A build of poor decisions

ObeseFieldMouse

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2006
Location
Winston Salem
It has been a really, really long time since I've done any sort of build thread, so there is a ton missing. Short story is his thing started out as a stock 89 Sidekick 11-12 years ago when I was in high school. I've slowly broken and built it to the point its at now, going through a whole plethora of what I'll refer to as beta tests lol.

The poor decisions started a year or so ago when I blew the second stock motor at the flats. Did some searching and swapped a 2.0 from a 2000 Chevy Tracker into it. 82hp to 135hp. If you've seen me drive, you'd understand why that was a poor decision. This particular engine I spun two rod bearings in one after another, so it was rebuilt. Found that Peugeot connecting rod studs from ARP will fit with a little bed plate modification. The first victim after this engine was practically shearing the knuckle ball off the housing of a well gusseting housing. So diamond it was... and a little test and tune at Windrock.
IMG_4451.JPG
IMG_4751.JPG
FullSizeRender.jpg


The only problem with this fresh, more powerful engine is the cooling system left a little left to be desired. After boiling the coolant out a few times and refilling it with donated urine at both uwharrie and the flats, I decided it was time for an upgrade. Driving the community piss bucket was tarnishing my rep... I decided I'd go for a massive cooling upgrade, mostly because since having done the swap, I noticed how lonely the exhaust manifold was, and how badly it needed something to fill the void.

Pretty much after a 30 minute phone call to my buddy, I accidentally ordered a whole lot of parts and starting work.
IMG_5206.JPG
IMG_5235.JPG

It is a universal radiator from Griffin originally made for a Dodge I believe. Drivers side inlet and outlet. Built a fan shroud out of some angle and 1/2" square tube. Adapted the massive outlets to the stock size with some exhaust pipe reducers. Stuck it in there. Not a whole lot of room left...
IMG_5236.JPG

The manifold was the main hang up on the turbo for a year or so. Everywhere I would find that made one would disappear off the internet. My friend finally came across one made by Spa on ebay with two left. That availability started this whole thing.
IMG_5231.JPG

The turbo is a T04E ebay special, with a line kit that came with the oil feed inlet restriction in it. Essentially a T3 turbine and T4 compressor hybrid. Spent a day or so routing the charge pipes etc, ordered a pancake style oil cooler adapter and cooler. Decided to run a blowoff valve right after the charger, and blow through my mass air flow. Seems to work okay.
IMG_5294.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5290.JPG
    IMG_5290.JPG
    106.9 KB · Views: 431
First test drives gave me a killer oil leak at the oil supply fittings. I used a 4way splitter so I could run my oil pressure gauge and supply the turbo. The plug in it leaked like a siv, so I found a tee and extension to make it easier to work on.

The other issue was on boost, when chopping the throttle, I would get a fairly decent blue cloud of oil smoke. Didn't even think about the PCV system. Disconnected it, ordered a moroso oil separator. Should be here today.

I'm hoping the finish the exhaust today and get the O2 and wideband installed so I can drive it without wondering if its gonna ka-splode. I'll just know its gonna ka-splode...

IMG_5290.JPG
 
Sub'd.

Ready for action videos!
 
Oil cooler is a sandwich adapter between the block and oil filter. I don't have any fml as of yet. The fuel pump in this thing has always forced it extremely rich. Before I buy fuel adders I'm going to run it with the af sensor and see how it handles it.
 
Got the downpipe in last night, and the factory o2 installed. Wideband installed, still have to mount the gauge. It will actually hit the rev limited with the o2 installed now. Tonight is pcv and mount gauges.

 
Got it out to do a few loaded pulls. Was definitely lean even off boost. I guess thats how they run from the factory. Anyhow, its lean enough to misfire under boost with high rpm so brought it home and disconnected the coolant temp sensor to make it think its some kinda ungodly cold out. That brought the a/f down to 12:1ish on boost until high rpm.

Plan of attack: grab a scanner than can read injector on time. Compare on times with temp sensor plugged in vs unplugged. Take that ratio and apply it to injector flow and stick some bigger injectors in it. Then see how it handles high rpm and boost.

