Ballistic Joint Issues

burrellsjeep

burrellsjeep

Breaking Stuff...
Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Location
Morganton NC
I have ballistic joints on my front three link that keep getting loose no matter how much tightin them. I am getting side to side play in the joint. I tightn the lock ring and use the set screw its just like the race is crushing after use. I put them on in May of last year.

Here is the set up, Ballistics 2.63 Joint and a Creeper joint on the other end, Creeper joint is just as tight as ever.

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The one on the right is the one I have, Now they I have changed the races so I am thinking they have had issues with the races breaking down.
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Here are the new Races, see how they don't have the slots in the back like mine did
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I am not bashing Ballistics at all, Just seeing if anyone else has had similar issues, and being sure I am not doing something wrong.

I have contacted Ballistics via PM on the PBB to get a there take on it.

I think the new rebuild kit will solve my issues.
 
Contacted Ballistic Fab today (Via Phone) and there going to ship me new races, since mine torn up so fast, He stated they still offer old races for rigs that are mainly street and that if you use the solid races you will not have the issue I had. The ones with the ribs or slots in the back will not take ANY abuse, My rig is by no means extreme, so if your planning to use the Ballistics joints in a rig that sees some trail time, then be sure to get the solid races (They did not offer solid races when I got my joints).

Hats off to Ballistics for standing behind there product and making it right.
 
One of the problems I've seen with them beside the races not holding up is the fact that they will not take grease. amajeepman had the same problem with them wearing out. When he pulled the joints apart he found them to be almost completely dry even though he had regularly greased them. We cleaned one up and hit it with the grease gun and found that it immediately just squirted out around the lock ring and none actually went into the body of the joint at all. It doesn't really make sense to me why they wont take any because when you fill them its should be going in around the ball and filling up cause the zerk is right in the center but it doesn't it just comes right out the side. One pump and it all came right out.
 
Odd on the greasing I will have to see how mine do when I rebuild them I can't remember having issues when i did them last year. Looking at the Joints on there site, there is an option to upgrade to the solid races and a disclaimer stating: "Upgrade the Nylatron race from injection molded to billet (solid) for longer service life and greater impact resistance." "Limited LIFETIME warranty on solid nylatron races with one free replacement. Joints with 7/8", 3/4" and injection molded races carry no warranty."
 
I have the same issue. Pretty crappy paying $45 per joint and then finding out you need to pay another $12 per joint to upgrade to what they should have been to start with. You think there joints suck you should try out there "forged Ballistic bushings", what a joke. First 4 hours on the trail and they wore so bad I had axle wrap, on a 4 link.
You're lucky they upgraded you for free, I explained my problems with the joints and bushings and all they offered was for me to buy replacement races and bushing inserts.
I'm done with those clowns, spent a bundle with them and get no support when a problem popped up.
Good luck with the new races, I'm curious how they will work out.

BTW, I'll be tearing mine down soon to rebuild so I'll check out the greasing problem as well.
 
^^^LOL!

So what is the best joint on the market right now?
 
They're cheaper but I've had great luck with creepers joints from trail gear. The problem is getting them. They always seem to be out of stock when I need them.
 
MarsFab said:
They're cheaper but I've had great luck with creepers joints from trail gear. The problem is getting them. They always seem to be out of stock when I need them.
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Yep, Thats what I have on the other end of my links and they were used when I got them from Will (They were just used for mock up), They are just as tight as the day I put them on.

There beefy as hell.

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Compared to a 3/4 heim joint
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thanks i ordered some 3/4th ball heim joints and want to use them on my long arms and need to kno if they will be good or not, any ideas?
 
3/4 Heim IMO is small for a long arm thats going to take a beating, I used them on my Short Arms in the rear, But I worry about them and When I long arm the rear it will be with creeper type joints.

I were you I would build them with flex style joints or a larger heims, Heims are noisey and harsh as far as ride goes.
 
Yea I see a lot of koh buggies with 3/4 heims on their upper links. That's too small imo. Is do at least 7/8 with a 3/4 ball. On a lower link if you land on a rock it'll shear right off with a 3/4 shank.
 
I had issues with mine a while ago. my races were blocking half of the grease fitting hole. Not really sure why. I even got new races from Ballistic but still have the same problem. The set screw even digs into the race quite a bit. They work fine, but take very little grease. I have some starting to squeak, so its time to put some grease back in, if they will take any....

From that point on, I just used the Johnny Joint and they worked better.
 
burrellsjeep said:
3/4 Heim IMO is small for a long arm thats going to take a beating, I used them on my Short Arms in the rear, But I worry about them and When I long arm the rear it will be with creeper type joints.
I were you I would build them with flex style joints or a larger heims, Heims are noisey and harsh as far as ride goes.
Click to expand...
any sites with them?
 
mine started loosening up from day one but I always thought it was because I ran them at a 15 degree side angle to the thru bolt. So the new races fixes it huh?
 
What BS reason did they give on Pirate? I agree, wish I would have stuck with JJ's. Now I'm afraid I've thrown good money after bad by spending another $180 on new races.
 
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