Axle Swap

why didnt you go spring over since you had the axles out and everything? Just curious..I love how you did your front axle, looks very professional
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I guess because I would have wanted to go to 37's and it would not have been beefy enough :flipoff2: Actually at the time I figured with the 4" springs it would have too much lift if there is such a thing. I am getting ready to tear it down and do a V8/Auto swap and yes a spring over with 2 1/2" springs.
I guess the moral to this story is go ahead and do it right the first time. If you even mention something (37's) you had better prepare for it, cause it won't be long til you gotta have :driver:

Steve
 
My old CJ had a Chevy 350 with D30/M20 (one piece shafts) combo, both locked and a twin-sticked D300. I never had a problem with the M20, but the d30 was a different story. Broken u-joints, broken shafts, you name it. When I tore it apart to sell the locker in it after I pulled it, I realised 3 or 4 teeth were missing off the ring gear and a couple of teeth on the pinion were also chipped. Basically, everything on that axle simply wasn't up to the task at hand. If he sticks with 35's, he can probably get away with keeping the M20, but the D30 has got to go.
 
linvillegorge said:
If he sticks with 35's, he can probably get away with keeping the M20, but the D30 has got to go.
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I did the opposite. When I picked up my Commando someone had swapped in an AMC 20. I broke it quickly with 35's and put in a 44 (stock commando axle). I am still (3 years later) running the dana 30. I have had zero breakage so far. It is unlocked and I am easy on the skinny pedal, but it works. Do I want to upgrade, yes. Do I HAVE to upgrade, no.
 
89wrangler said:
Are you wanting full size axles or trying to keep something close to what you have? The grand waggy will be a couple of inches wider than what you have.
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Depends on your perception of "a couple of inches"! His narrowtrac CJ axles are around 51" WMS-WMS and the widetrac CJ axles are around 54"... IIRC, the Waggy/Chero/J-trucks are all between 58"-62" (only "a couple of inches" from fullwidth :D )....

While 9" really isn't that much, it will leave the tires sticking well out from under the tub... even with highly backspaced rims...
 
drkelly said:
I wouldn't change a thing if you are only on 35s or maybe 37s. To my knowledge, the Model 20 has two weaknesses. One is the two piece axles you have already replaced, and the other less prominent problem is the tubes spinning in the diff housing which some people will weld up to prevent from happening. I've got a buddy with the same setup, superior axles front and rear on a D30/AMC20 combo, both locked, on 35's and wheeling it for several years with no problems out of the rear. Buy a winch or put the money in a BTF fund for later in case it hits.

DK
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Hey, I resemble that remark :beer:

The other issue with the the AMC M20 is the thin-walled tubes have a tendency to bend...especially when you go to widetracks. I'm pushing my luck, but I should probably truss the rear.
I would ditch the narrow tracks and find something cheap to start with; widetracks, D44, 9". Widetracks are bolt in but require some $$ for upgraded shafts, the others require a little spring perch welding and maybe some junkyard engineering for brakes, steering, etc.
 
Thanks guys!! :beer:

I am going to go with 44/9 combo. I am going to look around and find a 44/9 combo and upgrade them, and when ever my 30/20 break I will throw in the big dawgs 44/9. :driver:
 
I've gotta dig up a picture of This one guy's FJ-40 - Rocks, hubs out, 35" Boggers... The inner sidewall was past the outside of the stock fenders...

Was funny looking, but he didn't have the $ for 44's at the time..
 
Isn't a shaved rockwell close to the same clearance as a 44?

For 35-37s stick with the 44/9 combo. Clearance on my 14b is horrible with 38.5s.
 
yep, about the same as a 44. so other than the overkill factor, 35's on one isn't that crazy of an idea for trail use. you'd also be severely interstate speed challenged...
 
Of course neither unsprung weight, tracking, nor turn raduis ever becomes a factor.

That's why I love this crowd.

If some is good
More is better
and
Too Much is juuussst about riiight


That's why I run Cat 988 axles and planetaries on my 32-11.50's and 4 cyl.
I never break nuttin'

:rolleyes:
 
wbcarver said:
If some is good
More is better
and
Too Much is juuussst about riiight
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Sounds like my thought process *just* before something goes ka-pow!

aka:
1st attempt
2nd attempt
3rd attempt.

As much as I hate to say it... Rock's aren't that much heavier than a 60/14 bolt, and with 4 wheel steering, your turning radius will be just fine. ;) There's just something about not breaking no matter what that is very appealing.
 
yup

and when did unsprung weight become a problem? why is tracking a problem with rockwells?
 
pheery said:
and when did unsprung weight become a problem?
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Welllll... gravity rides everything.. ex: if you have to climb a slick rock face, and you have enough traction to pull 3000lbs up that rock, sprung or unsprung doesn't matter...

But, your rig is light enough that even with the rocks, it's still really light... and your CoG is incredibly low. :D
 
I am going to use the 44/9 combo. I would have to change everything if I went with rockwells. Next project will have rockwells. Thanks for all the inputs. This :beer: is for you!!
 
I want ALL the weight on the axles. Put the weight as far outward and as low as possible to get better CG. The concern for unsprung weight is for racing folks. Of course heavy wheels are another thing, that saps power.
 
i would think twice about the 9... you are talking a really low pinion... which means you will be draggin the driveshaft over everything... i would try to find yourself a rear 44.... or 60... i would lean towards the 60... dime a dozen... and full floating.. but so are 14 bolts.. and you can shave 1" off of one with a grinder and some time.. i picked up my 14 bolt from a cab and chassis.. aka bread truck.. for $200... with 4.56 gears.. welded the carrier.. and have about $150 in a disk brake setup... with all new hardware.. i even got a spare set of axle shafts for $20 from another junkyard... since they all have the same shafts..
i would just start looking around in your junkyards.. and see what you can get for what price.. 9, 44, 60, 14b are all good choices.. and so is keeping the 20... i would weld the tubes on that sucker.. brace it.. and see what happens... so depending on what you can find near you... and what you want to do.. how much work you want to put into it.. and how much money you also want to dump into it.. just be patient.. and do a lot of looking...

i ran a 44/60 combo for a few years behind my 401/t18 combo just fine...
 
with that 40/60 combo tho you need to have the tires to clear the differential fro the D60, they are notorious for hanging low and would almost cause as much of a dragging problem as the 9".
 
thebluyak said:
http://www.sunrayengineering.com/main.html

CLick on why a nine? at the top, then click on ground clearence comparison and it will show the difference between a 60 and 9" and a dana 44
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Other considerations aside.
And there ARE some valid arguments in favor of the 9", I don't deny it.

But..
Please notice on the ground clearence measurements, they are comparing a radicaly shaved 9" housing to uncut Dana 44 & 60 housings.

They are also carefully avoiding any mention of the low driveshaft in a conventional 9".
 
yeah the 9" does have a very low pinion, but if you do have the loot you can go to a hi 9" and yeah i noticed it was a shaved 9". I just really like the ability to pull out the entire third member. but whats right for you might not have bewhats right for m
 
I think you're better off ditching the idea of the rockwells. Too much stuff to change, too expensive, and too hard to find parts. How about a D44/8.8"? The 8.8 has a better pinion angle than the 9", but it's not as strong. It'd be fine for 35's though.
 
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