And though it's rare it is possible to have a pickup and module bad, but the pickup requires distributor disassembly so bolt a module on it and try that first, it takes a few minutes.
Still no injector spray during cranking. I picked up a new pickup while i was at the store. Should I go ahead and install this or there is another avenue that I need to look at?
Does it have a spark at the coil and no inj spray, or nothing at all. If nothing at all then the pickup may be bad too. Redo the two tests can confirm the new module is triggering.
The distributor should fire the coil even with no computer, so if there's no spark still and no injection then the issue is in the distributor, and all that's left is a bad new module or the pickup.
I've seen a bad coil or open plug wire back feed and burn up everything before.
Ok, so I think I have a short in the connectors that run from the ignition coil to the distributor. If I manipulate that wire I can get both injectors to spray but the TBI is not open. The ports stay closed and won’t allow the gas to flow into the TBI.
Ok, so I think I have a short in the connectors that run from the ignition coil to the distributor. If I manipulate that wire I can get both injectors to spray but the TBI is not open. The ports stay closed and won’t allow the gas to flow into the TBI.
If the two wire short harness from the coil to the distributor ignition module have a bad connection then it will not do anything, spark or fuel, as the small red wire is the power for the module.
Check for voltage, look for bent pins, broke wires etc.
Is there a spark at the coil? Or are you just checking at a plug. It's possible the coil wire is bad or the rotor button, that would have spark at the coil but not the plug. Check that. If it's firing injectors then the pickup, and module are working.
There is no vacuum line for idle. The idle air control motor will open or close to control idle speed, the throttle plates will stay closed. Fuel can get by the throttle plates.
I am checking for spark at the plug end. New plugs and new wires. Wires are out of a V8 ford bc I needed 45^ wires to clear the headers. Wire from the coil to the cap is older. Rotor button is new as well. What’s the easiest way of checking spark at the distributor cap?
Just un plug the wire from the center of the cap and check it there with an old plug. Or take the wire off the coil and check it directly. You can use a test light. Ground it to the engine, not the battery, make sure it's grounded by seeing if it lights when you touch positive. Have someone spin engine over while you hold the pointy end 1/4 to 1/2 inch from coil tower. If it doesn't spark then there's more checking to do. Try not to touch any metal with any part of your body if you use a test light just to prevent a shock, but we do it at work all the time. If it's grounded good the high voltage will go to ground through the light.
If it's firing injectors then the pickup and module are OK, you've got a bad coil, bad wiring or bad plugwire or cap or rotor. That's why you need to check at the coil itself to try to narrow this down.
Also as said earlier make sure the tach wire isn't grounded even though it isn't hooked up. A grounded tach wire will cause a no spark like @Carver Dave said but it will still fire injectors.
Alright using my test light, I’m not getting any spark at the ignition coil post. Test light is grounded to the engine ground. I also tried using a spark plug from the coil to the center post on the distributor. No spark. Tach wire is not grounded and not hooked up.
Wit the key on, I have verified that I have power being delivered to the coil using a test light and touching the red/white wire plug coming from the harness. Red has power, white does not. I then checked two prong wire that runs from the coil to the distributor. I have power present at both wires that plug into the distributor.
Ok. Got spark now. The two prong wire from coil to the cap has a definite short in it. After twisting the wire around I got spark at the coil with the test light
Alright using my test light, I’m not getting any spark at the ignition coil post. Test light is grounded to the engine ground. I also tried using a spark plug from the coil to the center post on the distributor. No spark. Tach wire is not grounded and not hooked up.
Ok. Got spark now. The two prong wire from coil to the cap has a definite short in it. After twisting the wire around I got spark at the coil with the test light
OK good. Pull it off and inspect it thoroughly. Try pulling on the wires to see if they are broken inside the insulation. Look for bent pins too. Worst case scenario you can buy that little pigtail harness online. Or in a junkyard.
New two prong wire from coil to cap. Have constant spark. Still doesn’t start. Have good fuel spray but gas is coming out of the exhaust now. Spark plugs are soaked with gas. Pulled the plugs and letting everything air dry now. I’m thinking the timing is 180 off with the exhaust valves opening during compression. If I remember correctly I need to set cylinder 1 to TDC and then rotate the rotor to point to plug 1 on the cap. That involves removing the distributor from the engine and turning it by hand. Am I missing anything else? To recap, have good fuel, air and spark. Tach wire is not grounded. My oil pressure switch is not hooked up, I need to get a new oil pressure gauge. Could that be the issue? There is no presence of a oil pressure connection in the wiring harness.
As long as it has a fuel pump Relay it doesn't need the oil pressure switch, they work in parallel. I haven't had an ops since I installed my system in 2007.
If it's spraying fuel and sparking it'll start now, but it's likely either flooded from screwing with it or out of time.
Let it dry out, unplug the coil and injectors and spin it over a bit with plugs out to get all the fuel out of the cylinders. Bump the engine over until you feel compression building on cyl 1 then line up the timing marks on balancer. Pull cap and verify rotor points at the terminal for the number 1 plug wire. If so reassemble and crank.
If it ran before all this and you haven't turned the distributor it shouldn't be out of time I bet it's just flooded now.
FYI injection works like a carb in that if you hold the gas down while cranking it cuts the fuel back and goes into clear flood mode.
Good god man! He's having problems with two injectors and one coil and you want him to go to 8 and 8...[emoji23]
He's got it licked now I think. Sad part is if I'd been there we could have had this fixed in a hour or two, but playing message tag on the forum has drawn it out.
Only good thing is I've been so slow at work the last two days I've been able to camp out online on my phone, thank god I'm salaried not flat rate!
Motor has never run in person for me. Bought it off the board. So pulled the plugs and let it dry. Verified that the rotor is at TDC on cylinder 1. Reassembled. Tried to start and got a good fireball out of the drivers side exhaust and a smaller one out of the TBI. Still won’t turn over and run. Pretty stumped right now.
Make sure plug wires are in the right order, I think it's 1-6-5-4-3-2, but double check. Unplug the timing connector (single wire usually tan/black) and check timing while cranking anywhere between 0 and 10 btdc will let it start.
Fireballs are a good sign, that means you have fuel and fire now [emoji23]
. Pretty stumped right now.