94' Toyota Build

TSF

TSF

Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Location
charlotte
Well, I purchased this from a member on here for $1600 + $400 for delivery.
The body style I wanted, plus the SAS that was already done to it ;)
I have been working on this for around 5 months now, and have not got too much done, but things are going to be speeding up. I figured I would post it here because I do a lot of business here with many members & would like to go pound on some rocks with the locals :D

Current Specs:
150k Miles
SAS w/ 83' toyota front
Standard Cab
Stock 4:10's


Accomplished So far:
Brand New Windshield
Removed bed & cleaned up rear frame
Black 350Z Seats
RuffStuff Hiem Steering Setup
New Rear Brake Drums/Backplating/Axle Shafts
3" TG Springs front & rear
TG High Steer Kit
Ubolt flip kit front & rear
Chromoly front birds
1.5" front spacers
4 12" foa air shocks

Things I need (If you have let me know!):
89-95 Regular cab bed
Driver & Passenger Doors
 
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Pics:
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Now, the main thing right now is to get this truck street legal.
So what I need to do is get the steering done correctly (steerings arms drilled) etc.
I need tail lights, front corner lights. I fixed the windshield, & I am going to be picking up a new bed hopefully soon.

So basically its just getting this thing ready for the road at the moment. After that is the sexy stuff =)
Pics above are when I first got it, & goofing off on the trails behind my house.
 
i got a set of locked and armored yota axles with close kuckels. if your wanted them. they r for sell.
 
What size are those tires now?
If you are seriously thinking about bigger than a 35 I would skip the 4.88s and just go right to the 5.29s.
 
31's currently. I was thinking 5:29's too but I want to keep it streetable to drive to the trails. How to do 5:29's work on this road?
 
5.29 and 35s will put you almost back in the stock powerband. I am about to go with 33s and 5.29s. Mine will rev a little higher on the highway but will be easier on the clutch offroad and around town. I may end up with 35s IF they will fit.
 
sgtbriangreen said:
5.29 and 35s will put you almost back in the stock powerband. I am about to go with 33s and 5.29s. Mine will rev a little higher on the highway but will be easier on the clutch offroad and around town. I may end up with 35s IF they will fit.
Click to expand...

You can make 35's fit, just takes some cuttin and weldin. Just have to cut and make a new panel at the firewall.
 
Went to junk yard & picked up some new rear end full axle shaft to brake drum assemblies for both sides today. My backplates were rusted all to shit so I figured I might as well knock those out.
 
sgtbriangreen said:
5.29 and 35s will put you almost back in the stock powerband. I am about to go with 33s and 5.29s. Mine will rev a little higher on the highway but will be easier on the clutch offroad and around town.
Click to expand...

ya, I found that my fuel economy and power was better w/ it being overgeared than undergeared. The 22re makes the most power in the 3k range. I'm running 5.29s a/ 33s on an Auto and it's good, it was great w/ only 32s (but remembert he a/t is geared differently)
 
Just got home from getting my steering arms drilled out to 7/8". Not 100% the best looking but it will work.
 
Just picked up some primer and an electric sander. Sanded down the passenger door and fender to test it out. Did really well for a cheapo sander. Primered the door once, let it dry, & painted half of it to see how it comes out. Going with flat black first then going to do a desert tan color possibly.
 
Flat colors hide dents well. I'd advise you to take the hood off when you paint it if using rattle cans. Reason bein is the over spray will leave a odd looking texture and its hard to get coverage.


Sent from my smart box using Tapatalk
 
Got the cab, doors, & fenders painted so far. Going to take off the hood tomorrow & paint it as recommended by Redneck92.

Lined up the steering that I have until the new piece gets in, took it down the road and it didn't do too well. I was told to set the tow in 1/4".
Basically the front tires angle 1/4" inward and the back of the front tires 1/4" outwards.

Any thoughts on what the best method is to do steering? Like aligning it and stuff.
 
Well, been a few days, & sorry for the delay on pictures but I got a few olders on and & I took some last night. Apologies for the shitty cellphone pics.

Picked up some new steering arms from a local guy here on the board. Thanks for an excellent price! Really helped me out a lot!
Pulled out the carpet yesterday & washed it, going to paint it with upholstery paint and clean it up real good.
Also got my new bar in from RuffStuff with the right measurements this time since I screwed them up the last time.

Buddy stopped by earlier & took the steering arms with him, & hes going to drill them out for me to fit the RuffStuff Hiems.
So the truck is coming along, next will be tires, springs, RuffStuff HID's & Corbaeu suspension seats!

Here is when I took the bed off:
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Washed up
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Wire Wheeled & took a brush to the frame, then painted it
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Sanded & primered the truck, still have to do the bed
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RuffStuff Steering
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Working on cleaning up the interior a bit
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Pic before I painted the truck & took off the bed. This is when I got the first steering & test drove it down to the gas station.
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Damien from Mobs Fab came out yesterday & welded up my front spring hanger on the passenger side. Also helped me make sure the steering was aligned & checking over things to see what could cause the wobble I get between 30-40 mph.

Thanks Damien!
 
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