Axle Swap

jdarrow

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2005
Location
Stafford, Va
I got a 1978 Jeep CJ7, AMC 360, T18 tranny, Dana 300 transfer case with a fiberglass body running 35's. I am currtly running a Dana 30 passenger side drop in the front and a awesome AMC 20 rear:lol:. I am thinking about doing a axle swap to Dana 44s front and rear, but I am a little nervous about the swap. When I am preping the axles for installtion I am planing on putting ARB front and rear air lockers, and up gradeing the axle shafts. I am not sure what I need to look for, or if the Dana 44s are the way to go. PLEASE HELP!!
 
you are going to get a BUNCH of opinions, and mine is no different. but what do you want to do with your rig? that is the main question. how far you want to take it is up to you.
 
44's are a good choice with 35's.. are you planning on going bigger?
 
not sure on the lug pattern of all 44,s but u can get a 9" rear with 5x5.5 and get a matching full width 44 front. the 9" rear has the removable third member if that is something you would want in your rig.
 
The jeep wagoneer dana 44's are a good way to go. They are real easy to find in the junkyards and parts are plentiful. You could get a front d44 from a late 70's model wagoneer, some of them had flat top knuckles. Then get a centered waggy rear from a late 80's grand wagoneer. If you are heavy on the gas pedal you might want to upgrade to a 9" rear or a d60 rear.

:beer:
 
If ya swap rear axles, you won't be doing any better by going with a D44 rear versus the AMC 20. Might as well go with a D60 rear. You can get them in just about any lug pattern to match the front D44 you find.

A D44 is stronger than an AMC 20, but only ever so slightly. The time and $$$ would be better spent on a D60 rear, regardless of you end use for the Jeep.

And with the 360 and T18 and 35s, you'll def. need more than a D44 in the rear...
 
I'd go with a 9" rear and D44 front if you don't plan on any bigger than 35's. I agree that the D44 would only be a marginal upgrade over the AMC20. The AMC 20 with one piece axles is a fairly tough unit. I had one with a locker and one piece axles in my CJ with a SBC 350 and an auto and I never had a problem. The D30, well that's another story - it got ditched for a D44.
 
Are you wanting full size axles or trying to keep something close to what you have? The grand waggy will be a couple of inches wider than what you have. The Cherokee has full width same as the J10. I put Waggy 44's under my YJ this past March with 4.88's and ARB's and love the set up. The install was really straight forward with no real surprises. Rear, relocate the spring pads, front, move one spring pad 1/2" and do a little grinding and drilling on the other. Caster was my only issue that caught me by suprise being my first time. Brake lines work as well as the stock Ebrake. Went to six lug wheels and even got lockouts. Need any info let me know.

Steve
 
why didnt you go spring over since you had the axles out and everything? Just curious..I love how you did your front axle, looks very professional
 
As of right now I am planning stay with 35s, and if I do go bigger I am not going bigger than 37s. My dana 30 has the superior axle shaft upgrades, and the AMC 20 has the moser one piece axle shafts, but both axles are open. From what yall are telling me it would make no since to go to the 44 rear. So I should go a 9in or 60? Would it be a big change to go with a 9in? I am also planning to upgrade my Dana 300 to a twin stick, will that effect what type of axles I should go with. I am trying to stay close to the same width on the axles, I willing to go a few inches bigger, but no inches smaller. Speaking of spring over, how is the handling after that mod.
 
I thought the AMC 20 was decent once you swap for 1 piece axle shafts?

Basically - why are you thinking that you need to do an axle swap?
 
yest the 20 is decent with 1 piece shafts, but with a 360 and T18 (low gears) and 35s, thats pushing the limits of the AMC 20, even with the Moser shafts.

if ya do anything, go either 9" or D60, both ar good, but the D60 comes in full floater versions (8 lug)...

thats a whole nother response in itself

do you really need the full floater?? stay with the semi float???

if ya go 60, might as well go full floater with a disc brake conversion. Full floater D60s are cheap and can be converted to disc very cheaply, so why not???

unless you don't need it
 
I want to do the swap, so I have stronger axles. I hear a lot of bad stuff about the dana 30, and amc 20, so I wanted to see what yall thought about it, and I am looking for my winter mod. I have put my axles to the test and they passed. The jeep used to be a everyday driver, but it is turning into a trail rig only jeep.
 
60/14 combo is a combo once done right you wont need to change again, Im not sure of the machine work it takes to fit a 14 bolt in a jeep, but chances are relocate shock mounts and maybe coil buckets/ spring perches need to be re welded on there, the good part about that is you can set your pinion angle when you reweld the brackets on.
 
If you're planning on sticking with 35's, the 60/14 would be overkill for you. While you wouldn't have to worry about breakage, you'd probably be plowing trenches with that 14 bolt. You could always shave it... And if you eventually wanted to go bigger you'd be set...

Just be honest with yourself. Are you going to be happy with 35's and stick with them, or will you eventually want to go to 37"+ tires? If the answer is stick with 35's, you'd be better off with a 44/9" combo. It'd be enough beef and you'd have more clearance. But if you eventually go to 37"+ tires, then you're gonna be right back to where you are now and be pushing the limits with your axles. Do it right the first time and you'll save money down the road. Personally, I'm saving for a 60/14 combo because I eventually want to run 38's.
 
The install of the 14 bolt isn't the tough part. The hard part is the front Dana 60 install. You'll need to "out-board" the springs to the outside of the frame with a kit(Check out poison spyder Customs). AND, You'll need to work on a new steering set up.

The rear 14 bolt is a bolt on for the most part other than setting the pinion angle.

If you do this, do the disc brake conversion (cheap as rock city noted). You can get 8 lug STEEL wheels from 4WDparts for about $50 each.

As noted, be sure to do your homework. There have been many that have upgraded, and found themselves upgrading again due to poor planning (I've done it!).

Good luck!:beer:

Rick
 
Damn guys, he's talking 35's... 14 bolt? 60?? Hell, let's just weld him a plow on the front bumper.
 
Off road=on jack stands

Remember the upgrading is part of the fun too so who cares if you do it over. With the $$$ people are paying for used Jeep parts, who cares. I have been accused of enjoying the wrenching more than the wheeling. Off road=On jack stands.
 
Yeah, he's talking 35's right now... But, he mentioned possibly 37's later. We all know how it is, it starts with just some mud tires, then some lift, then we just go crazy. It's best to just do it right the first time.
 
I wouldn't change a thing if you are only on 35s or maybe 37s. To my knowledge, the Model 20 has two weaknesses. One is the two piece axles you have already replaced, and the other less prominent problem is the tubes spinning in the diff housing which some people will weld up to prevent from happening. I've got a buddy with the same setup, superior axles front and rear on a D30/AMC20 combo, both locked, on 35's and wheeling it for several years with no problems out of the rear. Buy a winch or put the money in a BTF fund for later in case it hits.

DK
 
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