Aluminum Link material Group Buy

olliemanhd

Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2007
Location
Greenville
So Rock City Rob and I are trying to get a big order of 7075 T651 Aluminum together to try and get the price down a little. Let me know if you are interested. We will need the money up front, and I plan on allowing a couply of weeks to get the order together.

2" Solid 7075 T651 Aluminum
Comes in 12' pieces
Base price is $297
Rob estimates a 10% price cut after 5 pieces bringing the price down to about $260, but obviously the price will go down with the more we buy.

Thanks
Ryan
 
I might be interested. But will you be getting anything that could be used for uppers thats not so expensive?
 
What do you think for uppers. 1.75 tubing with a 1.25 shank in a flex joint?
I'm planning on using TG stuff.
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I just got my ballistic joints in. They have a 1.25" shank as well. If we get the right price, I'll prolly just go with 2" uppers and lowers. I'm pretty sure we can get what ever you want.
 
So my question was, if I ran 1.75" aluminum uppers, assuming we could get it and was worth it considering the cost difference, would it be ok to tap if for 1.25" shank joints? Or is that to thin?
 
This is not tube, its solid billet aluminum. I don't know if I'd go to a 1.25" thread in 1.75" aluminum. I think 1" would be the largest I'd go. there may be others out there that may know better than me.
 
I understand Its solid, that was my question, I just hate to have different size joints. That way I can carry one spare size.

Understood on the link size, that was the reason for my question. So if I do this, I need to plan on 2" all the way around.

I'm just afriad that I'll need like 13' for all 4 links and be screwed.
 
csudman said:
I understand Its solid, that was my question, I just hate to have different size joints. That way I can carry one spare size.

Understood on the link size, that was the reason for my question. So if I do this, I need to plan on 2" all the way around.

I'm just afriad that I'll need like 13' for all 4 links and be screwed.
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I think I'm only using it for 2 of my lower links as my front ones have to be bent to fit around my tires when I turn. So, looks like I'll only need enough for aluminum lowers on the rear. I may do more, but I don't know yet. With me only needing about 7', you can take some of the piece I was going to get to save some $$$ (so you don't have to get another stick).

I think 1.75" will be plenty strong for the uppers, but I don't think the material around the threads will be strong enough with the 1.25" shank. You could just go with standard tube up top versus the solid aluminum.
 
our shop in Spring Hope has one I'm sure. I'm planning on getting them to put it on the lathe and CNC mill to do the wrench flats.
 
csudman said:
I understand Its solid, that was my question, I just hate to have different size joints. That way I can carry one spare size.

Understood on the link size, that was the reason for my question. So if I do this, I need to plan on 2" all the way around.

I'm just afriad that I'll need like 13' for all 4 links and be screwed.
Click to expand...

Use the 2" aluminum on your lowers and some 1.75"x.120 DOM for your uppers with threaded inserts. That way you get the bend resistance of the AL but save some $$$ on the uppers.

As for the 1.75" AL it's not going to be cheaper enough than the 2" to make a difference.
 
gogogadgetbiker said:
Use the 2" aluminum on your lowers and some 1.75"x.120 DOM for your uppers with threaded inserts. That way you get the bend resistance of the AL but save some $$$ on the uppers.
As for the 1.75" AL it's not going to be cheaper enough than the 2" to make a difference.
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thats the idea except I'm using 1.5" x .25" wall tube for the uppers
 
Why do you need a left hand tap? How many times do you plan to adjust your links? You do realize that if the jam nuts get loose (and they will) your link can unthread with disastrous results?

I don't even make lowers adjustable if they are steel.
 
rockmafia said:
Why do you need a left hand tap? How many times do you plan to adjust your links? You do realize that if the jam nuts get loose (and they will) your link can unthread with disastrous results?
I don't even make lowers adjustable if they are steel.
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x2

I'd go with all right hand threads because loose jam nuts suck. It's even more dangerous with AL links. Also, you need fewer spares with all right hand threads.
 
I was going to use LH and RH threads because I already have the taps (I think I can find them). I wasn't going to purchase a special tap for it but would do it if I already had the tap. Otherwise, I'll just RH thread them
 
2" lowers with a flex joint having a 1.25" stub, doesn't leave much material around the threads. I got 2.25 lowers and 1.75" upper with a 1.25" stub on the lowers and a 1" on the uppers.
 
So your not counting on me, If I do links, I've decided to do square, this is a great deal. But not in my budget.
 
I'll be out of town until 11-13 and we won't be doing anything until after that, so you and/or anyone has some time before we order if anyone changes their minds.
 
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