Another Chinese ATV thread. SSR SRU170 youth SxS

Tonkurai

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2010
Location
MID STATE NC
I am in no way trying to spam or sell any particular thing or item. (I got banned for this post on RZR forum still don't know why!) If there is a problem let me know I will take it down and edit it.


Hi guys! I have had a hard time finding information for my sons SSR SRU170. I have had to engineer a lot of "upgrades" and repairs for the side by side. Before you poo poo this thing, it has been a fairly decent machine. SSR basically buys a machine and puts their name on it and stitches it in the seats. At least there is a network of dealers for SSR. Yes I have had issues with it. Yes it’s off brand but if you take the time to research you will find there is probably more support for these things for parts than the other dealers offer and is A LOT cheaper.


First off the drive train is NOT the same as the RZR youth. The engine is mounted straight in the machine (front to back) versus transverse (side to side). Reduces a lot of drag and less likelihood of issues. This is a GY6 Honda clone engine with Kawasaki style final drive parts.


The machine is larger than the RZR youth. I am 6'4 and 270 and I can shoe horn into it. It has a better roll cage system and an actual bed. Plus it has a spare tire and LED lights. (for the cool factor)


ISSUES SO FAR.

1. Muffler blew out baffles within 10 hours

2. Headlight reflector loose in housing (not really an issue)

3. Chain SUPER tight from factory

4. Sputter and die issue (FED's and CARB issue solved)

5. Where the heck is all that gas coming from!!! (fuel bowl drain)

6. If its bolted its gonna come loose (bad bolts, no Loctite)

7. Fuel cap won't seal

8. Dead battery after night ride.


Muffler

The muffler lost its baffles on the first ride. It sounded so bad we thought the bearing where bad in the transmission. They thing is also mounted so close to the frame you can’t even fit a flathead screwdriver between it and the frame. We simply put some spacers to move it out and dealer replaced the bad muffler under warranty. We are going to upgrade this soon anyway so no big deal.


Headlight

Self-explained. It’s still loose doesn't affect anything somewhat annoying at night.


Chain SUPER tight.

This may be the only thing that was tightened beyond spec. Right now we have a nice medium with some slack on the pull side and tight on the push side. (Upgraded)


Sputter and Die issue.

During break-in we noticed it would run fine until it got hot then it would DIE. It would turn over but not fire. After we towed it back 3 times we sprayed starting fluid around the carb and hoses and found there was a cracked hose. They use just enough hose to make connections for fuel and vacuum on this thing and they are stressed anyway so when it went thru a few heat cycles it split the vacuum line for the fuel pump. We replaced the lines (less than $5.00 and 2 hours labor). We took it to Windrock Park in Tenn. We noticed it ran fine until it got a load placed on it. Come to find out the fuel jet screw is covered by a brass plug and can't be adjusted. This thing was running WAYYY lean (thanks EPA) So after removing the plug and adjusting the fuel/air ratio to richen it up it runs WAY better and much cooler.


WHERE THE HECK IS ALL THAT GAS COMING FROM!!

On a ride down the road we noticed a little line of gas on the pavement. We pulled him over and all you smelled was gas. After it cooled down we looked around and found this weird looking hose with a metal screw housing on the end. Turns out this is the drain for the fuel bowl. The screw has backed itself out and was POURING fuel. We removed it and put pipe tape (yellow kind) and really tightened it. We also turned the hose upward to prevent this again.


This one is somewhat of an issue. Everything on this machine needs to be retightened or have creeping Loctite put on it. The roll cage and bumpers where the worst but just for good measure we did everything. The steering we took apart and coated it with blue Loctite so those don't come loose. The a-arms and other suspension parts we put green Loctite on so it creeps down the threads. Calipers and drive sprockets where done as well but upgrades where coming so we didn't over do it. Works well so far.


Fuel Cap won't seal.

This took some looking but I finally found a cap that would work. Its tight and has a rubber seal that keeps stuff from going in or out. (its not vented so you have to periodically take it off to prevent vapor lock or remove rubber gasket) Will update with NAPA part number


Dead battery after night ride.

We rode for about 2 hours on a local trail in the dark. My son ran his LED's the whole time. When we got back to load he left it idling so we could see to load. Once we had it on the trailer the machine wouldn't start. We thought oh well battery took a dump. We jumped it and idled it for a while (no lights). It started right up! The stator on this engine is not big enough to charge the battery, run the machine and all the lights at idle. It's fine while going but once you shut down its done.



