Axle Swap and Gear Set-Up

BigBody79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Location
Lumberton
I'm looking to swap my 3.08 gears to 3.73 in my 2011 Sierra. I'd like it to tow a bit better and have a little better low end.
I busted my front axle in an unfortunate floor jack incident and picked up a 3.73 front from a suburban. I still have the 3.07s in the front and used the 'burb axle to fix my broken parts. So i'm still geared the same front and back for those that were worried.

I have found locally an axle with a busted g80 that has 3.73s and all of the same RPO codes as my truck. So it would swap in fairly easily from that stand point.

But, I would need to fix the carrier. The idea here is to go with the Yukon duragrip and a rebuild kit. Since I would be rebuilding this axle on the bench I feel like i could take my time and get it done myself.

I do have a few questions hence the post.

1. As far as pinion depth. I should be able to reuse the spacers on the current pinion to set my depth correctly from the start because that is housing specific. Is this correct?
2. Since I am putting in a new carrier the main bearing shims would be a start but it would need to be set for new carrier. Is this correct?
3. When setting up used gears the coast side of the pattern is more important?
4. Has any one successfully used the heat up the bearings process to install the new bearings?

I know we have a few axle experts on here. I also know even the most hard core DIYers seen to shy way from axles.
 
I had it on ramps in the back and stands in the front. I had the jack on the front cross member I was lowering it down slowly and the jack slipped towards the back of the truck and cracked the axle tube. very dramatic and shitty.

Now I only do ramps on the front and stands on the back.

This was after a long day of taking out and putting back in the transmission.
 
I'm looking to swap my 3.08 gears to 3.73 in my 2011 Sierra. I'd like it to tow a bit better and have a little better low end.
I busted my front axle in an unfortunate floor jack incident and picked up a 3.73 front from a suburban. I still have the 3.07s in the front and used the 'burb axle to fix my broken parts. So i'm still geared the same front and back for those that were worried.

I have found locally an axle with a busted g80 that has 3.73s and all of the same RPO codes as my truck. So it would swap in fairly easily from that stand point.

But, I would need to fix the carrier. The idea here is to go with the Yukon duragrip and a rebuild kit. Since I would be rebuilding this axle on the bench I feel like i could take my time and get it done myself.

I do have a few questions hence the post.

1. As far as pinion depth. I should be able to reuse the spacers on the current pinion to set my depth correctly from the start because that is housing specific. Is this correct?
2. Since I am putting in a new carrier the main bearing shims would be a start but it would need to be set for new carrier. Is this correct?
3. When setting up used gears the coast side of the pattern is more important?
4. Has any one successfully used the heat up the bearings process to install the new bearings?

I know we have a few axle experts on here. I also know even the most hard core DIYers seen to shy way from axles.

My 2cts, keep in mind I'm not a pro but I've done my faire share of installs.

1) The logic is there, but I have never done it that way and confirmed it
2) Assuming your pinion depth is good from the get go (see point 1) you are correct by saying that you'd have to shim backlash and carrier preload for the new carrier specifically
3) That's what the book says. TBH used gears are always a crapshoot IMO so use your best judgement. If the gears don't make noise I'd say you're prety good.
4) Yes, I do it all the time. but make sure you have a set of set up bearings because you won't be able to get them on and off multiple times like that.
 
1A299E32-3D5E-4185-98B6-11EA1DBE32B1.jpeg

got my axle with busted carrier today.
already have a Eaton truetrac to swap in.
first step will be cleaning and ordering install kit.
 
I had a fella that i use to do some of my work separate the pinion bearing and pulled the wheel bearings for me. A little pricey. But he mangled my pinion shim. I hope I can get the right size to prevent any problems.

I've got to put in a call to ECGS to get some parts.
 
I had a fella that i use to do some of my work separate the pinion bearing and pulled the wheel bearings for me. A little pricey. But he mangled my pinion shim. I hope I can get the right size to prevent any problems.

I've got to put in a call to ECGS to get some parts.

The MIK (assuming Yukon) will come with a book that has what OEM pinion shim was. It's not always right but will get you in the ballpark.
 
ECGS got my parts to me the next day with fedex. Got the axle apart and painted. My pinion shim has 38 written on it. Does that mean .038? It’s pretty mangled I get measures from .035 to .040
E07B8FA8-DC2D-4D2E-B239-F5D65BA6F37B.jpegC320FBA1-DB46-4746-A0F5-68BF0CFD6A31.jpeg1B700253-85F0-4471-8A16-0AB6AA604234.jpeg12D25FD7-B84F-4692-A8CF-EB2370A0BCB5.jpeg
 

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Pinion bearing preload right at 19-20. (This is after its spinning a little higher to get it going)

backlash with super cheap indicator is .006

pattern as shown.
 

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Can't judge a used gear by the drive side. Too much wear on the drive side teeth. Coast side looks great though.
I'd run it as is without concern.
If you could open up backlash a couple thousandths, it wouldn't hurt.
But being a used gear, it gives you a bit of a break
Nice work, man
 
How tight should it feel?

I had to tap in the carrier shims to make them fit it takes quite a bit of effort to make the carrier spin.
 
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