RatLabGuy
You look like a monkey and smell like one too
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Location
- Churchville, MD
was waiting for @shawn to point this out
was waiting for @shawn to point this out
Nah, I know some good SEs, though. Vapor barrier is essential. Subgrade prep is next most important (no organics, compacted, stone base), followed by control joint cut time & locations. You'll see 5" slabs sometimes in lieu of 4", but rarely thicker than that unless there's forklift or heavy truck loading, etc. Rebar around the door openings, in the turndowns, etc are good. More than that is a bonus but probably unnecessary, especially if the control joints are done correctly.Do what this guy says. He's something of an expert.
In my shop I used 4" fiber, and just for shits and giggles I added WWM and a vapor barrier (that was more because mine is conditioned)
You can't go back and add it later so do it now
Monolithic if you intend to stick build on it. Otherwise if you Mexican carport the building no need
17' squares are what I remember being told for control joints.Nah, I know some good SEs, though. Vapor barrier is essential. Subgrade prep is next most important (no organics, compacted, stone base), followed by control joint cut time & locations. You'll see 5" slabs sometimes in lieu of 4", but rarely thicker than that unless there's forklift or heavy truck loading, etc. Rebar around the door openings, in the turndowns, etc are good. More than that is a bonus but probably unnecessary, especially if the control joints are done correctly.
2.5 x slab thickness x 1217' squares are what I remember being told for control joints.
This, my floor was sweating quite a bit today.
Don't feel bad, all smooth concrete in unconditioned buildings sweat today, vapor barrier or not. Vapor barriered concrete might not have sweated as much, but it was still slick!This, my floor was sweating quite a bit today.