2000 2.5l wrangler clutch install problems

Jody Treadway said:
On TJ applications, the slave and master come as an assembly in most cases. There really isn't a reason NOT to it that way. That way there isn't any bleeding to do. Just bolt and go.
If it were me, I'd write off the initial purchase and go get a preassembled hydraulic assembly for future peace of mind.
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Very disappointed in your response. Maybe I got lucky with my TJ. I think I paid $20 for the sleeve cylinder and had it changed out and working in 30 min.
 
ghost said:
x2. I had a clutch peddle that bent where it attaches to the master. That 1/4" of bend made it so the slave was not disengaging the clutch.
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Yeah, or the fork came off the ball on the far side of the bellhousing, or the pilot bearing is fucked up, causing the input shaft to drag, or the boss of the input shaft is fucked up, causing it to drag, or the clutch disc didn't get installed correctly, or the pressure plate is fucked up, etc, etc, etc.

I mean, I've had the motor/trans out of the Jeep(s) a few times, and I don't think I've ever disconnected the slave from the master, so why would it suddenly not work after you put everything back together?
 
When I replaced mine I had to pump the clutch pedal probably 200 times, I believe they're self bleeding, I could be wrong. Either way, I pumped the pedal a ton and the pedal slowly got better.
 
GotWood said:
Very disappointed in your response. Maybe I got lucky with my TJ. I think I paid $20 for the sleeve cylinder and had it changed out and working in 30 min.
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Sometimes Lady Luck shines down upon me and the same thing happens. However Lady Luck has always given me good fortune when replacing the whole shebang.
Plus that way if somebody comes back a week later with the clutch master or line is leaking, I can get it warranted.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Sometimes Lady Luck shines down upon me and the same thing happens. However Lady Luck has always given me good fortune when replacing the whole shebang.
Plus that way if somebody comes back a week later with the clutch master or line is leaking, I can get it warranted.
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That's the difference between my junk and someone else's. You are smart for replacing the assembly for customer work.
 
every piece of cj/yj/tj info i have read over the past 3.5 years in my near nightly reading... the majority consensus has been that a whole prebled assembly is stupid cheap is the next best step if the first couple bleeds arnt working
 
All i can find at advanced auto is 178$ i dont do business with rockauto they have never gotten one part right for me.

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Issue ended up being LuK clutch kit was not correct. Everything installed correctly 3 times woth 3 different luk kits. Installed a duralast clurch and zero issue now.

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Wow I thought LUK had some good clutches? Was it something miss packaged? Or no idea?
 
Ive used atlwast 10 LuK clutches with zero issues on a 4.0 wrangler and cherokees but the kit for the 2.5 has wrong parts. I contacted LuK and they basically told me tough shit and they were right. They had no intention of looking into the problem.

But throw out bearing in the 01040 kit is .25 inchs to big on the inner diameter.

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