22r crankshaft removal

Discussion in 'General Tech' started by Black Bear, Apr 16, 2012.

  1. Black Bear

    Black Bear Well-Known Member Moderator

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    I have a spun rod bearing on #2, can the crank shaft be removed without pulling the motor?
     
  2. Chris_Keziah

    Chris_Keziah Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab

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    Yes but it will be a total pita. It'd be worth the time to pull it.
     
  3. Blkvoodoo

    Blkvoodoo professionally useless Moderator

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    Yep, yank the whole thing, you'll need to check number 3 crank bearing as well

    Sustained high rpms (4500+) cause an oil starvation issue, pretty common in the 20-22R engines without oil mods
     
  4. DAWGTOY

    DAWGTOY Well-Known Member

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    pulling the crank without pulling the engine would be a major pita. you would have to pull the trans
    out to get to the flywheel, then take off the rear main seal housing as well as the head and front cover.
    so you would be way ahead to pull the engine as a unit. depending on the damage you find you'll most
    likely have to have the crank turned or at least polished. put in new front and rear main seals while your
    into it.


    dawg
     
  5. DAWGTOY

    DAWGTOY Well-Known Member

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    blkvoodoo--- tell us more about the oiling mods you were speaking of.
     
  6. StretchASU

    StretchASU Well-Known Member

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    X2...there I know this guy that builds solid 22r's for some guys that don't know the meaning of the word "break-in". Might help those of us that continue to beat the damnit out of some old Toyotas keep them living a little longer.
     
  7. Blkvoodoo

    Blkvoodoo professionally useless Moderator

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    Basic stuff mostly, chamfering the journal ports on the crank, Cleaning up castings, a larger capacity oil pan helps too.

    Spin these engines hard enough and you pump all the oil to the top end pretty quick, toss in the bouncing and bucking of the vehicle and you start aerating the oil ( windage tray or crank scraper setup ) Knife edging and polishing of the counter weights

    Pretty much the same stuff you would do on a high speed race engine.

    Most folks run the piss out of the stock setup without regard too all the slippery stuff needed inside.
     
  8. DAWGTOY

    DAWGTOY Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the reply. where did you gain your knowledge? do you build
    engines on the side?

    dawg
     
  9. Blkvoodoo

    Blkvoodoo professionally useless Moderator

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    I've built a few 22r's, seen a few eaten with similar results as Black Bears

    Never built one to turn high rpm, didn't want to spend the money and time

    Have talked to a few who have though, just like any engine, it gets expensive quick when you start driving them over the designed operating range for extended periods
     
  10. Black Bear

    Black Bear Well-Known Member Moderator

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    I figured I wouldnt be saving any time.

    So #3 is suspect too? what about the thrust washer?

    I believe I had an oil starvation after the bearing spun, you can see the oil port marked into the broken bearing.
     
  11. DAWGTOY

    DAWGTOY Well-Known Member

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    #3 main bearing is where the thrust washers are located.
    they will fall out when you pull the crank. when you reassemble make sure
    they are turned the right direction---use a little assembly grease to
    hold em in place.

    dawg
     
  12. Blkvoodoo

    Blkvoodoo professionally useless Moderator

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    Also be sure you have the right set, there are thick and thin versions ( new and old versions of 22R) I have twice gotten the wrong bearing set, thin set in the newer 22R leaves you with end play that you could drive a truck thru.
     
  13. Black Bear

    Black Bear Well-Known Member Moderator

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    what are the cut off years for the thick vs thin washers?


    and i would assume that there really isnt a reason to pull the head unless i wanted to check things out.
     
  14. DAWGTOY

    DAWGTOY Well-Known Member

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    main bearing design change in early 82.
    hope this helps. i wouldn't pull the head--the lifting brackets are
    mounted to it. might as well wait till you've got it on a engine
    stand to pull the head.
    pulling it now won't tell you any more than you already know.
     
  15. Black Bear

    Black Bear Well-Known Member Moderator

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    #1 rod bearing on the connecting rod side came out in two pieces.

    All the rod and crank bearings show copper. I can take some pics, but am i looking at an oil starvation issue or simply age
     
  16. Blkvoodoo

    Blkvoodoo professionally useless Moderator

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    probably a little of both.

    did the #2 actually spin ? as in is one shell lapped over the other ?

    the copper is the inner make up of the bearing, the soft alloy outer is designed to wear away slowly. so some copper isn't all the surprising in an engine with any age.
     
  17. Blkvoodoo

    Blkvoodoo professionally useless Moderator

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    number one came out in 2 pieces as in, you have two half circles of bearing ? an upper and a lower , one should rest squarely in the cap, the other nest in the rod , the ends even with the matiing joint, and there should be a tang to keep it from spinning
     
  18. Blkvoodoo

    Blkvoodoo professionally useless Moderator

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    awww_substech_com_dokuwiki_lib_exe_fetch_php_f07515f631a23c0970773e8649af08c2._.png
     
  19. Black Bear

    Black Bear Well-Known Member Moderator

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    Yes #2 spun and overlayed.

    #1 came out in three pieces total. the cap bearing was one and two for the upper bearing. It broke at the oil passage.
     
  20. Blkvoodoo

    Blkvoodoo professionally useless Moderator

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    don't forget, when you lug the engine ( low RPM under load ) it beats on the bearings as well, if the oil is aerated it isn't affording the protection it is supposed too either

    oil starvation, basic abuse, age, all factors

    take some pics
     
  21. Black Bear

    Black Bear Well-Known Member Moderator

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    crank #1
    [​IMG]

    rod #2
    [​IMG]

    crank #2
    [​IMG]

    rod #1
    [​IMG]
     
  22. Chris_Keziah

    Chris_Keziah Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab

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    Hows the crank look? I imagine it's gonna need a little work.
     
  23. DAWGTOY

    DAWGTOY Well-Known Member

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    looks as if your crank will need turned for sure.
     
  24. Black Bear

    Black Bear Well-Known Member Moderator

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    #2 rod will have to be turned. the others im not so sure. The other journals are basically smooth, but there are some slight ridges or grooves similar to the lines in the bearings.
     
  25. Blkvoodoo

    Blkvoodoo professionally useless Moderator

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    have the whole crank turned and polished doing one journal is pointless ( if you can even find a shop that would do that )

    it's possible the journal ( or several ) are beyond any useable life, I'd at least start pricing new/replacements so you can weigh the cost versus machining.

    as for the rod(s), you're probably better of replacing it (them) as well, to resize will only make that rod weaker, especially if it was the cap that got damaged ( from the look of the bearings, this is the case ? ) without actually seeing the damage ( pics don't help much ) it's hard to tell exactly what would be needed

    I've got an '85 22RE core I'd let go of, but it does need to be rebuilt ( had a slight rod knock, possible wrist pin issue when pulled ) if that'll help at all
     

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