Unless y'all have some better ideas...
 
Can't wait to see how this turns out. I just picked a 2.0 to replace the boosted 1.3 in my samurai and I also wanted to put the turbo on the 2.0. I'll let you figure out how to tune it that way I can have it easy this time. The 1.3 with a blow throw Weber gave me fits getting it turned.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    142.2 KB · Views: 409
Found out that wrx injectors fit nicely into the stock rail. Factory injectors are around 280cc. WRX ones are 440. Practically drips fuel out of the exhaust pipe lol. Got up Saturday and put the blower motor resister in the ground of the fuel pump. No help. Unholy richness, of course until the charger lights up...

So I ordered an adjustable fuel pressure reg from summit to back the pressure wayyyy down. If this doesn't make it acceptably driveable, it will be an AEM 4cyl standalone system pretty soon. I'm kinda torn on the clutch as well. Looking at the centerforce models. Anyone know if the dual friction is crawlable? Can it be rubbed or does it just grab? Clutch is fine until full throttle hard shifts in high. Then it slips.

 
I had a duel friction behind the 1.3 with a turbo and it's doesn't like to slip. More than once I tried to crawling over something and as boost came up the clutch grabbed and launched up and over. I'm going to an automatic behind the 1.3. Then after you get the tuning figured on your I'll swap to the 2.0 and put a turbo on it.:D
 
The 2.0 is a little crazy with a turbo, even running like hammered crap. The last video, it was breaking traction in high range. I feel like the regulator will get me wheelable. I'll prob eventually go standalone anyway, but I wanna go beat on it.
 
Didn't look back to be sure which trans you're running, but at the very least you need the clutch from a sidekick which is larger than the samurai. If you've already got that...and its in good shape...and its slipping then you're just about out of luck as far as a good clutch and crawling go. I've heard the Petroworks clutch is good, but sure is pricey from what I remember.

With that much power I'd definitely go for an auto just to make things easier on you and the rig. The only thing you'll miss is the "snappyness" of a turbo with a manual trans.

Just my .02 anyway.
 
It's a sidekick trans and geared tcase. Centrrforce makes a factory replacement with the centrifugal springs. Prob get one of those. Doesn't build lots of boost till high rpms so maybe they'll help
 
Got the adjustable fuel pressure regulator installed. Now it will idle without melting your eyes out of their sockets. It'll even drive down the road without coughing when hitting the throttle. Still a little rich down low and on cruise, and leans out hard at the extreme end of the rpm band. Drivable, even relatively beatable. Just not beatable by my beating specifications :D

Also decided I hate ebay imitation blow offs. They suck. Kill them with fire. Don't waste your $30 on one lol.

My newest fancy out of place racecar part....
IMG_5340.JPG


and another leaning out video, as if there arent enough of these already.



I just pulls so hard when its happy. There is a plan for getting it tuned. I'm waiting to hear back from the shop, which is doing some research for me. Hopefully they'll be able to get this bucket dialed in.
 
Is your fuel pressure regulator 1:1? thats what I'm running on my set up now. Mines rich down low but leans out above 5500 rpm so I set the rev limiter at 5300 and drive like I stole it:driver:
 
1:1 yea. I can jack the regulator up so it's super rich down low and runs like a raped ape up top. I don't wanna deal with dead af sensors plugs and cutting off though. Screw that
 
I think the 2.0 is limited at 6500 so I don't wanna cut down its rpm too much. I'll find it some fuel to drink somewhere [emoji16]
 
What if you used a boost referenced fuel regulator. Dial the pressure down for idle and it will add a pound of fuel pressure for every pound of boost?
 
What if you went with 1:2 or higher regulator so it will have more fuel pressure under boost. I know the wrx injectors should be able to put more than enough fuel. I guess it's just length of injection and having it at the right time so you don't get detonation.
 
I have an aero motive reg. It adds 1:1 on boost. I'd prob need 8:1. I just don't wanna pile regulators on top of regulators on top of regulators.
 
Back
Top