UPGRADES


Skid plate

We knew where we ride the kiddo’s would be bashing across rocks and mud. After looking under the machine for way to mount something I came up with an idea. I took a large piece of cardboard and pressed it up against the chassis to get a fingerprint of what it looked like. We then called our local plastics supply house and got a sheet of 4x8x¼” UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight). This stuff is tought as nails and slick as hell. Tracing the cut out I had, I got pretty close and trimmed what I didn’t need. The tough part was keeping it on the chassis without it slipping off so I could mark the holes. This was tedious because I had to measure the distance to the center bars because they are angled and getting it right was curcial because once you drill its done. Another trick I used was taking a bright shop light and placing it in the chassis and using the shadows of the bars to mark them. I then drilled holes in the skid and the LARGE chassis rails along the side and center of the machine being careful not to go all the way thru. I then got HD jack nuts and hammered in the holes on the chassis. I used a router to make the holes on the skid longer sideways on some and up and down on others so I could adjust the mounting if needed or I measured incorrectly. When I was confident I had it I bolted it all up and marked where drain holes needed to be. I used a 1.5in hole saw and put them in the predetermined locations. This project took some time and effort so this may be above the skill level of some folks but it can be done if you take your time and don’t rush. The rear swing box was difficult because of the curved angles on the bearing carriers and low clearance of the brake and drive sprockets. I overcame this by measuring the overall length and width and cutting a bit long both ways. I then bolted the front of the plate up using the same technique as before but going all the way thru as to have more hold power because this is the piece that take the most abuse. I then used a propane torch to heat the material up enough to bend it. I eventually took it off and bent it in between two vise and 2x4’s. Heating the material slowly and applying pressure worked best because if you heat it to fast it melts and burns. This was tedious as you had to bend it then check it, bend more then check. Once it cools it will hold its shape. When I got to the brake and sprockets I used a router to cut oblong holes wide enough for them to pass thru. I still didn’t like the sprockets exposed so I cut another piece and used the factor plastic guard as a guide and shaped one to bolt up where the factory plate was and made it longer. This way if they hit something it will move and hit the sprocket and just slide off or the sprocket can rub on it without causing damage. I finally got everything shaped and bolted it up. It’s been the best upgrade yet.

Gear Reduction

This particular unit has a lot similar to Kawasaki in this department anyhow. The front sprocket is a JTF 569 and the rear is a JTR 1845 with 530 drive chain. Since I could not find EITHER one the same way I wanted it I opted to just use 520 chain instead. It’s more popular and has the same tensile strength. The gearing I choose was a 12 tooth front and a 37 tooth rear. This will give you a 3.08 to 1 ratio versus the 2.56 to 1 factory or about a 16% increase in torque. Maybe you can find a 569-11 tooth sprocket with 530 chain but I opted for more adjustability. I can put a 13 tooth on and have a 9% torque increase over factory or a 14 tooth for a bit more speed. The tires make me want to keep it a bit slower for the kids anyway because they are 2 ply and bouncy as heck.

Rear bearings

You have to take the bearings off to change the sprocket so might as well. There are also to extra seals in the carrier caps that you can choose to replace.

Bearing # NAPA 6206-2RSJ Double sealed bearing (rubber)

Cap seals 66630 x2 and 66639 x2

New belt

I chose Gates. There are other options to choose from as well but name and quality mean a lot

NAPA# PL30707

Variator rollers

This machine uses 18x14 Rollers that are 14g factory. Best to measure yours before you adjust them. Check youtube for all kinds of information on these. I am going to try a mix of 12g and 8g rollers to help kick the belt out and get the tires moving. I should have reduced the gearing enough to help with this. I will update post after our first ride.
(UPDATE)
Machine did very well at CAW in SC. Still have clutch slip issue on large hills. Overall the throttle is better and front pulley is working better. Have a "performance" clutch ordered.


FUTURE UPGRADES

Clutch spring (drive pulley on the way will update after install 6/2/18)

Depending on how the rollers do I may go with a 2000lb spring

New tires and wheels I like the factory wheels might just get tires.

