CJ5 Jevy

[Ricky B]

Looks like fun to get into!

Having to climb on the rear tire to get in your vehicle and then having a 5 foot blind spot in front of you is possibly one of the top five character building goals of life

On a more serious note yea it is already tippy and it is standing still, lol. But yea the drive line angles will have to be messed with and the steering will be an issue too, and the headers are gonna be even more in the way when i bolt up the down pipes to em but I don't forsee me goin over any rocks that will reach up that high, keep in mind this Jeep is mostly a mud bogger that will prob see Uwharrie but nothin serious in the rock depo.

I'm still torn on the Rockwell issue thou because Im so close to having this thing in driving status but if I decide to go with Rockwells it will be a while . . . however having a continualy snapping front axle won't be fun either . . . but then again being mostly a mud bogger I can prob get away with it . . . but with rockwells I could run a ridiculously huger tire than 44 If I wanted to . . . but its gonna cost so much more . . .


You see my dilema

 

[shawn]

OR, you could just put these springs back on it and wheel it.

 

[Ricky B]

I guess but that wouldn't solve the axle problem and I had no room for flex with that amount of lift even with the fenders all cut out, I'm saving those springs for the Samurai Buildup.

 

[thebluyak]

to many cars, not enough brain cells to sort out all the parts

 

[Down&Dirty]

If this is going to be a mud bogger, why build in flex? All the mud bogs I have been to require axle drop not compression. They are a few seconds of hard throttle and hours of cleaning. For a bogger I would lower it to get it stable. No one wants to roll in a big pit of mud. It does look huge though. Keep us posted.

 

[chuckwhut]

take the headers off and flip em over...then cut holes in the hood and run the exhaust out up top! keeps it off the rocks and out of the mud.
how much trouble would it be to just run it as is while saving up for your rockwells, then put them on later...or if you break something

 

[thebluyak]

thats a good idea chuck, run the 14 bolt and whatever other axle u have, cant remember, and see if you would even need to go to rockwells. In theory what do you have to lose?

 

[Ricky B]

I know Shane's gonna call me a wimp but I finnaly decided today to run what I have for now (14 Bolt & heavily Modified Waggy 44) and maybe get Rockwells down the road. Figure with 44" tall tires and a locked rear I can run 2WD until I get stuck and absolutly have to engage the front axle, lol

More progress pics below, did the SYE on the Tcase and other stuff. Thing is finnaly starting to come together!!!!

** Fact of the day: When your tire comes to the hood of a felow SUV then you are considered "high" in character. **

 

[86m1008beater]

I know Shane's gonna call me a wimp but I finnaly decided today to run what I have for now (14 Bolt & heavily Modified Waggy 44) and maybe get Rockwells down the road. Figure with 44" tall tires and a locked rear I can run 2WD until I get stuck and absolutly have to engage the front axle, lol

lol, you're not gonna get very far in 2WD with those bald gumbo mudders. When you get stuck and have to engage 4WD you're likely to break parts in that dana 44 if you have a locker up front.. if it's open, one more bald gumbo mudder spinning isn't going to help much. Besides, you're probably going to need some high dollar driveshafts/steering for that thing so why not wait and put some more thought into this and do it right the first time. Save up for some rockwells or full width 1 tons and sell those axles/tires. I think I read you only had 4:10's in those. I wouldn't be happy with that gearset if I was running 38's let alone 44's.

 

[Rich]

OR, you could just put these springs back on it and wheel it.

I'm with him...

Put some bumpstops on it to keep the rear tires out of the body and just drive the damn thing.

If you just want a big tall beach-boy jeep than just say so.. otherwise you could take those springs, add another long leaf for a *little* lift, and be good to go. No $1000 driveshafts, expensive steering, blah blah blah. 38.5" boggers, and run it.

