Make a male mold of whatever size/shape you want the finished cover to be, and then apply a bunch of coats of the Plasti-Dip that you would use on tool handles (dip, not the spray). Then trim up the edges and pull off the mold. May have to experiment with stuff that Plasti-Dip doesn't stick to, like wax over paint or whatever. Don't need to add draft to the mold because Plasti-Dip is flexible.
I've seen people cut a block of wood, drill a hole in the end, put a dowel in the hole (for a wire exit boot), and sand/paint. Then plasti-dip.
3d Printed a mockup in PLA.
didn't quite fit, adjusted
Printed final in TPU. so it's flexible, nonconductive and can take the heat.
4 hrs later I have this
And done
It's a little loose, might add a dab of velcro to the battery to hold it in. But does the job. Plenty of room to add in more cables (the whole reason for the new battery terminal clamp)
I used an XL chunk of hose (balony cut)... notched to fit under the wires and circling the clamp. Was cut taller than clamp and did the job until battery was moved.
I'm not sure what you're referring to.
The problem is there are, and always will be things that go right to the battery. Like multiple good grounds to the body, engine, etc, or winch cables. That's the whole point of these terminals, they provide a better way to connect multiple things. with a solid connection and have the convenience of the cam-lock connector (every clamp I've ever had eventually has the tightening bolts corrode and become difficult to loosen or tighten).
At the very least, I'd have 3 positive connections - 1 for the starter, 1 for the winch, and 1 for "everything else" that goes to the first fuse distro block. At the moment I have 1 extra for a set of aftermarket lights.
If you have heavy enough gauge wires it quickly becomes very difficult to use a single "normal" terminal.
I see your point... but at the moment there's only 4, and 2 of them can't be combined. All that does is move the problem to a different place..
I mean yes it makes it slightly cleaner at the battery, but adds more wire and work... and still needs a cover that I'd have to custom make.
Once I get to where I have a ton of extra connections... maybe.
But note its the cam-lock mechanism that makes the terminal unable to use a typical boot, not the lugs.
My question is not just for the OP but in general. Why do you need to cover up a terminal? Make it right and right. Coat it so it doesn’t corrode and roll out. Why the need for a cover?? (Serious question as I’m lacking why)
My question is not just for the OP but in general. Why do you need to cover up a terminal? Make it right and right. Coat it so it doesn’t corrode and roll out. Why the need for a cover?? (Serious question as I’m lacking why)
The whole reason I like the cam lock is because I always end up with rust or corrosion making that bolt seized or break off, and get rounded from working it too much.
My question is not just for the OP but in general. Why do you need to cover up a terminal? Make it right and right. Coat it so it doesn’t corrode and roll out. Why the need for a cover?? (Serious question as I’m lacking why)
^^ this is one reason, being in an offroad truck. I've had it happen. Now, with a good battery tray and tie down it shouldn't... but for a few bucks its easy insurance.
Also on mine it's pretty close to the fender, if you've ever been working on one with exposed terminals ad had a wrench slip and cross them or bridge to the body, you know real quick why the covers are a good idea.
And, if nothing else, it just keeps the connection clean from all the crap that can get thrown around in there.
I'm less concerned about covering the ground side. In this case I did, just bc I could make a 2nd one for $0.10 and put it on in 15 seconds.
The whole reason I like the cam lock is because I always end up with rust or corrosion making that bolt seized or break off, and get rounded from working it too much.