Dana 30 Question?

Deepblu505

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2017
Location
Fayetteville, NC
What do the numbers Stamp on the cover of my Dana 30 Front Diff mean? or where would I go to find out?
 
Code for gear ratio and expected explosion date.

@GotWood I ran a high pinion D30 in the front of my old YJ with 4.56s, trussed housing and C's, lock-rite, Nitro chromos and 300M u-joints.. on 35s and 36s with the gear reduction of a 4.3 Atlas behind a 4.0 liter and never blew it up. I did however blow up rear Dana 44 shafts and break driveshaft u-joints. The high pinion 30s really aren't that weak. That one was built to the point where it would've blown a pinion before anything else. I was pretty hard on it. It already had the gears and locker in it when I got the jeep. The cost of the 300M joints and chromo shafts were less than I could've built some other front end for. I realize this will not be everyone's predicament, but nonetheless wanted to share that they aren't as weak as everyone is led to believe.
 
I've tore up the little U-joints in my CJ LPD30, replaced with Superior shafts and big ujoints, all good. It was trussed, widetrack.

Broke the plug welds in a HPD30 tube to center section, think that did a number on the ring/pinion too. ECORS carnage, lots of throttle and sudden deceleration due to bad tree placement. I always ran the big joint shafts with Spicers, only broke a few of those joints.
 
@GotWood I ran a high pinion D30 in the front of my old YJ with 4.56s, trussed housing and C's, lock-rite, Nitro chromos and 300M u-joints.. on 35s and 36s with the gear reduction of a 4.3 Atlas behind a 4.0 liter and never blew it up. I did however blow up rear Dana 44 shafts and break driveshaft u-joints. The high pinion 30s really aren't that weak. That one was built to the point where it would've blown a pinion before anything else. I was pretty hard on it. It already had the gears and locker in it when I got the jeep. The cost of the 300M joints and chromo shafts were less than I could've built some other front end for. I realize this will not be everyone's predicament, but nonetheless wanted to share that they aren't as weak as everyone is led to believe.
I blew up one on a 4cyl yj on 33's. Broke the passenger C off of the tube. Bent 3+ trussed d30 with the ECORS crowd.

The main point of my post was to be a smart ass.
 
I'll also mention I had a non-vac disconnect housing in my jeep; I'm quite sure that made a difference in housing strength.
 
What do the numbers Stamp on the cover of my Dana 30 Front Diff mean? or where would I go to find out?

It means you have have put enough work into your dana 30 and stop there before you do something stupid and bling it out :D

Being said I have spent hours beefing mine up and care for it like a first born because everything about a dana 30 housing spells trouble :flipoff2:


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
A stock Dana 30 will withstand anything
 

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^Yeah I've seen plenty of balljoints fail on pavement from poor maintenance
 
That aint the housing, that is a busted stock shaft, bent ear on shaft pushed ball joints apart.

Yup. I'd bet dollars to donuts it was a cheap, parts-house u-joint that did it. Shitty u-joint breaks, binds up the axle ears, and pulls the ball joints out of the bores. I've seen it a dozen times.
 
I saw that happen at the bottom of Guard rail on a YJ years ago. That was a bitch to get out. I'm keeping my 30 unless I upgrade to tons. I usually take care of my stuff and have wheeled a ton with one.
 
The level of sarcasm/smartass in this thread is definitely living up to my expectations! We just need some tenderhearted aarp member to make a serious comment, then get all butthurt and start calling us bullies to archive this into nc4x4 20page+ fame
 
The level of sarcasm/smartass in this thread is definitely living up to my expectations! We just need some tenderhearted aarp member to make a serious comment, then get all butthurt and start calling us bullies to archive this into nc4x4 20page+ fame

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