 

[jeepercreature]

I know Shane's gonna call me a wimp but I finnaly decided today to run what I have for now (14 Bolt & heavily Modified Waggy 44) and maybe get Rockwells down the road. Figure with 44" tall tires and a locked rear I can run 2WD until I get stuck and absolutly have to engage the front axle, lol

lol, you're not gonna get very far in 2WD with those bald gumbo mudders. When you get stuck and have to engage 4WD you're likely to break parts in that dana 44 if you have a locker up front.. if it's open, one more bald gumbo mudder spinning isn't going to help much. Besides, you're probably going to need some high dollar driveshafts/steering for that thing so why not wait and put some more thought into this and do it right the first time. Save up for some rockwells or full width 1 tons and sell those axles/tires. I think I read you only had 4:10's in those. I wouldn't be happy with that gearset if I was running 38's let alone 44's.

x2
4.10s with 44s.....can you say tractor. not going to work. the whole 2wd thing wont work either. it tears everything up when you do that.

 

[Ricky B]

Well here's the deal, I already have the steering stuff the only thing I'd have to make is a new draglink and I'm def planning on regearing down the road and then d-shafts which I don't think they'd cost 1000, the front d-shaft will prob end up being a square tube one and the rear is only gonna be just over 2 feet long so they shouldn't cost that much I don't think cause I'm not gonna buy anything super fancy. Anyway I was thinking the same thing earlier about holding off and doing the driveshafts etc. until after I get Rockwells but then I seriously priced out Rockwells and they are gonna end up costing me like $1600 then I still have to get wheels and tires (which when you talk tires that size iv'e seen prices of $650 for one used tire) plus there are of course always hidden fee's etc. etc. . . so I figure just run what I have since the Jeep isn't the hardcore offroader anyway, thats what the samurai is gonna be for. The jeep is just gonna be for sinkin in swamps and pretend wheelin at Uwharrie and gawking at the huge size of it. Plus if i get rockwells and huge ag tires I'll never be able to drive the thing on the road. At least I still have a few months b4 I have to make my final decision since I am almost broke again.

 

[fryedaddy]

I'd atleast look for a front axle. D44 on 44's ?

 

[thebluyak]

if he isnt going to try to wheel it it will be fine with a 44 on a d44. its when he puts it in 4wd and trys to wheel it will snap shafts. So if your trying to just drive it just cause your so excited (as would I also be) then you should be ok driving around the block.

 

[TheGeneral]

You'd be surprised how long a front 44 can hold up on mud truck. Later on when it does break id go with a 60 front instead of Rocks.

 

[Rich]

Well here's the deal, I already have the steering stuff the only thing I'd have to make is a new draglink

Really.. with all that lift, you think a conventional steering setup is going to work?

d-shafts which I don't think they'd cost 1000, the front d-shaft will prob end up being a square tube one and the rear is only gonna be just over 2 feet long so they shouldn't cost that much I don't think cause I'm not gonna buy anything super fancy.

Who said anything about super fancy being the reason for the cost? IT'S YOUR ANGLES that require the expensive, clearanced high-angle drivelines. Oh, but then those really big joints won't bolt to your t-case or axles, requiring new flanges..

Square shaft, on an aluminum cased NP231? yeah, let us know how long that lasts.

What u-joint do you propose running on the end of that square shaft to be able to run at those angles?

The jeep is just gonna be for ...gawking at the huge size of it.

Reference "beach boy" comment.

Plus if i get rockwells... I'll never be able to drive the thing on the road.

With the way you're talking about building this thing, you won't be able to drive it down the road anyway, no matter WHAT axles you put under it.

 

[Ricky B]

Well the only steep angle on the driveshafts will be at the rear Transfer case side, all the other angles won't be that crazy since the rear will be clocked up and the front D shaft will be so frikin long there isn't too much of an angle. The reason I mentioned square Driveshaft on the front is cause other people advised me to go with that because its cheaper and the front D shaft doesnt have to be balanced so that was just what I heard from other poeple. I don't understand why u say a long draglink won't work because I see it in pics of trucks in 4 wheeler and petersons all the time??? But like I said it will be a while b4 i have to make any of those decisions anyway because I'm bout out of $$ again

 

[fryedaddy]

Rick,

I would check into it measure the driveshaft's and find the angles on each end. I would bet they may not look big to you but they are. Universal joints don't have as much play as a CV joint. With the look of the pictures you have posted your going to have some sharp angles. The more of a bind " Angle" you put a driveshaft in the weaker it will be in my opinion.

