BJ tips from Loganwayne

Jody Treadway

Croc wearing fool
Moderator
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Hendersonville, NC
When it comes to being efficiently completing a BJ project, there's one expert in the field; our own @Loganwayne. Dude knows how to get them done, quickly with good results.
That's why when it was time to replace the Ball joints in a JK in my shop, I thought I would share some time saving tips I've picked up over the years
I know some folks like to use the c clamp style ball joint press to remove and install them. On some applications, they are needed. However, on unit bearing solid axle Jeep (and Ram) vehicles, there's no need.
I won't cover getting the shafts out and knuckles off. So do your homework to get to this point.
First thing is to smack the sides of the knuckle at the upper and lower BJ. This will jar it a little to make removal a little easier. Then I grab my long barrel super duty Matco air hammer with a blunt tipped chisel. Place the chisel on one side of the upper and give it a few seconds of action upwards. You are trying to push the joint up. Go directly across the joint and repeat. This will walk the joint right out. This takes me no more than 20-30 seconds.
Next stick the air hammer and chisel down through the upper hole and push the lower joint down. Don't forget to smack the C a couple good times just like on the upper. Alternate on opposing sides of the lower and it'll come right out.
I removed both these joints in under a minute. No foolies.
Install in next post.
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Let's install the new ones
I use this exact technique and have for over 20 years. It works.
Take your new lower BJ, apply a bit if anti seize to the body. Set it in an appropriate size piece of tube. You want the tube to an inside diameter so the shoulder of the joint has the load applied. Center the joint in the hole, and smack upward with a hammer on the tube. It'll drive right in.
Take the upper joint, apply some anti seize again, set it in the hole. I drive them in with an old Tera aluminum bumpstop. It has a hole on it that lets the zerk pass through so it won't be damaged. Smack it with a hammer until seated. Just takes a few whacks.
Reinstall the knuckles, shafts and brakes and you're done.
The good BJ presses have their place no doubt. But for me, this works just fine and IMO is easier and just as safe (or safer) than cranking on the jack screw of a press, hoping it doesn't fly loose and injure you.
Hope this helps somebody out tacking the job themselves.
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Seems like you're the one with BJ talent not @Loganwayne

Believe me, @McCracken and I held a meeting to try and figure out an appropriate thread title including BJ and @Loganwayne. This was the best we could come up with.
Not my best work, but it gets the point across.
 
Nice write up. Any recommendations on a good air chisel? I have a 15 year old IR from Northern Tool that never seems to be able to get the job done.
 
I've never been able to alter size or depth (run what ya brung), but I've also never provided BJ service so I guess you guys are the experts.
 
Now that I can tackle a suckcesful BJ, I'm having trouble getting my shaft into the wife's rearend. I tried lube and worming the gears around but I think a hardened shaft might be needed.
 
Now that I can tackle a suckcesful BJ, I'm having trouble getting my shaft into the wife's rearend. I tried lube and worming the gears around but I think a hardened shaft might be needed.
Probably need a full floater. You can get those in and out without even touching anything else or jacking anything. Only thing that matters is the engagement at both ends of the shaft.
 
Probably need a full floater. You can get those in and out without even touching anything else or jacking anything. Only thing that matters is the engagement at both ends of the shaft.
I think the problem is this is a 9inch rear and my shaft is way to small for it. Maybe I can borrow @Jody Treadway shaft. He seems to be able to put a shaft in a customers rearend and get them to pay for it with a smile on their face.
 
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