New shocks (still searching)

This machine has double a arms so none of the shocks I have seen in others forums will work.



I hope some of this information has helped. Again I’m not here to bash the other youth SXS i'm just putting information out there so people can make a decision or get an idea on how to do something. Thanks and happy wheeling.

PS I will post pictures if there is an interest. Thanks!!
 
Clutch install went smoothly. After watching several vid's on YouTube University it turned out to be pretty easy. I went with NCY clutch kit and added a 2000 rpm main spring and 1500 rpm clutch springs. It had 2000 rpm clutch springs pre-installed but the engagement was to high for my son and he didn't like the "sound" it made because he thought the belt was slipping. I went with 8g and 10g mix of rollers to get a mix of low torque and keep a little top end. We are going to Uwharrie sometime and I will follow up again on how it does.
 
Post pics and share. We aren’t the nazi type like on the RZR forum.

I’d love to see more about this little rig and solutions to its shortcomings. It may prove useful to someone wanting a cheap toy for their kids with some solutions to common issues.
 
Post pics and share. We aren’t the nazi type like on the RZR forum.

I’d love to see more about this little rig and solutions to its shortcomings. It may prove useful to someone wanting a cheap toy for their kids with some solutions to common issues.

Yep, won't be long until I'm looking to step it up from power wheels for the little ones, and I can't see dropping the coin for a rzr170. Those mini jeeps look interesting though...
 
My nephew has one of these and he loves it. I dont know about the rzr ones but this one has a petcock on the passenger side much like a 4-wheeler. Kind of a nice feature and all but where they placed it was pretty poorly designed because he broke it side swiping a tree at the house so i just ended up deleting it. No problems since with that and as far as the other issues, his muffler started rattling not too long after he got it and the shifter cable broke recently. Other that that its been a pretty good machine for a 7 year old.
 
Yep, won't be long until I'm looking to step it up from power wheels for the little ones, and I can't see dropping the coin for a rzr170. Those mini jeeps look interesting though...

ive been on the edge of pulling the trigger for one. they are super cool.

but as mentioned in the original post here, go ahead and plan a full disassembly. Upgrade all the bolts to better grade and buy loctite by the bucket. Thats going to save you some head ache out on the trails.

remember too... the manufacturers suggested age on the jeeps (or any of their 125cc vehicles) is 16. so you wont be able to have the kids out on some of the trails that require age to match machine manuals recommendations.
 
SORRY GUYS!! I had all but forgot about this post. I had a flood of emails asking questions all of the sudden so I wanted to cover a few things first off PICTURES!!!








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Ok so the most asked question is "how is it off roading?" It's about as average to exciting as you make it. In its stock form it SUCKED. You really need to open the carb adjustment screw and get rid of that plug of a muffler. We simply cut a larger hole for the muffler exit and drilled a few 1/2 holes in the baffle.

I am working on a solution to the crappy air filter design right now. Donaldson G042545 might do the trick

The suspension is above average because of the adjustability range. We have one rider now (the older one moved up to a full size)so we are sitting back on factory preload. Has lots of recoil and absorbs bumps well. If you make it to hard the little thing bounces all over the trail and it beats the kid driving to death!!! Factory width is also an issue with hard suspension because it makes it more prone to roll over(which it did). Best way to avoid this is wheel spacers and suspension adjustment to the rider(s) I used 1.5 spacers on all 4 corners and this makes the machine basically a 52" machine. The 4x110 Honda Kawasaki spacers from AMAZON or EBAY with 10x1.25 studs worked flawlessly. Does it wear out the bearings faster?.....yeah but 6203 and 6204 bearings are cheaper than a rollover and bent cage or worse a bent kid!!

The clutch is NCY with a 2000 Lbs Primary "Red" and 1000 LBS "Blue" internal springs. You can see the factory clutch was getting eaten up in just a few rides. The pictures show red internal springs but I have changed them. The machine needed way to many RPM's to get moving and this caused a lot of grinding gears when trying to shift from N to forward or reverse. They really don't do anything to help keep it in its RPM range because the thing weights 600Lbs. The primary spring works well to "downshift" when slowing down, so stick with the 2000Lb. Variator weights are mixed to give some low RPM and some high RPM gains. Does it really help....ehh maybe, I couldn't tell a difference.

