22r crankshaft removal

I have an 81 core here to rebuild as well, the plan is to rebuild the 81 or the 84 that i have in over the winter and add a turbo. I am really just doing the minimal i need to get back on the trails now. I'd like to have it back up and running before memorial day.

the plan is to get all the journals turned and polished. machine work is about 150 + bearings. Reman crank is 160 to 180 plus shipping and core.

I'l get some more pics of the crank and rod cap..
 
the spalling on #1 main looks unusual, could just be the pic, #1 rod looks serviceable, #2 rod journal looks rough, but could be turned and repaired if it measures out ok. there rest look pretty serviceable as well. mostly if #2 measures up and can be turned/polished out you should be ok,

how much damage the bearing spinning under the other shell may have stretched the rod cap and if there was any metal damage (and how much) on the cap side of the rod it could be possible to resize.

it's all in the measurements now
 
when you order the timing cover gasket set, get the one with the repair sleeve for the balancer ( if you look, there will probably be a groove where the seal rides ) if it hasn't already been done.
 
Blkvoodoo said:
when you order the timing cover gasket set, get the one with the repair sleeve for the balancer ( if you look, there will probably be a groove where the seal rides ) if it hasn't already been done.
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x2

Black Bear said:
should i bring the #2 rod to the machine shop?

#1 is where the oil groove is.. i thought it was odd too.
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I'd take the rod to them and see if they can fix it.
 
I'd take all 4 rods to be honest, so they can all be checked, the bearing coming out in 3 pieces on #1 may be a warning of a stretched bearing cap.

This is one of those deals where being cheap can be expensive.

I understand you don't want to put a lot of $$$ into this as it will be out again in a few months, but I'd hate to see you spend the coin on this only for it to come apart on the next trail ride because of something stupid.

I've been in this position, and it sucks, but you may be better off rebuilding the long block ( crank, bearings, rods, pistons, rings, boring/machining ) I went the other way on my last 22RE in the '90 Runner, and slapped a NEW LC head on it with cam and rocker assy, timing chain, blah blah, blah, it ran better, but it still wasn't right ( used oil, not enough to smoke, but it used it ) I'd had a couple reman heads drop valve seats out after about 10-15k of use, is why I went with the new head.
 
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