44 or 60

madJeepJ10

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2009
Location
Marion
there is a front axle i am looking at its a 8 lug j10 axle and on thr top of it it has a 6 on it dose that mean its a 60 or is it just a 44 with 8 lug hubs
 
yall got to over look me i am slow ok all i know is yall say i need biger axles to run what i got so i am trying to do what yall say sorry for being slow lol thank you i dont know what to look for on google this is my google thats y i am on here is to learn from the ones that know so help done pick and i know yall are just kidding with me also. so its now a 60 ok i will keep looking
 
Here's an way way for you to tell. If it has ball joints ( look for the big nut on top of the knuckle) its a 44. If it has kingpins (4 1/2" bolts on top of knuckle) its a 60.

Disclaimer- J trucks NEVER came with a front 60, just HD D44s in the J20s.
My reply is relative to the period the J trucks were built. I'm quite aware of BJ 60s...
 
thank you jody and the sad part is you told me that already lol i am still young so i dont listen well
 
Can I make the rubi 44s and 37s work out or should I just stay with 33s or 35s
 
Depends on how hard you hammer on it! :)

A Rubi 44 still has smallish unit bearings and smallish balljoints. Not to mention the knuckle and "C" size is still small. If you go to bashing it into rocks and holes, it wont hold up. If you wheel with some finesse, Rubi 44s with full alloys and knuckle gussets will probably be fine on 37s.

My advice would be...Sell the Rubi. (Probably could sell it for enuff to buy a waggy 44 and chromo axles!) Use the money to find, at least, a 44 that uses wheel bearings and spindles. These are stronger (remember a Rubi 44 is essentially a Dana 30 with a Dana 44 ring and pinion). Something such as a Waggy 44 with alloy axles, and good ball joints, you will be strong enuff for all but the roughest of wheeling on 37s!
 
Thanks for the info. May just stick with smaller I don't really wheel to hard but , I have been known to get a wild hair once in a while.
 
ol'Jeeps said:
Depends on how hard you hammer on it! :)

A Rubi 44 still has smallish unit bearings and smallish balljoints. Not to mention the knuckle and "C" size is still small. If you go to bashing it into rocks and holes, it wont hold up. If you wheel with some finesse, Rubi 44s with full alloys and knuckle gussets will probably be fine on 37s.

My advice would be...Sell the Rubi. (Probably could sell it for enuff to buy a waggy 44 and chromo axles!) Use the money to find, at least, a 44 that uses wheel bearings and spindles. These are stronger (remember a Rubi 44 is essentially a Dana 30 with a Dana 44 ring and pinion). Something such as a Waggy 44 with alloy axles, and good ball joints, you will be strong enuff for all but the roughest of wheeling on 37s!
Click to expand...

Depends on the rubicon axles, which by his handle that's a JK body style paint color, if they are the JK style the only thing they are lacking is tubing and balljoints ain't the best. I'll put any jk d44 ring and pinion to any other d44 ring and pinion. Don't believe me look up the pinion comparison pictures, new style rubi d44 pinion are the same diameter of a d60 just not as long. 5.38 gears are no problems people have only been popping the ring gears not the opinions and that's with 37+ tall tires and heavy 2 door or 4 door JKs. Just tacking the caps on a JK d44 front axle can easily handle 37s, mine has been through claw hammer on 37s on stock shafts front and rear without a problem. Granted I'm not a throttle jockey but I questioned the bigger u joint size of the JKd44.
 
I've wheeled mine (Waggy 44) pretty hard and only broken one alloy stub shaft in ten years. With 36s
 
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iwaxmyjimmy said:
... I'll put any jk d44 ring and pinion to any other d44 ring and pinion.
Click to expand...

No one said anything about ring and pinion size. Ring and pinions are the same size! (I have built many 44s!)

Its the smaller knuckles and 'C's and the unit bearings that are weaker than an older waggy style 44.
 
ol'Jeeps said:
No one said anything about ring and pinion size. Ring and pinions are the same size! (I have built many 44s!)

Its the smaller knuckles and 'C's and the unit bearings that are weaker than an older waggy style 44.
Click to expand...

C gussets make the world of difference and welding some on loosens up the ball joints a good bit to replace with some synergy ones. I've done this plenty of times.

And yes there is a difference in the ring and pinions, mainly the pinion gear. Just google it and you will see the differences. Not bullshitting you do some research, you haven't built a JK or generation 2 Dana 44 yet.

The knuckles actually have a bigger opening to allow for a larger joint, 1350 I believe, which the rubicon d44 came with. I haven't seen any knuckles break yet on a JK 44. Which I could see mine failing faster with ,y high steer setup on factory JK knuckles but again been through a few hammer trails without an issue when I was stationed in California.

The stubs in the JK44 are 32 spline and much larger than the 16 spline waggy 44 stubs. So that's a change in a good direction

The unit bearings can go bad and aren't serviceable but they seem to be holding up fine but they don't really like a low back spaced (under 4") wheel. Anything around 4 1/4" back spacing will keep 37s out of the frame on a JK but pushing the front axle forward an inch or 1 1/2" helps a whole lot more if you're running close to factory bumpstops.

His is in a new '15 JK, C gussets, good quality ball joints and he will be just fine on 37s. I know because I've done it and continue to do so. Same front axle same body style jeep. RCV shafts are over kill for 37s and 90% of people can get by with regular chromoly axle shafts.

