Another water line question...

[kaiser715]

I've now talked with 3 different guys about the waterline to our new place. (Still trying to figure out how to trench it in without totally boogering up the road that's already in place (there when we bought).)

Total length is about 1800'. Water pressure at the main tested by the city at 100psi.

1st (lic. plumber), wants to use 2" pvc, 20' joints, glued. (Any less diameter, and you end up with a trickle due to pressure losses)

2nd (non plumber, does trenching, water service lines, septic lines) says 3/4 PE is fine, has 1300' to his own house nearby.

3rd (and plumber doing the house) would use 1.5" pvc, glued 20' sticks. Says larger the better, but $ difference between 1.5 and 2" for that many sections is not worth it.

So, first off....nobody wants to use a big (1.5-2") PE, because it's so hard to handle and would have more sections than 3/4 or 1". Plumbers don't like the PE because of the clamp joints. Can't (easily) get and handle more than 300' lines, so would have about 6 joints (12 clamped connections).

Opinions??

 

[lockedup5]

Wow! 1800 feet!! I'm curious as to what the cost is for a job like that.
I have no other input on the size of pipe except it's better to be to big than to small. Might would be better to contact the building inspection office and see what they recommend.

On another note what would the cost comparison be between laying 1800 feet of pipe with a monthly water bill and just having a well drilled say 50 feet from the house with no water bill.

 

[R Q]

I have worked in the landscape sprinkler industry for over 30 years. We have to size our pipe according to initial pressure, gallons per minute (GPM), and length of run. I have always used primarily PVC. There is three unkowns here, one is pressure at the meter, size of the meter, and elevation change from meter to inlet at the house.
Forcing water through a pipe creates a turbulence called Friction Loss. The velocity does two things, it lowers pressure but also can disintegrate the pipe from within over time so there is a range to try to stay within.
An elevation rise can also steal pressure but if it's going downhill, it will help.
I looked at 1.5" and 2" PVC and the pressure loss is minimal at what I would figure to be no more than 15 GPM and that is being generous with most domestic water supplies unless you can see a water tower from your house.
The 3/4'' vinyl pipe at 10 GPM can lose as much as 11.70 PSI in 100' at 10 GPM so I would rule that out.
The 1.5" PVC at 20 GPM can lose .80 PSI in a 100' run while the 2" can lose .32 PSI. I used 20 GPM as a constant because it is the lowest GPM on the 2" pipe table.
I would use the 1.5" PVC unless you have GPM of over 25 (which I doubt) or a pressure of more than 75 PSI.
This will fall on dead ears when passing along to a contractor but use PVC pipe cleaner at each joint on the pipe and inside of fittings or in the bells of the pipe. Use regular or heavy duty PVC glue , NOT the blue kind made for wet applications. The problem with that is the guy will put the glue on and let the blue glue set up too much before pressing pipe and fitting together and you will have a leak. It is made to set up very quickly and when it flashes over, it is not as effective as it could be. Also, snake the pipe within the trench to allow for contraction or expansion, especially in the warmer months but do it regardless because a straight run will eventually contract and cause a leak at a joint. When backfilling, be sure that no sharp rocks land directly on the pipe wall because with that expansion and contraction it can develop a leak (this is with any pipe).
And if you may ever need power or another water or conduit from the road, run it with this trench now! Phone and cable and who knows what other kind of cable down the road may arise but be sure that it is 3/4'' or 1'' conduit sch 80 PVC and even then sometimes the companies won't use it because it's an unknown. Run a pull string through it also because you won't be able to push 1800' feet of anything. A call to them before installation may help to put a light on this.

 

[Loganwayne]

i agree with @lockedup5 id run a cost comparison for a well vs. city water, unless you really want city water i think a well would be best bet more upfront cost but thats it for a long time. i dont like running water lines in road beds period, i know you get it deep enough for code it shouldnt effect it but still dont like the idea of driving over waterlines.

 

[R Q]

To add to my post, you can call the water dept and ask what pressure and GPM you can expect at the meter as a starting point for calculations. Also do you know what size meter you have? Each size has it's GPM flow capabilities.

 

[CasterTroy]

. Also do you know what size meter you have? Each size has it's GPM flow capabilities.

And know the cost of that meter carries over every month too. So if a jump to a 1" meter is $500, also ask what the additional MONTHLY cost is that goes along with that upsized meter. It may BE that in 20 years that well has paid for itself 3-5 times over