ALSO find a Kevlar belt. The Gates belt is made.....you guessed it..China Its wearing pretty good however.
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The most improvement can be found in the gearing. As I mentioned before JT sprockets JTF569-XX Front and JTR1845-XX Rear with RK XOring 520 Chain. I am running 569-12 and 1845-43 now. This setup works well and the thing will "change gears" better climbing a hill because of the ratio. I have lost about 5-7 MPH top speed but who need to go 35 MPH on a trail.


This is a factory (right side) v/s JTR845-37 Big difference! Just remember the larger the sprocket, the more hangs out the bottom to have to cover up.
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I have done a few other things like windshields front and back, aluminum roof and dome lights. I don't have pictures of those yet but I am doing some upgrades before we take it to Hatfield McCoy in WV this year. I will post more info and pictures when I get them. I have also linked my profile with my real email address so I should be able to see updates to the post now. Ask away or feel free to PM me about something you want to know.
 

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Have you had any issues with shifter cables breaking? The nephew has broken his a few times now and was either thinking about upgrading the cable or doing something different.
 
Have you had any issues with shifter cables breaking? The nephew has broken his a few times now and was either thinking about upgrading the cable or doing something different.

No not yet. But looking at them they could be replace with a pto control cable easily. Those things don't break as easy and are 2 times thicker. Just a suggestion. *** or a choke cable ****
 
New to forum and just purchased a 2019 SRU170. Love the machine and so do my kids...LOL

Can you show me what you did (pictures) to the carb and muffler? I would like to also open it up a little and was thinking that would be a good place to start. Really think another great mod would be to lift it 2-3" higher for more clearance.

Thanks.
 
This is the screw in question. Viewed from passenger side. You have to remove the plug that is hiding it.(I had to drill it but just enough to break thru not damage screw)
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Adjust at your own risk. I think that left (loosen) is to richen the mixture. I would adjust in small increments as not to make it so rich it smokes or fouls plug.
 
In the process of replacing the front sprocket with a JTRF-569-12 520 chain and notice the 520 sprocket is thinner and does not have the spacer like the original on backside. Also the original retaining clip is smaller and does not fit. What did you do in these scenarios?
 
Clutch install went smoothly. After watching several vid's on YouTube University it turned out to be pretty easy. I went with NCY clutch kit and added a 2000 rpm main spring and 1500 rpm clutch springs. It had 2000 rpm clutch springs pre-installed but the engagement was to high for my son and he didn't like the "sound" it made because he thought the belt was slipping. I went with 8g and 10g mix of rollers to get a mix of low torque and keep a little top end. We are going to Uwharrie sometime and I will follow up again on how it does.

Do you happen to know the kit # from NCY?
 
Again no notifications from website that I have had any new posts sorry guys. In regards to the chains You have to replace both sprockets or the chain won't work. I had to file the ends of the retainer down to fit and had to use round allen head bolts. Remember to use blue thread lock on everything.

Clutch kit number......I can't find the purchase history. Sorry. Wanna say it's a 200cc kit.
 
Just want to give a heads up to OP and anyone considering a Chinese ATV/Rtv.
When my kids were younger I bought 2 125cc Tao Tao's for them. They put about 3-4 hrs on them and lost interest. They sat in a garage for 6 months and carb on 1 of them ended up needing replaced as it had no way to fully clean bowl and such because carb was basically non serviceable. I was pleased to find a new carb online for about $20. Got it running again and kids decided to sell.
We were making a video of my son riding it for the for sale ad.
He was going across some flat ground about 15-20mph and the front of atv suddenly dug into the ground and did a tumbling forward flip landing on my son. He jumped up pretty quickly thank God and was just bruised. The low quality cotter pin on right front axle had broken and Bam! The front end just dug in the ground and flipped.

Make sure to replace any and all nuts, bolts, screws and COTTER PINS !!!!!!!
 
Hey ! Great informative post . I just came across the thread . I bought one new for my kids also . I’ve had a hard time finding a windshield . Any luck or sources for one of those ?
 
I have a 2021 ssr sru170. The battery went dead, jumped it, then had to replace battery fuse. Ran fine for days then battery died and I tried to jump it, it would turn over but never started. Gave up then the next day tried again and now it won’t even turn over at all even after leaving the slow charger on battery for 24 hours. Any ideas?
 
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