Another Tire Vulcanizing/Repair Thread

Kickdeez

Kickdeez

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2010
Location
Charlotte
I have two 42" sticky treps that I would like to get "professionally" repaired if possible, instead of buying new(er) tires, or wasting my time trying to diy a half-ass repair that may or may not work. One of them has 2 small holes/cuts in the sidewall (about 3" from the bead) and 2 pin holes in the bead of the tire. The other tire has a gash/tear in the bead with a flap of rubber hanging on. I took them to Aiken-Black in Hickory this morning. They have fixed tires for me over the years. This time they told me they couldn't repair these 2. They can't do anything about the bead damage, and the 2 holes in the sidewall are too close to the bead for their repair to work.

Reaching back into my foggy-at-best memory bank, I seem to remember having a tire that somebody else had previously vulcanized/repaired at the bead. That makes me think it can be done. But my memory has been known to fail me before, so maybe it can't be done.

Anyone had a tire bead repaired before? Anybody have a recommendation for a shop that will try to repair a tire that nobody else will? I don't need a guarantee that it will be leak free...just looking for someone who knows what tf they're doing to at least give it a try.
 
I’m in the same sticky trep boat…. I’m going with the diy cold vulcanize kit. But mine is obviously in a better place than yours. Hoping to try it tonight and let it sit for a few days to cure. Every place around me I called refuses to even look at it
 

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Noel said:
I’m in the same sticky trep boat…. I’m going with the diy cold vulcanize kit. But mine is obviously in a better place than yours. Hoping to try it tonight and let it sit for a few days to cure. Every place around me I called refuses to even look at it
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Aiken-Black has fixed holes like that for me before (in other tires), and told me this morning that they could fix holes in that part of the tire.
 
Stopped in at a commercial truck tire repair shop this morning. They said they'll give it a shot. Not sure about repairing the bead damage until its off the wheel, but they're gonna do what they can. That's all I needed to hear. Now I just gotta get these fawkers off the wheels. There will be swearing.
 
I seem to remember Galloway's in Richfield doing this at some point? Might be worth a call.
 
I'm on the hunt for a shop down here in SC that will do it.
 
I patched a thumb size side wall hole in my wrangler A/T with an ABC cold Vulcanizing kit.

Worked well, I have wheeled it and ran on front, also repaired bead damage with it.

This is the kit. Also brought a grinder and made a roller. Mine is not a sticky though.


tiresupplynetwork.com

Rema | 50F A+B Vulcanizing Compound Kit - 650g & 225g (RE50F)

Rema 50F A+B Vulcanizing Compound Kit 650g & 225g. RE50F. For bead repair of truck/OTR tires or sidewall repair of OTR tires only. In Stock. FREE SHIPPING on orders over $50! Call or Click Today! 1-855-550-2626.
tiresupplynetwork.com tiresupplynetwork.com
 
Jeff B said:
I patched a thumb size side wall hole in my wrangler A/T with an ABC cold Vulcanizing kit.

Worked well, I have wheeled it and ran on front, also repaired bead damage with it.

This is the kit. Also brought a grinder and made a roller. Mine is not a sticky though.


tiresupplynetwork.com

Rema | 50F A+B Vulcanizing Compound Kit - 650g & 225g (RE50F)

Rema 50F A+B Vulcanizing Compound Kit 650g & 225g. RE50F. For bead repair of truck/OTR tires or sidewall repair of OTR tires only. In Stock. FREE SHIPPING on orders over $50! Call or Click Today! 1-855-550-2626.
tiresupplynetwork.com tiresupplynetwork.com
Click to expand...
Same kit is 103$ through busted knuckle off-road. Just used it myself.
 
Can't comment on the diy compounds...but I could update this thread with the results of my repair.

Had a local commercial tire repair shop down the street from my house vulcanize 2 sidewall punctures on 1 tire. That tire also had a couple pinhole leaks around the bead that were not repairable. When I reinstalled the tire on the wheel, I put a heavy bead of 3M Window Weld around the entire bead, then installed the beadlock clamping ring. Let it set up for a few hours, then aired it up. Ran it at 5 psi for a short weekend at Harlan and it didn't burp or leak down. I aired all tires up to 15 psi now that it will be sitting in the shop for the next few weeks. Will report back on the results. But for the $80 I spent on tire repair and sealant, so far I'm happy with it.

