22r doesn't want the gas....

1stgenxxx

1stgenxxx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2005
Location
Hudson
Last night I put a new head gasket on my 22r. I set the timing and the truck cranked easy. The timing wasn't dead on but it ran pretty decent. I backed the truck out of the basement to keep from stinking up the whole house and once I made it outside it stalled out. I wasn't that concerned because it was 2am and I wanted to sleep. This morning I went down to mess with it and it wouldn't crank for shit. I pulled my switch panel out and was getting power...then I went to the coil. With the battery charger hooked to it I was getting 14v on the wire going into the distributor. Then I pulled a plug out and checked to see if I was getting fire. The test proved that I was getting fire but I don't know if I was getting enough fire. I tried gas and either, neither of which would even make the truck try to run.

What should I check next?
 
Try getting a junk plug and widen the gap a bunch. if you still got fire on it then you've got enough to at least make it run. My thoughts are timing though. You might also try putting some oil in the cyls. You may have washed off the oil coating on the cyl walls with it running rich on startup and now you ain't got no compression.
 
I'm not entirely sure how the 22r is...

did you leave the distributor loose when backing out of the garage? If so, the distributor can turn and get out of timing. I've had this problem with my CJ before and it wouldn't start until I got the timing pretty close.

Once again, if the 22r isn't set up like this, my bad...
 
22r has a groove in the dist that it has to stay in, I know what you mean though Rob. My guess is timing but I'm leaning a little more towards cam timing.
 
I thought that the timming could have somehow changed but I pulled the valve cover and the cam and crank are in sync with eachother. I pulled the distributor out and bositioned the rotor button at 12 o clock. I also looked to make sure the gear on the distributor was spinning with the cam...and it was.
 
rattlecanpaint said:
Try getting a junk plug and widen the gap a bunch. if you still got fire on it then you've got enough to at least make it run. My thoughts are timing though. You might also try putting some oil in the cyls. You may have washed off the oil coating on the cyl walls with it running rich on startup and now you ain't got no compression.
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It ran real rich on start up. I had the head off to the side for a while with the intake manifold and carb still attached. I t was laying on its side.
 
This is just a guess but you say the carb was on it's side as well? I had an issue of no starting once. I figured out it had air and spark so assumed some gizmo inside the carb was boogered.
Sure enough I disassembled the carb and found the point of the float needle stuck in it's bore. Maybe it sat sideways just long enough for some junk in the fuel to kinda "glue" it and now its jiving your flow
 
4X4Merc said:
This is just a guess but you say the carb was on it's side as well? I had an issue of no starting once. I figured out it had air and spark so assumed some gizmo inside the carb was boogered.
Sure enough I disassembled the carb and found the point of the float needle stuck in it's bore. Maybe it sat sideways just long enough for some junk in the fuel to kinda "glue" it and now its jiving your flow
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x2

I like the nostalgia of carbs, but they too often piss me off. :D

If its not making any sense, blame the carburetor.
 
mudder said:
x2

I like the nostalgia of carbs, but they too often piss me off. :D

If its not making any sense, blame the carburetor.
Click to expand...

Well the floats on the carb will open and close. So I should get some kind of reaction when I spray some either down it in?I don't even get that little "trying to start action". This just doesn't make sense to me seeing that I have spark.
 
I agree you should definitely get atleast one good fire in atleast one cylinder if you were spraying ether down in the carburetor and you have spark. Is there any reason why you said before your not sure if it was "enough" spark, like the color or did it sound weak or something?
 
ehhh the spark looked like normal ole spark to me. If the timming was off and other elements were in line then I should get a puff back through the carb or backfire somethis eh? I gues it's time to call in someone who knows what they are doing more so than me. I wanting to wheel the farm this weeeknd but it's looking like thats not going to happen
 
I talked with someone at school and said that it could be borewash and he said that would be something to look into. Would bore wash cause it to not take the fuel at all? It seems to me like it would still try to start......However. I had a chainsaw that I ran ethanol gas in(not mixed for the ethanol) and it scared the cylinder walls so bad that it wouldn't even try to start. It only had around 30lbs when it needed around 120 or 150lbs of compression.
 
