CAGE IN TJ W/ HARNESS SEATS

jeepercreature

jeepercreature

New Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2005
Location
New Bern, NC 28562
Not finished yet. Still have to mount harness brackets, install front passager seat and harness brackets and install stock seat belts.

It also has stock sliders. full floating cage, has a nice removable rear seat. Four bolts and the entire rear seat comes out giving me full space. It is pretty trick.

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Hey, thanks for the question

what I mean is it float and attaches no where on the tub or frame. So things like a flood would not touch it. You know how the sliders bolt right up to the frame well these dont.

As for seats mounting. It is actually one peice of steel that starts in the near the door has two 45 degree bends and then goes back to the tubing behind the console. Then Tabs were placed where the seats sliders would bolt up. Then the PRP seat had to have the tabs they send with it grinded off. The new tabs were welded flush so that the seat can be as low as possiable. I will try to get more pictures of this once I am done. Thanks JOhn
 
I think he was being sarcastic on the second post. By floating he means he has bushings at the point the seat cage meets the roll cage, that way shock is reduced between the cage and the seat as well as vibes. And it can be unbolted and removed easily.
 
Exactly, I will get more pictures later with the seats removed. You can see it a little better. I should say the cage does not mount to the bottom of the tub. It all floats and attaches to the sides.
 
jeepercreature said:
Exactly, I will get more pictures later with the seats removed. You can see it a little better. I should say the cage does not mount to the bottom of the tub. It all floats and attaches to the sides.
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PLEASE post pictures, because this makes NO sense. why would you attach the cage to the sides of the tub, rather than the floor, or better yet the frame? :confused:
 
not attached to the side of the tube. Attached to the side of the roll cage (the factory part) Also, attaching the cage to the frame is not a good idea. Every seen the picture on Pirate?
 
Did a search on Pirate but did not find it again. I will look in my cookies and try to find it. It basicly said that attaching the Cage to the Frame is not safe. Not sure how true it is but I think the picture in the thread kind of prove it. If you do a search on pirate for cages you should find it.
 
So if I am understanding you correctly the additions you made to the cage are tied into the stock cage only? Having seen a couple of stock cages fold and even bend on soft flops I am curious to see more pics and what you did to strengthen the stock cage. I would also like to see pics of inside the front to see how this all comes together. Not looking to flame, just curious.
 
It is not done yet. I think it will be finished this weekend. I will post a bunch of pictures at that time. The only thing stock on this cage is the large main hoop and the two that go doing. This cage would not bend or fold on a flop. Not to mention it will get a few gussets. Thanks JOhn
 
looks sweet man
 
I once thought that a solid 'safty cage' that included the seats, belts all inside etc.. that could seperate from the chassis would be better in our sport.. In some sports they are built that way... But, after a lot of thought about it and the what if type events... And looking at many pics of peoples 'crashes' i changed my opinon...

With the relitivly low speeds of our vehicles during a 'crash' (relitive term) If the cage (iwas allowed to seperate several things could happen....

If not built properly, the cage could seperate from the chassis and the shell could end up traveling further that if it was attached. The chassis could land on you in an unanticipated way.

The bigest thing that changed my opinon was the fact that most peoples 'crashes' are relitivly minor, and I don't want my cage/tub to seperate (or begin to) with a flop or minor roll..

With the cage NOT attached as being sugested the frame could seperate but do you think it would pull the steering colum through the floor/dash of the tub or will that keep you linked to the frame by that one spot?..

Now if we were traveling at high speeds where we could better anticipate the physiscs of the major components (to stay in motion) we could better assume it would be safer to have the shell seperate from the chassis...

Im not an expert so I'm curious as to why you guys think its better?
 
Just to point out, I was being sarcastic. I think it would be a stupid idea to make them 'separable', at least because of a crash, bolting it in is fine as long as it is attatched to the frame. I know in Nascar, the cage around the driver is the only part of the car that is supposed to stay together (in very bad wrecks), but like Yager said, in our sport it just doesn't make sense.
 
Mine is done but too dark to take pictures. mine will bolt threw the bolt down to the sliders. If it is welded to the frame I just see it as being more of a problem. I dont think it would be safer in any way. I also dont think with the minor wheeling. URE, tellico, DPG, Callente, etc. I would need to build a completely tied it cage. I think when you guys see the final pictures you will conclude it is Flop and minor rollover approved. I dont see this even tweeking on minor rolls or flops. I dont know but I guess we will see if I ever do flop or roll it. Thanks for the positive comments.
 
Some minor details here that have been left out...

The only stock cage left is the hoop behind the seats and 2 side pieces that attach to the rear fender well.

Everything else is 1 5/8" x .120" wall DOM.

Tube has been added above the rear fenders, connecting the rear most stock down tube and the main factor hoop. tube has been added alonge the floor, connecting the left and right sides of the factory main hoop. More tube has been added just inside the doors connecting the factory main hoop to the front dash supports. These dash supports are very similar to most of the other manufacturer's supports (PSC, etc.). The tube above the door opening has been replaced with 1 5/8" .120" wall DOM and attaches in very similar fashion as the factory piece. Of course, tube has been added to the front dash area, including a dash bar, a bar above the windshield, and 2 spreaders going back to the main hoop behind the seats.

All seats are attached to the cage as well as the 5 point harness for each seat. The driver's seat utilizes the factory slider on a modified PRP seat frame. This was done because John and his wife must be able to drive. Factory seat belts (with exception of the kiddie seat) have been re-installed for daily driving use.

The rocker guards I built were pre-drilled for the drain hole where the front portion of the cage can be tied into the frame when time and $$$ permits.

Removing this cage turned out to be a PITA, so we left it in place in anticipatioin that the body shop will be able to remove it for a nice paint job. Once removed, I would like to connect everything to the frame (if John wants).

I made the rear seat removeable just in case John's son doesn't go on a ride. This allows for removal for complete use of the rear area. The rear seat is mounted using YJ main eye poly bushings for easy removal when necessary. Studs and pins are easily used instead of bolts for faster removal times without worry of the attachment point coming loose.

95% of the cage was TIG welded. The dash support is laser cut from 1/4" thick steel and formed using a 175 ton Wysong brake.

Comments? Suggestions? Flames?
 
John, we will not weld it to the frame. We will use poly bushings just like the rear seat attachment. This allows some flex in the cage along with the stock body mounts. The body must be at the final height (body lift or no body lift) because its more work to tie it into the frame once you add or remove a body lift.

Rob
 
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