Creek Crossing solution

CasterTroy

CasterTroy

Faster'N You
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Wallburg
I need to get a dumptruck loaded with gravel, as well as a concrete truck (eventually) across this creek. Currently it has a metal corrugated tube with lip flanges on the ends. I haven't taken exact measurements of radius nor length, but pics below.

"My Thoughts" are grade it a flat, then forming across it for a 6" pad with rebar and WWM letting the excess concrete spill under the side forms down around the tube to the water. Then stacking rip/rap up the overpour like I intend too for the creek banks.

What would YOU do?

Replace entirely with concrete tube and widen overall?

@rodney eppes would you cross this (as-is) on a dry day with a load of crusher run?

20171001_174125.jpg


See the tree on the "bridge"? That's the tree to the left in the pic below. Gotta cut that down

20171001_174037.jpg
 
At first I thought this was a "paint yourself across the canyon" Pirate knockoff nonsense. I actually have some good ones in photobucket.
Yeah something like concrete/rebar fan fold like layer with the concrete segments runnung parallel with the pipe would be the ticket.
 
anvilrubi said:
I’m not going to tell anybody what to do, but I’d do it.
Click to expand...

@rodney eppes please take this as verification that "it's perfectly fine and he assumes all liability" and bring me 8 loads of Crusher run :huggy:
 
^thats what im thinking I cross worse than that sometimes when I have too
 
Is this the new CasterTroy plantation?
 
20171005_084500.jpg
Here's my idea, if it sucks, it sucks. But with this there would be no need to grade it flat, you would come out even with cost vs building a solid form, but you would gain flexibility from the rebar webbing and because of the voids between each segment it would over time be strengthened by the native plantlife growing between it and could potentially save it if that creek ever got to flood stage. Plus, if it did, it's practically impossible for water to lift it. The whole structure could then be leveled out under filldirt or rock/dirt combination. I've never seen this in person before and came up with it in about 10 seconds. On a side note, I would love to come give you a hand with whatever you decide to do. Ask @ckruzer what $20 in gas money and cold beer can yeild.
 
Looks fine to me especially if the driver had a little speed as others mentioned. For extra support you could lay a 2x8 along the bottom and top of inside of pipe with 6x6 pillars every 3-4'. Kind of like an I-beam support that could be removed or left in there...

Beautiful land you have there.
 
Try it. Worst case scenario the dump truck flips into the creek and explodes, killing a bus load of nuns. Most likely it just drives across. Obviously the dirt has been there a while and is well settled judging by the tree.
 
jeepinmatt said:
the dump truck flips into the creek and explodes, killing a bus load of nuns.
Click to expand...

That's the part that concerns me


"The Nuns?"

No

"The dump truck flipping?"

No

"The explodes part?"

YES!!! It's so quiet out there I'd HATE to disturb the wildlife
 
CasterTroy said:
So concrete "grade beams" with exposed rebar linking them?
Click to expand...
Yes. Can be poured in place with rebar form constructed on site. 6 20' sticks of 3/4" galvanized rebar and however much you would need in each beam. If each grade beam was say 1'x1'x 12', x8 beams you'd have around 100 cubic feet of concrete. And probably a dumb idea but I have those occasionally.
 
I don't have experience in pouring concrete in this fashion but I do in inspecting structural and architecture wall and floor panels before and after pouring. I would suggest running rebar the entire length of the bridge with cross bars every 2 to 3 feet. I would place the bars between two layers of 4x4 wire mesh. The mesh will help keep it together and from cracking. The bottom layer should be about 1 to 2 inches off of the ground, the top layer should be about 1-2 inches under the driving surface and the same from the edges. Use tie wire to securing everything in place so the bars dont shift when the concrete is poured. This might be over kill for that but that is what I'm use to seeing minus the stressing cables usually in wall panels and floor panels but the rebar going long ways replaces those. I might suggest where there is ground benethe the slab driving bars in to the ground just to keep the pad from shifting along with the concrete going around the culvert.

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Put me in the 'just drive over it" group too. I've certainly driven fire engines over worse looking stuff.

Duane
 
I thought it was crush-n-run or crush and run...


Also, I have a corrugated plastic pipe under my other driveway. It's had a bunch of loaded tandem axle dump trailers, a bulldozer, 2 excavators, and a handful of dump trucks run across it right after it was put down. I'm pretty sure that will be fine.
 
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