The spare tire has a pretty large gash/tear in the bead that also was not repairable at the shop. So I ran a heavier bead of Window Weld over that bead and clamped it down with the beadlock ring. This tire is mounted on a wheel that is proper fukt, and mediocre-ly welded back together along the inner bead. I slopped a bunch of Window Weld along the inner bead as well, aired up it up to seat the bead, then pulled the core to let the air out and let the sealant set up. Aired it back up a few hours later, and it seemed to be holding pretty well. I think it may have lost a little air over the course of a few days, but before the repair it wouldn't hold air for more than an hour or two. Given that its a spare, and all I have into it is some sealant, I'm happy.
 
I've been looking for a vulcanizer down my way. Only one I have found so far is in the upstate. I know there has to be some one in the Columbia area that does it but i have yet to find them.
 
ghost said:
I've been looking for a vulcanizer down my way. Only one I have found so far is in the upstate. I know there has to be some one in the Columbia area that does it but i have yet to find them.
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The place I took mine to is called E&R Commercial Tire in Charlotte. I would have never found them using google-fu. They are just a small shop in an industrial part of town that I have driven past a hundred times and never thought twice about before. Look for a shop that does big rig tires and farm equipment tires. Chances are that they'll hem and haw about repairing it, but if you tell them you don't need a guarantee, just someone to take a stab at it, they'll probably do it for you. I figured that anything they did would be better than I could do myself. And the price was right.
 
Kickdeez said:
The place I took mine to is called E&R Commercial Tire in Charlotte. I would have never found them using google-fu. They are just a small shop in an industrial part of town that I have driven past a hundred times and never thought twice about before. Look for a shop that does big rig tires and farm equipment tires. Chances are that they'll hem and haw about repairing it, but if you tell them you don't need a guarantee, just someone to take a stab at it, they'll probably do it for you. I figured that anything they did would be better than I could do myself. And the price was right.
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Yes I actually got a patch done by a shop in Bishopville that said they would try. I even asked for vulcanized. It was only $20 or $30 but it was an internal sidewall patch. I'm going to give ti a try. He said he's done a lot of tractor tires like that and never had one fail. I'd like to find a place so when it does fail I can break it down again and get it fixed like I want.
 
R Q said:
So how are these self vulcanizing kits working? I may get one and try it.
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I have a thumb size repaired side wall on a load range C 35" wrangler AT that's been going for 4 years now. rotated to front and back and wheeled fairly hard. doesn't leak at all. Did a bead repair too..
 
I got my kit yesterday and did the repair today. It didnt go as good as the instructional video but it seems to be hardening up well.
Outside
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Inside
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The goop


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The finished product
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Noel said:
Oh, I mixed mine by hand…. I was a real idiot. And scared for a good 5 mins til it started mixing well. My wife had quite the enjoyment watching me freak out
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The new directions say to use gloves to mix so I did and it was a cluster fu$k! That sh!t ate the gloves I had on so I got the dollar store cutting board and mixed it up. It would have worked out with just my hands. I shoulda practiced first...
 
R Q said:
The new directions say to use gloves to mix so I did and it was a cluster fu$k! That sh!t ate the gloves I had on so I got the dollar store cutting board and mixed it up. It would have worked out with just my hands. I shoulda practiced first...
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I figured the gloves would get stuck and tear… seems I was correct lol
 
I aired up my repaired Bogger yesterday and it held air until this morning.
I suspect the inner bead and will test when I get home today. I plan to use a sealant after I break it down so I can apply it correctly. I'm debating on what to use. The big truck tire bead sealant that I have is not good. I want something like construction adhesive or industrial sealer that I can get locally and quick or at least from Amazon in a day. I heard on this thread to use "window weld" being used for this. I'm not worried about ruining the tire. If the inner works and it turns out that it's leaking at the beadlock, I'll glue that too.
Any recommendations on what product to use?
 
R Q said:
I aired up my repaired Bogger yesterday and it held air until this morning.
I suspect the inner bead and will test when I get home today. I plan to use a sealant after I break it down so I can apply it correctly. I'm debating on what to use. The big truck tire bead sealant that I have is not good. I want something like construction adhesive or industrial sealer that I can get locally and quick or at least from Amazon in a day. I heard on this thread to use "window weld" being used for this. I'm not worried about ruining the tire. If the inner works and it turns out that it's leaking at the beadlock, I'll glue that too.
Any recommendations on what product to use?
Click to expand...
The 3m windshield gasket was the goto for years. You would basically consider the tire and maybe wheel junk after using it, because it would not come off. You can find it at any parts store.
 
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