So I’m wanting to do a little pre-fabbed shop from a place like Bunce Buildings or similar. I’m wanting 30x40, tried to contact a concrete guy for a rough estimate on getting a pad laid and he was asking questions about building material and permits, I didn’t have answers. So I called Bunce today was asking about permits and materials and such, they don’t release any building plans until you’ve purchased the building. Per my convo with stanly county zoning this morning, they won’t come out and assess location for a permit without having building plans…..and then I’m still in situation with concrete guy not getting further info from me so he’s not giving me any info back. Obviously this is my first time doing a project like this and I knew there would be hoops to jump through but what the hell?
Building permit questions
- Thread starter 93redzj
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2005
- Location
- Stanley, NC
Are you looking for pricing? Or some other type of information?
I was initially wanting a ball park price on getting the 30x40 concrete pad. The concrete guy wanted to know what building materials were and blue prints of building, I called Bunce this morning and they only release that info once building has been purchased, in order to keep contractors from copying the plans and not using them, or something like that.
But it seems like from the convos I’ve had this morning, I need building plans for permit, permit for concrete, and I have to purchase the building before plans are released. To me it just seems a little backwards that I’ve got to purchase the building first, then get the permits for concrete and building to be placed?
But it seems like from the convos I’ve had this morning, I need building plans for permit, permit for concrete, and I have to purchase the building before plans are released. To me it just seems a little backwards that I’ve got to purchase the building first, then get the permits for concrete and building to be placed?
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2005
- Location
- Stanley, NC
Last I heard, figure $10/sqft for concrete, and $25-50/sqft for the structure.
RatLabGuy
You look like a monkey and smell like one too
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Location
- Churchville, MD
You shouldn't need complete detailed plans in order for concrete guy to give you his price. You need to know the shape of the building, where any heavy loads are an such, but exactly how the metal studs are mount together for framing or whatever is irrelevant to him. Just explain to Bunce you need enough to satisfy the concrete guy and get you local permit.
Croatan_Kid
How's your hammer hangin'?
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2007
- Location
- New Bern
Per....mits? You mean you guys don't do it first and ask for forgiveness instead of permission? 
I feel you though. Sometimes it seems like a never ending circle jerk trying to get something done. You need to check on this, but have to have a permit first, but can until you get plans, but you need the permits before you get those. Sorta like getting a job that's entry level, but requires 3 years experience to be considered.
I feel you though. Sometimes it seems like a never ending circle jerk trying to get something done. You need to check on this, but have to have a permit first, but can until you get plans, but you need the permits before you get those. Sorta like getting a job that's entry level, but requires 3 years experience to be considered.
CasterTroy
Faster'N You
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Wallburg
That's so damn random down here though. one county requires a full set of floor plans and a site plan, other counties will grant a permit from a screen shot of google maps with a square drawn in sharpie with a dimension from one corner to a property line.
Makes no damn sense whatsoever
ManglerYJ
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Lexington, NC
My experience with the Davidson County inspection office is that they don't like it when a homeowner talks to them. They just like the comfort of their known contractors that know what to bring to who (palm-greasery) and when they have to explain something to you it makes their job excruciatingly difficult and they try to run you in circles.
Here's how backwards my situation was: I wanted to add an addition onto the front of my house to add a master bedroom/master bathroom plus a walk in closet and an office. I had to submit a plot plan (come to find out hand-drwaing it on graph paper was sufficient) showing the set-backs from the road. Needed "blueprints" (that's what they called them - a rough sketch with dimensions sufficed) and a sign-off from health department because I was adding a bedroom. Health department guy comes out and walkes every square foot of my yard and proceeds to tell me that none of my land will perk under current regs except for a patch of (as he called it) "magic soil" that is in the far corner of my property, up hill and past power lines. He proceeds to tell me that he has good news and bad news.
I get the bad news first. My septic system is only rated for 3 bedrooms and I cannot add a 4th bedroom as I wanted. Well. That sucks. For kicks, I ask him what the good news is. He says that I can add a "bonus room". As long as I change the blueprint to a bonus room and his and hers offices (not a closet), I should be able to get the plan approved. Just can't sell the house as a 4 BR. Since I don't plan on selling the house, it's really a non-issue.
By the way, concrete guy probably needs to know building materials to guage depth of concrete and anchoring locations, etc. I would figure that Bunce could get him that pretty easily.
