Dakota SAS exo-cage w/custom bed

[Croatan_Kid]

If I were you, I'd score an AAM Dodge rear axle to use. That way you get discs and a parking brake. You could use Chevy 2500HD brakes up front on the Ford Dana 60 and make it a slide on rotor setup very easily and swap in matching metric lug studs while you're at it. I'd guess you probably already have the axles, but using factory stuff whenever possible makes like a helluva lot easier. Especially when you want rear discs with parking brakes. The El Dorado calipers aren't worth the hassle at all.

Now, when you say 5.9...are we talking about a 360 or a Cummins? If it's a diesel, you DEFINITELY don't want 5.38s. 4.56s would be a gracious plenty. Torque will take care of the rest.

Assuming the overdrive gear is somewhere around .73:1 and the tires measure right at 40", at 80mph you'll be turning right at 2650 rpm. Still on the high side for a gas motor, but it'd be tolerable.

 

[bhplumber]

If I were you, I'd score an AAM Dodge real axle to use. That way you get discs and a parking brake. You could use Chevy 2500HD brakes up front on the Ford Dana 60 and make it a slide on rotor setup very easily and swap in matching metric lug studs while you're at it. I'd guess you probably already have the axles, but using factory stuff whenever possible makes like a helluva lot easier. Especially when you want rear discs with parking brakes. The El Dorado calipers aren't worth the hassle at all.

Now, when you say 5.9...are we talking about a 360 or a Cummins? If it's a diesel, you DEFINITELY don't want 5.38s. 4.56s would be a gracious plenty. Torque will take care of the rest.

Assuming the overdrive gear is somewhere around .73:1 and the tires measure right at 40", at 80mph you'll be turning right at 2650 rpm. Still on the high side for a gas motor, but it'd be tolerable.

I do have the axles. The KP 60 already has discs up front. My sterling is an 89 so it is 8 on 6.5 pattern. I could do a GM caliper and rotor kit for cheap but would like to have an ebrake. My truck is an auto so ebrake isn't a must but Im trying to do everything right the first time.

I have the 5.9 360 CI gas. Cummins would be nice tho. I came up with 2650 rpms at 75 with 5:38's and 2000 ish with 5:13's, This is why I opted for the 5:38's.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

This was what I was talking about. It's basically a factory 14 bolt that Dodge and GM used. Factory rear discs and internal parking brake. It more than likely has a tone ring inside it for your speed sensor too.

 

[sqrl$$]

Sqrl$$s,
Can you guide me in the right direction. I have an 03 QC 5.9 build project I pretty much stealing most of your design. This is what I have and the direction Im going.
89 HP dana 60 front 5:38 elocker
89 Sterling 10.25 5:38 grizzly locker
40" Pro Comp MT2's on 17" wheels

Goal:
Interstate worthy (be able to have wife drive comfortably @ 80 MPH on the Interstate)
3 link FOA coil over front
high steer with hyro assist steering
forward pitman arm steering box (astro van, super duty, not sure yet)
rear disc with ebrake
shackle flip, possibly chevy rears springs
rear traction bar
Keep as low as possible with enough up travel to be comfortable on the road.


Questions:
How do the eldorado rear disc calipers work, are they worth the 600.00
should I run 12 or 14" coil overs
would you still recommend 300/400 coils on the FOA's
what do you think of Jonny joints vs Barnes endure joints
Did you have to cut your outters off to get correct pinion angle and caster
Did you end up doing only 1 bold for your rear cross member on the doubler tcase

I have read a TON and I mean a TON of Dakota builds and yours seems to fit what I have in mind for a finish product. I would be very thankful for any advise you have.

Elder ado calipers for the e brake was a joke with 40" tires. I wouldn't waste my money
I ran 14" coil overs and I was happy with height and suspension travel.
300/400 seemed right because that 4 door is such a heavy cow.
Can't comment on the other joints, but had no issues with the Johnny joints other than the expense lol!
Did not have to cut outers, but I built it primarily for off-road. If I were planning to drive it much, I simply adjusted my upper to get the correct pinion angle for the best drive, but I mostly kept it turned up to get the best driveshaft angle to lessen the strain on the joints.
I did 2 bolts in the doubler to begin with, but cracked the first case because it didn't allow for the torquing of the driveline so I dropped back down to 1 and didn't have any additional problems.

You definitely need front sway bars , and rear wouldn't be a bad idea either if you plan to street it much. I miss her a lot and hate I ever sold it, but sometimes you have to do what you have to do. My only other suggestion would be to go ahead and 4 link the rear. I killed springs, broke blocks and broke traction bars due to the leverage those 40's put on everything along with my lead foot. Hope this helps. If you have more questions let me know.

 

[bhplumber]

1. Sqrl$$, did you upgrade your brake master cylinder, what year/model did you use it you did. I got my truck on the road but the brake pedal is soft. I'm running 60/10.25 With gm rear discs.

 

[sqrl$$]

No I used the factory Dakota master cylinder. I had gym single piston disc brakes on the rear

 

[Ekl99]

What is the material used for the EXO Cage? How did you bend the material? Looks awesome want to do the same to my 2002 Dodge Dakota