I'll help you out:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1446148230.940476.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1446148243.292175.jpg


The rear JK d44 has problem with bending flanges, only two companies warranty it, Ten Factory and the G2 guys. The JK lockers are strong as hell when locked, their only downfall is the magnets can go bad over time.
 
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1446148897.441987.jpg

Top is a JKd44 front shaft, bottom is a d30 shaft. Both are factory so again don't say that it's just a different center section. When there are a lot more differences.
 
LOL!

Nice write up. :rolleyes: You obviously have read all the articles on JK axles

BUT...

You're still focusing on the ring and pinions. (and what ever all that other fluff was about the rear axle flanges and lockers. This thread isnt about rear Dana 44s! :shaking:) I never, once, brought up ring and pinion strength in my original post! Never said it was an issue! I don't care about the pinion size or any of that stuff in this thread. Properly set up ring and pinions on any 44 front generally aren't what breaks! It's the axles or the housings! (...and some cross pins!)

Once you go to alloy axles, they don't break as often. But still can be broken. And unless you invest in super joints, its generally not the axle that breaks anyway. It's the joint that breaks and then breaks the ears on the axles. No matter what model of Dana 44. And you can add RCVs and the ring and pinion will probably still be there after the unit bearing or knuckle breaks off! My experience is this... In respect to hammering on Dana 44s. I have seen many broken unit bearing knuckles, ball-joints, 'C's, and unit bearings! I cant remember the last time I saw a spindle or older style 44 knuckle broken. Even with the added leverage of high steer arms!

My point, if you had been paying attention, was that the axle assembly itself is weaker than the older spindle type dana 44 front ends. The 'C' and the knuckle is smaller. Unit bearing assemblies are weaker than wheel bearing type spindle assemblies. And, if you had read it. I mentioned the gusseting as helping the newer axles. Again, I said nothing about the ring and pinions!

Here is my post again, if you would like to read it this time before you start arguing a point that wasnt even brought up!

ol'Jeeps said:
Depends on how hard you hammer on it! :)

A Rubi 44 still has smallish unit bearings and smallish balljoints. Not to mention the knuckle and "C" size is still small. If you go to bashing it into rocks and holes, it wont hold up. If you wheel with some finesse, Rubi 44s with full alloys and knuckle gussets will probably be fine on 37s.

My advice would be...Sell the Rubi. (Probably could sell it for enuff to buy a waggy 44 and chromo axles!) Use the money to find, at least, a 44 that uses wheel bearings and spindles. These are stronger (remember a Rubi 44 is essentially a Dana 30 with a Dana 44 ring and pinion). Something such as a Waggy 44 with alloy axles, and good ball joints, you will be strong enuff for all but the roughest of wheeling on 37s!
Click to expand...
 
ol'Jeeps said:
LOL!

Nice write up. :rolleyes: You obviously have read all the articles on JK axles

BUT...

You're still focusing on the ring and pinions. (and what ever all that other fluff was about the rear axle flanges and lockers. This thread isnt about rear Dana 44s! :shaking:) I never, once, brought up ring and pinion strength in my original post! Never said it was an issue! I don't care about the pinion size or any of that stuff in this thread. Properly set up ring and pinions on any 44 front generally aren't what breaks! It's the axles or the housings! (...and some cross pins!)

Once you go to alloy axles, they don't break as often. But still can be broken. And unless you invest in super joints, its generally not the axle that breaks anyway. It's the joint that breaks and then breaks the ears on the axles. No matter what model of Dana 44. And you can add RCVs and the ring and pinion will probably still be there after the unit bearing or knuckle breaks off! My experience is this... In respect to hammering on Dana 44s. I have seen many broken unit bearing knuckles, ball-joints, 'C's, and unit bearings! I cant remember the last time I saw a spindle or older style 44 knuckle broken. Even with the added leverage of high steer arms!

My point, if you had been paying attention, was that the axle assembly itself is weaker than the older spindle type dana 44 front ends. The 'C' and the knuckle is smaller. Unit bearing assemblies are weaker than wheel bearing type spindle assemblies. And, if you had read it. I mentioned the gusseting as helping the newer axles. Again, I said nothing about the ring and pinions!

Here is my post again, if you would like to read it this time before you start arguing a point that wasnt even brought up!
Click to expand...

Obviously you want to turn this into a pissing contest and to each their own.

You stated for a member with a JK put a waggy Dana 44 under his JK. Granted it wasn't the original poster and I did comment on this thread to correct your misinformation you were passing onto someone about their JK. That is the whole reason why I said my peace about the pros and also cons of the JK Dana 44. Now if you want to get into how his brand new JK will go into limp mode with only 2 wheel speed sensors then please tell me your fix for it.

I'm sorry you haven't had any experience with gen 2 Dana 44s and saying things are the same when I provided you with pictures from "articles" I've read or research I've done. Not the shafts I've tacked the caps on and ran through some pretty good trails out in California with stock shafts and 37s or the rear axle-shafts I've had to replace from bent flanges that is very common on JK rear Dana 44s. Or the guessers I've welded on or pretty much all of these axles I've worked on for people using the JK axles that the anvil guy was asking about.

I'm sorry unit bearings are for the devil and you have more knowledge on any Dana 44 that you dismiss anything anyone has to say about their first hand experience with the JK platform or their axles. You win, pat yourself on the back for showing the world you know "all Dana 44s have the same size gears" without knowing wtf you were talking about when it came to someone jeep who asked if he could run 37s on it.
 
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