Shouldn't really matter if you were trying to start it with ether. Maybe you weren't spraying enough? If you were then that about rules out the fuel system.

Go back and make sure that your #1 cylinder is at tdc on it's compression stroke then make sure the cam gear mark is facing up and the distributor/rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire position. Something might have moved?
 
Bore wash is what I was talking about. You said it ran rich when if first started so that means you have a lot of unburned fuel in the cyls washing the oil coating off the cyl walls. Adding starting fluid to the mix probably helped do that too. Pull your plugs and squirt some oil into each cyl. I bet it will start. I did the same thing on my 3.4 on my 4runner when the timing belt tensioner bolt came out. I'd cranked on it so long and using starting fluid etc that once I had the new timing belt set on it, it still wouldn't start. A little oil in the cyls and it smoked like my mother in law for a few minutes, but it started right up. Older BMWs do this a lot if the owner starts it up and moves it out of the driveway or just drives to the store down the block without getting it warm.
 
braxton357 said:
Shouldn't really matter if you were trying to start it with ether. Maybe you weren't spraying enough? If you were then that about rules out the fuel system.

Go back and make sure that your #1 cylinder is at tdc on it's compression stroke then make sure the cam gear mark is facing up and the distributor/rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire position. Something might have moved?
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It's dead on. I'm going to check and see if the intake valves are opening...
 
do you have good compression? if it ran real rich the plugs may be fouled, I dont think it is bore wash I think it is somthing simple you are not seeing. if it ran and you didnot hear anything brake then it should be somthing simple, if it was somthing mechanical then you would have had to brake somthing or it would never have run.
 
rattlecanpaint said:
Bore wash is what I was talking about. You said it ran rich when if first started so that means you have a lot of unburned fuel in the cyls washing the oil coating off the cyl walls. Adding starting fluid to the mix probably helped do that too. Pull your plugs and squirt some oil into each cyl. I bet it will start. I did the same thing on my 3.4 on my 4runner when the timing belt tensioner bolt came out. I'd cranked on it so long and using starting fluid etc that once I had the new timing belt set on it, it still wouldn't start. A little oil in the cyls and it smoked like my mother in law for a few minutes, but it started right up. Older BMWs do this a lot if the owner starts it up and moves it out of the driveway or just drives to the store down the block without getting it warm.
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You win.......I squrted some oil in vyl 1 and 2 and it hit like a champ. I wasn't sure how to get the oil to coat the walls but I guess it worked. I took a 20oz drink bottle and made a small hole in the cap so that it would squrt.
 
1stgenxxx said:
You win.......I squrted some oil in vyl 1 and 2 and it hit like a champ. I wasn't sure how to get the oil to coat the walls but I guess it worked. I took a 20oz drink bottle and made a small hole in the cap so that it would squrt.
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So it started?
 
It tried to.......my timming is way off now. something strange is goin on.
 
When the crank is a top dead center the cam should be at about at about the 11:30 mark, not quite 12. They are very easy to get off....but it should still run, just not too good. Distributor is pretty self explanatory, generally they like to be right about in the middle of the adjustment.
 
CarolinaTruggies said:
When the crank is a top dead center the cam should be at about at about the 11:30 mark, not quite 12. They are very easy to get off....but it should still run, just not too good. Distributor is pretty self explanatory, generally they like to be right about in the middle of the adjustment.
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Do you mean that the rotor button should be at 11:30? Mine is pointing at the number one plug on the cap. If you set it to 12 then it will turn its self to number 1 or around 11 o clock when it slides into the gear on the cam.
 
my rotor button isn't returning to the number one cylinder position on the rotor cap when the motor is at top dead center......hhmmmm
 
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