of mind.
Click to expand...

x100. I fought this same problem for a week off and on with a xj. I finely bit the bullet and bought the set. In 15 minutes it was on the road. Hands down the best way.

Btw, rock auto is WAY cheaper than anyone else on theses kits. They currently have a wagner set for a 2000 tj for 44.79.
 
Are you getting enough throw at the slave cylinder? The problem may have nothing to do with the hydraulics.
 
shawn said:
Are you getting enough throw at the slave cylinder? The problem may have nothing to do with the hydraulics.
Click to expand...
x2. I had a clutch peddle that bent where it attaches to the master. That 1/4" of bend made it so the slave was not disengaging the clutch.
 
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