99 power stroke low on power :-(

So now that the turbo is working and I'm getting full fuel pressure I have a noise after a hard pull and I let off the pedal I get a loud and quick "swish" sound. Could that be the waste gate opening? I thought it was a boost leak but I can't find any issues with the boots. The truck is running damn awesome now!
 
So now that the turbo is working and I'm getting full fuel pressure I have a noise after a hard pull and I let off the pedal I get a loud and quick "swish" sound. Could that be the waste gate opening? I thought it was a boost leak but I can't find any issues with the boots. The truck is running damn awesome now!
That's called compressor surge. Typical. Make a wicked wheel to solve that issue. Just for reference you didn't make any changes to the fuel side of the system, only oil.
 
So now that the turbo is working and I'm getting full fuel pressure I have a noise after a hard pull and I let off the pedal I get a loud and quick "swish" sound. Could that be the waste gate opening? I thought it was a boost leak but I can't find any issues with the boots. The truck is running damn awesome now!
what is your fuel psi & boost psi
you say you now got full pressure did you check them ??
 
That's called compressor surge. Typical. Make a wicked wheel to solve that issue. Just for reference you didn't make any changes to the fuel side of the system, only oil.

Yep, wicked wheel fixed mine..
 
The ww2 is much better than the old wicked wheel. I picked up a fair amount more boost and some whistle from the turbo plus no compressor surge. While you're in there delete the ebp valve and the AIH. Reroute the crank case vent so no more oil in the turbo and run it to the back to vent. Clean the turbo & Y plenum while installing the new wicked wheel 2 and your turbo will love you.

There are a bunch of small upgrades that will help it along but don't expect it to be a racer,however it will tow and tow and tow.
 
The ww2 is much better than the old wicked wheel. I picked up a fair amount more boost and some whistle from the turbo plus no compressor surge. While you're in there delete the ebp valve and the AIH. Reroute the crank case vent so no more oil in the turbo and run it to the back to vent. Clean the turbo & Y plenum while installing the new wicked wheel 2 and your turbo will love you.

There are a bunch of small upgrades that will help it along but don't expect it to be a racer,however it will tow and tow and tow.

I want to leave it stock other than exhaust and the 6637 Riff Raff filter that I have already installed


That's called compressor surge. Typical. Make a wicked wheel to solve that issue. Just for reference you didn't make any changes to the fuel side of the system, only oil.

No changes to the fuels system

what is your fuel psi & boost psi
you say you now got full pressure did you check them ??

I still dont know. I'm assuming its getting all it can since it runs like it should
 
So how is your mileage now?
 
1800-2k rpms is where you want to keep her to stay in the sweet spot for fuel economy. Or at least it is on mine when running down the interstate.
 
I just checked the mileage by hand and I'm not doing good, 10mpg in town. What the hell is wrong with this truck? It runs awesome now, no up-pipe leaks, no boost leaks, no codes. I don't get it.
 
I just checked the mileage by hand and I'm not doing good, 10mpg in town. What the hell is wrong with this truck? It runs awesome now, no up-pipe leaks, no boost leaks, no codes. I don't get it.
Mine is the same way, it's normal...
 
Maybe they are overestimating their milage, or have lighter feet?
They drive them like they stole the damn things, their young. I drive like the old man that I am LOL! Im disappointed in this truck to say the least. My Hemi powered Jeep Commander had plenty of reserve power towing and got 11.5 in town, 11 towing and 18 on the highway empty. I think I should have kept it :-(
 
They drive them like they stole the damn things, their young. I drive like the old man that I am LOL! Im disappointed in this truck to say the least. My Hemi powered Jeep Commander had plenty of reserve power towing and got 11.5 in town, 11 towing and 18 on the highway empty. I think I should have kept it :-(
I'd say their overestimating. I've been driving a customers 7.3l for the past couple days for diag and there's no way it's getting a smidgen over 12mpg. It's worth taking into account tires, tire pressure and all the preventative maintenance items. Make sure no calipers or slides are sticking. All in all sounds like you have a typical 7.3l
 
What nobody told you until now is that 7.3s get terrible fuel economy, and that anyone who says otherwise is a liar that's trying to sell their 15 year old pickup truck for $15k.

The good news is now you can turn around and sell your truck on CL for $20k and buy a CTD or 6.0L with the proceeds.
 
What nobody told you until now is that 7.3s get terrible fuel economy, and that anyone who says otherwise is a liar that's trying to sell their 15 year old pickup truck for $15k.

But mine gets 18 MPG towing to Harlan with 2 rigs behind it. The overhead console says so...
 
But mine gets 18 MPG towing to Harlan with 2 rigs behind it. The overhead console says so...
Yeah, like the mpg on my Duramax (see my sig line).
 
how far off would you say the overhead deal is? Mine has shown As high as 17.5 with only around town driving so far? Have not hand calculated it yet. A buddy says his is about 2mpg off?
 
how far off would you say the overhead deal is? Mine has shown As high as 17.5 with only around town driving so far? Have not hand calculated it yet. A buddy says his is about 2mpg off?


Its not even relevant.
If you read the ford owner manual it will advise that the display is only accurate under a very specific set of circumsatnces. As I recall you have to be up to speed, engine warm, on a highway. The you reset the guage and drive exactly 1 mile at a constant speed (I swear the wife's old expedition said something like speed should not vary more than 1mph from 55 mph during the mile and "interstate/highway is recommended for this test") and at the end of 1 mile the display was accurate for that mile only and immediately started deviating from accuracy at that point.
 
how far off would you say the overhead deal is? Mine has shown As high as 17.5 with only around town driving so far? Have not hand calculated it yet. A buddy says his is about 2mpg off?
My display floats between 28-29.8, but hand calc'd tends to vary between 16-18, and averages right at 17 (I've done it every single tank since I bought the truck). I've had 235/85's all the way up to 285/75's, and it didn't really make much difference. Programmer anywhere from 0-5, also didn't make much difference. Straight pipe, stock exhaust w/muffler, MBRP 4" with muffler, then MBRP 4" with muffler and resonator, all work out about the same. I'll be putting the stock back on once I get my car off the lift. MPG Mostly highway is 18-19mpg, city/country is 16-17ish, and towing depends too much on the load, but somewhere between 10-16.
 
I just checked the mileage by hand and I'm not doing good, 10mpg in town. What the hell is wrong with this truck? It runs awesome now, no up-pipe leaks, no boost leaks, no codes. I don't get it.
sounds about right
my f350 gets around 13.5 on the high tune & driving it easy & i cound not get any better than 10 on the stock tune
 
I get 18-19 empty. I too have calculated every tank of fuel. The key to these trucks is not the power or economy, it's the fact that it will run for 500k+ if left alone and will run on veggie oil, trans fluid, motor oil, etc with no modifications. I may not beat you to the top of the mountain, but I'll make more trips without failure.
 
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I DD a early 99 7.3, auto, 4x4 ECLB with 3.73s and 265 LT tars. Bone stock keeping it under 65 on the highway, I got 18 regularly. But if I drive it over 70, it falls to around 15-16.
Now it has an AFE CAI and an Edge programmer on a "tow" tune and I get similar MPG. Towing my Ranger to Windrock, The Flats, etc, I get 10-11.
These are all hand calculated BTW.
 
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