84 Toyota cab swap ?

Thanks, I was under the impression the rear cab mounts were the only thing that needed to be changed for a 2nd gen truck swap, and what does "alot more stuff " include ?, I'm not gonna do it if it's not cheap or easy, assuming I can get a somewhat decent cab for a good price. I can rob almost everything from my reg cab, fenders, doors, dash, etc. if I can find a shell of an extracab and it will be a beater.
 
The front mounts will be close enuff to use, but will need to make a rear mount. heavy angle iron (3x3) works good. And you will need a short body lift to clear gas tank, 1-1.5 inch. other than that, its pretty simple. ive helped a buddy do a 84 excab on a 80 single frame and it was easy. Still got to get you some pics of that body. ive been swamped at work and just havent had time
 
I'd rather not do the bodylift, I might havta keep the old cab and try to straighten the A pillar instead. I'll call you and maybe I can come down there this weekend, I might still remember how to get there.
 
Dont be scared of the body lift. If you do it right, it wont affect anything else. Figure out how much body lift you need to clear the gas tank. Put the lift blocks on the core support and front cab mounts. Since you have to make rear mounts anyways, just weld those in at the new height. A 1.5" body lift will allow you to weld sliders straight to the frame without having to notch the rocker. 1.5" body lift will also provide to opportunity to order a transfer case skid from budbuilt with 1.5" drivetrain lift. That would give you 5" extra belly clearance over the stock transfer case crossmember. The 1.5 body lift will also let you tuck your exhaust up a little bit more.

When I did my cab swap, I wanted to stick with a 1" body lift. The gas tank just wouldnt clear. I ended up with a 2" body lift. I now have a flat belly. The body lift let me do so much more between the frame and body. My intermediate bed mount is now a piece of 2x2 tube with shock mounts welded to it. I also tucked my reciever hitch way up higher. My sliders are 2x3 tube and are welded straight to my frame without having to notch my rockers.
 
mommucked said:
Thanks, I was under the impression the rear cab mounts were the only thing that needed to be changed for a 2nd gen truck swap, and what does "alot more stuff " include ?, I'm not gonna do it if it's not cheap or easy, assuming I can get a somewhat decent cab for a good price. I can rob almost everything from my reg cab, fenders, doors, dash, etc. if I can find a shell of an extracab and it will be a beater.
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nothing worth doing is ever cheap and easy randy .on a real note I would be careful with the body lifting those things can bring on all sorts of little gremlins if not very well thought out or executed. I would definitely try and mock it up real good before making anything permanent then checking steering joints brake lines wiring making sure you have enough slack to account forframe and body flex shifter function.but I have never done a body lift or cab swap on them yota so I don't know any specific issues you will run into
 
If the BL is only 1-1.5", then almost all of the usual things that get out of whack w/ a BL aren't a problem, it's small enough that there's enough flex.
Aside from the lift built into a Budbuilt belly pan, you can add matching spacers to the engine mounts to bring it back up to level.

Frankly I wouldn't think twice about the lift part.
Note - you can make the lift cheap by buying a foot of UHMW plastic and cutting it into pucks w/ a miter saw.
Just be sure to use grade 8 bolts, thats not a place to cheap out :D
 
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