 

[Rich]

Yeah, because the trucks in petersons and 4-wheeler are always built right...

square DS's are heavy, and unbalanced, yes, fine, but your front output on that 231 isn't all that strong, and won't like a 45 lb unbalanced driveline swinging around.

You're gonna rotate your pinion on the rear that far up? That outta burn up the pinion bearing in no time! cool.

my old front DS was 48" long, and I needed to clearance the NP205's front 1310 joint to not bind under droop, and my front pinion is rotated up (slightly helping the angle at the t-case). Measure, measure, measure. How long is your front DS, and at what angle?

Hell with it.. have fun. build it, then when it breaks, I just hope no one else is injured.

Despite how it may appear, I'm not TRYING to be an ***... but there's alot more thought that needs to go into this thing..

 

[thebluyak]

Despite how it may appear, I'm not TRYING to be an ***... but there's alot more thought that needs to go into this thing..

That damn word filter is obviously still on....but Rich what degree do you feel that a pinion is rotatted to far up? What is a safe angle to run a pinion and how would you even find out unless trail and error?

 

[Rich]

trial & error on other people's vehicles is my best research..

It's axle-specific based off pinion height, and how well the pinion gets lubed through the usual methods...

And of course, a 7.17 gearset is going to be turning alot faster than a 4.10 gearset...

So, my definitive answer is, I don't have one.

 

[Ricky B]

Ok gotcha, on the front square D shaft thing, measured the driveshaft angles today at the rear of the T-case will be roughly 35 deg. and front at the t-Case will be rougly 15 deg. rear D shaft will be just over 2 feet long and front will be bout 46". As far as rotating the rear axle up to match thats just what I've seen everyone else do with theirs. I realized today I'm gonna have to rotate up the front a little to but like almost not much at all just enough to be a pain in the ass .

 

[fryedaddy]

Rick,
I think most driveshafts have a maximum angle of about 15 degrees (correct me if i'm wrong). That means you will have no room for travel except up - on the front. The rear will require some type of special drive shaft and the front if you are going to wheel it. Again Rich is right your going to have custom driveshafts and I haven't seen many that are strong and go over 40 degrees. I would only guess one for the rear will be $. Your probably going to have $1,000 on driveshafts atleast. Many people have rotated their front and rear axles to compensate. On the rear you can tilt it slightly higher than the front but not enough to use standard drive shafts.
Plus this thing won't be road worthly if you rotate the front axle up to much. Heck it's not going to be road worthy now so rotate these things up as high as you want drill a small hole in the pumpkin dump as much gear oil in tap the hole and run a bolt into it can't do any worse than trying to run standard driveshafts.

 

[shawn]

Ok gotcha, on the front square D shaft thing, measured the driveshaft angles today at the rear of the T-case will be roughly 35 deg. and front at the t-Case will be rougly 15 deg. rear D shaft will be just over 2 feet long and front will be bout 46".

In other words, you're fawked. It'll take a $$$ ds to make that rear angle, something along the lines of that 42* joint that Jess sells. If the front is actually 15* static, you can probably get by with a modified 1350CV. Either way, you're looking at minimum $400 for the front, plus $200 in yokes, then the same in the back, plus maybe $200 extra for whatever crazy joint it's going to take to come off the tcase.

Budget $1500 for starters.

 

[cumminsdzl]

In other words, you're fawked. It'll take a $$$ ds to make that rear angle, something along the lines of that 42* joint that Jess sells. If the front is actually 15* static, you can probably get by with a modified 1350CV. Either way, you're looking at minimum $400 for the front, plus $200 in yokes, then the same in the back, plus maybe $200 extra for whatever crazy joint it's going to take to come off the tcase.

Budget $1500 for starters.

Or you could just put the other springs back on, and have a better wheeling, better driving, cheaper, and all around easier to dial in vehicle than you have now.