RatLabGuy
You look like a monkey and smell like one too
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Location
- Churchville, MD
Site plan I can certainly see. But I'd think a basic footprint plan and knowing its pre-engineered would be fine. Even up here in commie-land thats enough (granted this is a pretty blue county)
kaiser715
Doing hard time
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2006
- Location
- 7, Pocket, NC
Only senseless thing I had to deal with on my shop was the building department required the property lines "in the area of the building" to be marked. Evidently, 200' away, thru the woods, without a line of sight, is still "in the area of the building". Had to pay a surveyor a couple hundred to flag the lines on 3 sides, "in the area of the building".
Yeah I tried explaining that to the Bunce rep, she insisted their plans are under lock and key until the building is paid for. I did try reaching out to a concrete guy they recommended and that had done work for their customers previously, but naturally he doesn’t have a voicemail set up on his phone
@Croatan_Kid i had seriously contemplated not messing with a permit, Bunce said they don’t require one to place the building, I’m not sure if I could get a concrete guy to lay a pad without one? I really don’t know how they work….but after all is said and done we would also like to create a separate driveway for the shop to the road, I’m not sure I’d having all this “new construction” with no permits would play in that process
Lurch830
messin' with sasquatch
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2007
- Location
- Wilton & Albemarle, NC
Not much to add, but my brother is building a house in Albemarle now and apparently the inspector is super-anal! The builder he's using as a GC said he builds all over NC, but hates Stanly County due to their weird rules. To top everything off, the house was supposed to be done in ~6 months and he's going on 7 months now and it was just wrapped in January...he's hoping to be moved in before Thanksgiving at this rate!
Well that’s super unfortunate. I finally got a concrete to answer/return a phone call, he’s gonna ride out tomorrow and see what we are working with here. Hoping I can get something going soon with all of it
Danger_Ranger
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2008
- Location
- Star NC
Heck yeah man, I really appreciate it. It was pretty sweet to see that stupid vine ultimately lose the war
After being given the run around by the concrete guy, I found another one to finally come out and check out the site. He quoted $5.50 sq ft on the concrete. Needless to say I’m much happier that it’s half the $10 sq ft I was thinking it might be
Average slab thickness? Footing depth? Mesh or Rebar? That number needs some teeth.
That was for a 4” slab and no footers….I’m probably gonna do a 6” and footers so his initial quote is gonna go up….other than that, I’m a complete noob at this so I don’t know the proper questions to ask the concrete guy to be sure I’m getting best bang for buck. I just know I want a 30x40 shop with a lift in so can stop rolling around in gravel to work on my stuff
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2005
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
6" slab is a waste of money unless you're bringing dump trucks in there. Spend that time prepping the subgrade.
CasterTroy
Faster'N You
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Wallburg
Why? Are you putting heavy equipment in there? Fiber reinforced 4" is fine and thicken it at post lift locations
CasterTroy
Faster'N You
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Wallburg
Do what this guy says. He's something of an expert.
In my shop I used 4" fiber, and just for shits and giggles I added WWM and a vapor barrier (that was more because mine is conditioned)
You can't go back and add it later so do it now
Monolithic if you intend to stick build on it. Otherwise if you Mexican carport the building no need
I’m not sure where the locations of the lift will be for sure. The concrete guy did suggest 4” slab and do a 2’x2’ square of 8” where the lift would be mounted. The reason I was thinking 6” slab was that’s what my brother in law did in Ohio with his shop although he built it for his semi but he also has a lift in it…..my thinking was just do 6” all the way around instead of trying to pin point where the lift would be and just add to that area. Although if that’s just completely over kill and highly unnecessary then I will definitely listen to the words of wisdom here and just do the 4”. I’m sure with a little figuring I can approximate where the lift will be
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2005
- Location
- Stanley, NC
I'm my opinion, instead of thickening the slab, you're better off adding extra wire mesh/rebar in the general area of the lift. 4" concrete can handle way more weight than a lift can impart, but you need the steel to convert the bending and tensile forces to a compressive force that is spread out over a much larger area.
When I did the slab extension for the addition to my house I did 16" OC #4 in a 5" slab, 12" wide footers with two #4 tied to the upper rebar in the bottom. Overkill yes but I don't like cracks and frankly it barely cost me any more than mesh.
sammi_davis
Sawzall Surgeon
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2005
- Location
- Eden N.C.